BenzGuy72

ok, i am trying to check my rod bearings today. my engine has been making a knocking sound, and i'm pretty sure it's a rod bearing, heard the noise on too many other engines with bad rod bearings. my question is how the heck do i get the stupid oil pan off?? i don't want to remove the engine if at all possible. i've undone the bolts for the cross member, but it won't come down. i have the engine supported by my engine hoist. what am i doing wrong, i can't find anything about this in my haynes manual. thanks, matt

BenzGuy72

i realize that i will need to remove the engine if i have to replace the crank, but i want to check everything first and see how bad the damage is, as soon as i started hearing the noise, i stopped driving it. so hopefully there isn't any damage to the crank, but that's one thing i want to check.

M758

I assumed you removed the steering rack and engine mounts as well?

BenzGuy72

ok, one question i have, is how do i remove the exhaust side engine mount?? do i have to remove the exhaust manifold?? also, i have the steering rack unbolted from the cross member. but do i have to undo the power steering lines?? or can i just move it away from the cross member. and with the a-arms, how do you get the cross member out with those in the way? will they move over it? thanks for the help.
Matt

M758

You need to remove the a-arm bolt that connects it to the cross memeber. If there is not enough room then you may also need to remove he rear a-arm mount.

You should be able to remove the engine mounts form the cross member, but leave them on the engine supports. You should not remove the headers. The mount should be attached to the cross member with a stud on the mount going through a hole in the cross member. Just remove the nut and this should free up.

If you have enough clearance you can leave the PS lines on the rack.

BenzGuy72

i removed the nuts on my cross member, but it doesn't look like the engine is free. i think i might read my manual about removing the steering rack and tackle it tonight. i really want to get it fixed by this weekend. but i gotta see what is bad so i can order the parts and get them by friday... that's my day off which i was going to spend all day working on my car. i can't remove the rear a-arm bolts b/c that's where the jack stands are at. thanks, matt

BenzGuy72

also, o have an 84, so it's the early model. so i have the steel a-arms, not alum.

M758

You need to remove the steering rack form the crossmember to get it to move. You will also need to remove the rear block on the a-arms as well. If your jack stands are there then you will need to move them.

You may need to remove the driver's side engine mount to get enough free room to pull the cross member.

Cass944

sorry Matt, Looks like its turning out to be more work that you thought...

good luck buddy.

BenzGuy72

i have the mount on the drivers side removed... man, wasn't wanting to move my jack stands, ah well, i guess i'll be pretty busy tonight.

thanks,

Matt

also, on a side note, where can i get a timing belt and a balance shaft belt inexpensively??

BenzGuy72

also, one other question. if i need to remove the engine, do i have to remove the transmission?? i sure hope not. thanks,
Matt

M758

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by BenzGuy72:
<strong>also, one other question. if i need to remove the engine, do i have to remove the transmission?? i sure hope not. thanks,
Matt</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">No! Just disconnect everthing and then pull it fwd. Once it clears the shaft on the torque tube lower to the ground.

You will probably want to pull the radiator to create more clearance.

Of course pulling the transmission is only a 2-3 hr job. Not a bid deal.

BenzGuy72

i did the clutch, i had to remove the transmission... not a fun job, i don't want to do a clutch again. i think if i have to replace my clutch again, i might remove the engine to do it, it might be easier.

M758

Naw,,
There is too much wires, and vacuum lines attached to the engine that make it more of a paint to remove than the tranny to get to the clutch.