Well it appears all the easy solutions have been exhausted.

Its not the gauge

Its not the OPRV (although it does eat orings because it isn't aligned quite right)

Its not the pump because it does squirt alot

Its not the pickup (because I substantially overfilled it with oil just to test and still had the same low pressure)

There are metal traces in the oil when I drained it and looked at it in a black pan in direct sunlight.

Where's the best place to source main and rod bearings? Should I replace balance shaft bearings too, or are those probably not what failed?

Also would anyone consider letting me borrow tool 9262 to align my cooler housing?

I have no idea what caused this failure - everything in the lower end looked perfect.

THANKS for all the help everyone, too bad it was the problem I was hoping it wouldnt be. I just had this motor out and rebuilt the upper end less than a thousand miles ago.

 

54 views and nobody knows who the best supplier of rod and main bearings is? Is glyco any good?

 

I purchased my Glyco rods and mains and goetze rings from pelican parts, they had the best prices I could find. When I had my oil cooler housing off over the summer I used the ORPV as the alignment tool.

 

I'm using Glyco main and rod bearings also.

How do you know the OPRV is not the problem? I didn't follow your other thread, but when I read above, I take this from it:
The assembly that controls oil pressure, is not installed correctly and wears a part that normally does not wear, but that couldn't be what's causing my oil pressure problem.

-just sayin'

 

haha ok sorry

I think it did cause a oil pressure problem....but in the process I ruined the motor. The oil is full of metal shavings. I can see them on my finger when I wipe the dipstick, or when I drain a little oil into a jar and observe in the light. I may have temporarily "fixed" the oprv problem with a new oring, but by that point Id clearly damaged some bearings.

Lesson to all, you should probably align the onepiece oprv with the tool, I thought I had mine perfect by using the oprv itself....apparently not.

Krazykarl - maybe in your case its better to be lucky than good!

 

Ah, makes sense.

When putting the new bearings in, make sure to clean everything that comes in contact with oil. This includes taking the oil thermostat out, cleaning the oil cooler and lines, etc.... You don't want those particles to take out the new bearings.

 

PJ - I've done the housing alignment using the OPRV itself, and with the tool. It's just a more certain process with the tool - and reduces risk of damage to the valve itself. A jammed OPRV can cause low pressure (if jammed full open) or such excess pressure (if jammed shut) that it will pop the oil filter gasket. I had that latter problem - and it makes quite a mess on the floor. Need to check for free movement of the plunger inside the end of the OPRV, it should be smooth with moderate spring resistance.

Also, the one-piece OPRV has an internal o-ring that if missing or badly damaged will cause low or unstable pressure. The "Manual" says that no internal repairs are possible, but I know others have carefully pulled the valve housing open, replaced this o-ring, oiled the parts, then pushed back together.

PM me if you like, and we can work out borrowing my alignment tool. But I'm thinking that it could also be the valve itself.

 

Should I replace the balance shaft bearings and oil pump too? Since those came in contact with the oil as well?

 

Inspect the bearings, but if they're cheap enough (I have no idea what they cost) replace them. You will also want to pull the oil pump apart and clean it. The pump internals are hardened steel and should be fine.

I know it sounds excessive to clean everything, but I'm sure you want eliminate any possibility of a 3rd tear down.

 

I still suspect a funky OPRV as the original problem. I found EBS Racing to have the best prices by far on all my rebuild supplies. EBS Racing Ask for Don.

 

In the porsche manual it says to use BENZINE to flush everything out of the engine - that stuff is toxic to breath and the boiling temp is really low. I dont think you can even buy it in the US...lol. I remember when I lived at the coast a tanker had an accident in the channel near our city and everyone had to evacuate because the benzine was pouring out of the ship into the warm water and going straight to gas - gassing the whole town. What a huge mess! 0_0

I bet a little diesel fuel will flush the oil passages out just fine.

 

Toluene is the less toxic recommended substitute for benzene and is available at any Home Depot. Diesel can leave a residue but probably not enough to matter. I take it you are pulling the engine to make these repairs? Good luck on the repairs.

 

Using the OPRV valve to align the oil cooler housing is risky. The lower "O" ring may bind.

To replace the "inner" oprv "O" ring:
For reference: