Danno

Anyone tried out Huntley's new CARBON-FIBRE torque-tube?

Paul C 944

SKI
IF YOU STILL HAVE THE KYB S I WOULD BE INTERESTED.WILL THEY FIT A 85.5 NON TURBO?
DO YOU HAVE FRONT AND REAR?

Brian Wilson

Sorry to dig this back up, but I'm having some nice sounds out of mine and was thinking about doing it. Anyone else tried it or had someone else do it or located the parts???

Thanks

pfd944

Does anyone know who sells 6006ZB C4 Bearings in the US? Can someone identify what 6006ZB C4 means?

Thanks

paul

Matt Sheppard

I've got a whirring noise at shutdown and bad vibrations at 3200 RPM. I have a spre torque tube in my '83 NA parts car. Are all torque tubes created equal in 944's? Will it go just dandy into my '86 turbo? Can I pull it out w/out droping the rear torsion housing?

Thom

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Matt Sheppard:
<strong>Are all torque tubes created equal in 944's?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">I would like to know as well.
I heard a complete new unit costs around $1000 by Porsche, but could not tell for which model (if ever there are different kinds of torque tubes).

Thanks in advance ! <img border="0" alt="[bigbye]" title="" src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" />

Martin

The later cars had different ears on the outside of the tubes, this is for crash protection only, I would assume they are still interchangable (I haven't heard that they are not).
I tried locally to track down some more of these bearings, I was quoted about US 40$ per bearing, the nearest they could apparently be found was in Australia, at this price (for !@#$ing bearings?) I didn't order any.
One thing to note, before condeming any tube due to noise try running the engine with the transmission coupler disconnected, most of the noise comes from the transmission and resonates through the tube, for me new bearings weren't that much quieter but then mine was not worn out, I just thought I would do it while I had it apart (for a broken diff, no less)

Melchior

Here is a torque tube removal procedure:
posted 07-19-2002 12:24 I changed mine a while back . Here are a series of e mails I wrote with to help someone else.I just cut and pasted them . Mine vibrated all the time . I tried motor mounts and that helped a little bit . If you want to check it out , just take your starter off and look inside the opening at the rubber disk . I was told that they usually last about ten years or so . The disk rots out and cracks. I found out that when they break apart the chunks of rubber fly around in the bell housing and trash the ignition sensors . I was lucky as mine are still OK . The trans isn't too bad to get out . When you remove the shifter cable look for the lock wire that holds it in place before you force it loose. The upper trans mount is held on with two allen head bolts in a horizontal position directly on top of the trans. The speed sensor is above the drivers side axle on the top of the trans . It is just a normal push on rectangular connector like on the rest of the car . Set your floor jack in about the middle , slightly towards the rear of the trans for dropping it down . The rearmost cooler line is a real pain. I didn't have a short enough wrench so I had to lower the trans about five inches before I could get the line off and finish dropping the trans. The cooler lines also need to be disconnected at the rear of the engine . You will find no room to work . I suggest buying a set of stubby metric wrenches for removing the cooler lines . So far I did not have to remove the shifter inside the car , but you do have to take the cables off the engine so the torque tube can slide back . You need to remove the exhaust from the manifold back . Make sure you disconnect the O2 sensor . On the top of the front bell housing are the ignition sensors , you need to take them out also . Make sure you mark them first because they need to go back in the original holes. Right near these sensors are two bolts , one has a 13mm head and the other a 12 mm head . They look like they go through the bell housing into the block. Don't take them out . I did and now I will have to reset the depth of the sensors . I have no idea how to do that yet , but I'm going to learn . On the front of the torque tube the damper is held on with a pinch bolt . You can get to it through the opening in the bell housing . A guy by the name of Mick just e-mailed me that my problem is the there is a clip on the end of the drive shaft that holds the damper on . I will need to remove the bell housing and torque tube as a unit and break the clip .I hope I have helped you out . I know there isn't much information out there on how to change this thing . Check the cooler lines on top of the torque tube. You can disconnect them up front .It is a PITA . In order to move the torque tube the whole way back you will need to rotate it upside down.Did you disconnect the front coupler ? Did you unbolt the flex disc from the engine ? You have to do this before you canremove the bell housing and torque tube . The bell housing and flex disc come off in one piece . There is a small metal clip that is on the end of the drive shaft inside the torque tube . This clip holds the flex disc to the drive shaft .You can break this off once you have the whole assembly out. the torque tube and bell housing have to come back in one piece. The clip holds the flex disc to the drive shaft which is pressed into the torque tube bearingsOnce you remove the clip ( and not re install it ) you can re assemble the bell housing and torque tube to the engine separately Shawn87 944 naAutomatic Posts: 14 | From: western PA | Registered: Jun 2002 | IP: Logged

billybones User Rennlist MemberUser # 760 posted 07-19-2002 12:58 I just did my clutch not sure of the differences. but will state what I found.. top bolts I used a combination wrench used the box end on the bolt head.. and then stuck a box end on the open end of the wrench on the bolt for leverage like a breaker bar.. both wrenches standard offset. they slip in nicley between the firewall and engine. did not have to remove anything.. Torque tube, has a front and rear set of hooks at the back just before and after a brace that is just infront of the trany hollow in the rear..with the torque tube in normal position pull back about an inch or so.. rotate 90 degrees all the while doing this you must keep putting things back on top of the tube. once rotated 90 pull back as far as you can.. all the while keeping things on top.. the back hooks should beclear after about 4 to 5 inches.. then to get it the rest of the way out. rotate torque tube so the hooks are now on top. while keeping all the stuff above the tube there. then you should be able to pull the torque tube all they way back.. On the manual trany it has to be ALLL the way back till it hits the tire well... The main thing wasconstantly adjusting the stuff up top and slidding the muffler mounts as you work your way back. with the torque tube. 2 people, 1 front and 1 back would make this easier..It took me awhile to get this right. as I kept thinking this was far enough... it has to touch the spare tire well to get the bell housing out.. this was on a manual though.. but I dought that the auto is a whole lot different..good luck! Sorry about the length of this guy's but I spent almost 2 hours doing this.. as it was not ever clearly pointed out in anything I read..ie, haynes pull torque tube back......that is all it said..

Matt Sheppard

Another post that will never die.