Here we go again-924S Restore-NO START w/ Pics
#16
Race Car
I've got to say thirdgenbird, That is one great looking 924. You've got it going in the right direction IMHO. I chose a 924S over a lot of 944/951 for my car as they are sneaky fast. Proper suspension and tuning can rattle a stock 951 anyday and a gorgous shape. Lets keep the 924S love flowing here.
#17
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Nice 924S! Gives me something to look forward to.
Back to the starting problem...
I finally got the top adjustment bolt free. I never got the locking bolt free--in fact I rounded it. As Joe suggested I measured the gap by measuring from the top of the opening to the flywheel and then comparing that to the length of the sensor. As it turned out, the gap was set to 8mm instead of .8mm! Someone must have read Clarks Garage wrong. I know the PO was trying to trouble shoot the no starting condition. He must have done it three years ago when he parked it.
So having just the adjustment bolt free I decided to use my favorite tool the BFH (big f%@king hammer). I knocked on the bracket and actually got it to move. I got it down as far as I could. The gap is now ~1mm. I'm hoping that will do it. I won't know until I put things back together tomorrow. Unfortunately, I had to touch up the intake. I scratched the hell out of it when removing it.
Hopefully good news tomorrow.
-bj
Back to the starting problem...
I finally got the top adjustment bolt free. I never got the locking bolt free--in fact I rounded it. As Joe suggested I measured the gap by measuring from the top of the opening to the flywheel and then comparing that to the length of the sensor. As it turned out, the gap was set to 8mm instead of .8mm! Someone must have read Clarks Garage wrong. I know the PO was trying to trouble shoot the no starting condition. He must have done it three years ago when he parked it.
So having just the adjustment bolt free I decided to use my favorite tool the BFH (big f%@king hammer). I knocked on the bracket and actually got it to move. I got it down as far as I could. The gap is now ~1mm. I'm hoping that will do it. I won't know until I put things back together tomorrow. Unfortunately, I had to touch up the intake. I scratched the hell out of it when removing it.
Hopefully good news tomorrow.
-bj
#18
glad to hear progress has been made! when i put my clutch in i read that whole .8mm business twice to make sure i read it right
thanks whalebird. i was looking for a 944 not even knowing the 924s existed. while wheel shopping i regretted the decision to get a 924s, but after gambling on the cayman wheels and lowering the car i dont regret a thing. its not nearly as common and with coilovers on all 4 corners and 968 sway bars it drives great.
thanks whalebird. i was looking for a 944 not even knowing the 924s existed. while wheel shopping i regretted the decision to get a 924s, but after gambling on the cayman wheels and lowering the car i dont regret a thing. its not nearly as common and with coilovers on all 4 corners and 968 sway bars it drives great.
#19
Race Car
glad to hear progress has been made! when i put my clutch in i read that whole .8mm business twice to make sure i read it right
thanks whalebird. i was looking for a 944 not even knowing the 924s existed. while wheel shopping i regretted the decision to get a 924s, but after gambling on the cayman wheels and lowering the car i dont regret a thing. its not nearly as common and with coilovers on all 4 corners and 968 sway bars it drives great.
thanks whalebird. i was looking for a 944 not even knowing the 924s existed. while wheel shopping i regretted the decision to get a 924s, but after gambling on the cayman wheels and lowering the car i dont regret a thing. its not nearly as common and with coilovers on all 4 corners and 968 sway bars it drives great.
If you want, I will share my remedy for this in PM.
#20
without spacers they sit further inside the fenders than stock. i also have 7mm longer studs and the SAME thread engagement as stock. these are also street wheels. i have a 16in spacer free track set.
#22
Race Director
Well that is a start. Lets see how it turns out. Just to be sure you don't damage a sensor it is probably good to hand turn the engine over once to make sure the pin on the flywheel does not hit the reference sensor. It should miss it if you have clearance to the ring gear, but I like to be certain.
#23
Race Car
Sounds like you've got it covered thirdgenbird. I had assumed that when you added spacers, that you MAY not have added the longer lugs. Really, the spacers, the added offset, and larger diameter 17's all add up to the proper set up. When diameter increases, the offset increases, so the spacers are right on the money if you don't have fiting issues in the rear. Anyhoo, I really like your car and what you've done.
lets just see if we can get this 924S running for the OP. It's always nice to have M758 on the case. This forum can really benefit from some sound technical input and M758 is one of the few with the goods.
lets just see if we can get this 924S running for the OP. It's always nice to have M758 on the case. This forum can really benefit from some sound technical input and M758 is one of the few with the goods.
#25
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New sensors installed and still no spark. Knowing that the ignition system is good, I know the problem has to be the sensors (which are brand new, now) or the ECU. So I swapped in the ECU and AFM from my early 944.
Presto! I have spark. It still won't start, though.
So, I have spark, I have fuel, DME temperature sensor is in the correct range measured at the ECU, fuel pressure is good, ohm ranges on both the speed and reference sensors are good at the ECU, TPS is correct measured at the ECU, and the battery is fully charged.
One interesting thing is that the tach isn't bouncing. I'm thinking that the tach wire must have broken when I was working on everything else. If I'm getting spark, but the tach isn't moving it has to be the tach, right? If it was the reference sensor I wouldn't get spark, correct?
-bj
Presto! I have spark. It still won't start, though.
So, I have spark, I have fuel, DME temperature sensor is in the correct range measured at the ECU, fuel pressure is good, ohm ranges on both the speed and reference sensors are good at the ECU, TPS is correct measured at the ECU, and the battery is fully charged.
One interesting thing is that the tach isn't bouncing. I'm thinking that the tach wire must have broken when I was working on everything else. If I'm getting spark, but the tach isn't moving it has to be the tach, right? If it was the reference sensor I wouldn't get spark, correct?
-bj
#26
Race Director
are you getting fuel through the injectors?
I have known injectors to clog up from sitting. The easy (but messy) way to test is to pull the rail and let the injectors fire over the headers. Then make sure they all fire fuel. If they are weak clean them.
Of course headers need to be cold and make sure you don't any open sparks. You could also swap the fuel rail with injectors from the race car.
I have known injectors to clog up from sitting. The easy (but messy) way to test is to pull the rail and let the injectors fire over the headers. Then make sure they all fire fuel. If they are weak clean them.
Of course headers need to be cold and make sure you don't any open sparks. You could also swap the fuel rail with injectors from the race car.
#27
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are you getting fuel through the injectors?
I have known injectors to clog up from sitting. The easy (but messy) way to test is to pull the rail and let the injectors fire over the headers. Then make sure they all fire fuel. If they are weak clean them.
Of course headers need to be cold and make sure you don't any open sparks. You could also swap the fuel rail with injectors from the race car.
I have known injectors to clog up from sitting. The easy (but messy) way to test is to pull the rail and let the injectors fire over the headers. Then make sure they all fire fuel. If they are weak clean them.
Of course headers need to be cold and make sure you don't any open sparks. You could also swap the fuel rail with injectors from the race car.
Thanks for the suggestion!
-bj
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#30
Race Director
I would definitly fire the injectors over the headers. It is possible that you have a damaged injector wire causing it not to fire at all. You will still get fuel pressure, but may not get the injectors to fire .
You said you had rat/mice infesttation. I have know rats/field mice to chew up injector wires. I wonder if you have damaged wire and have not been able to trace it down. If the injectors are fresh and you get no fuel out of them something is preventing them from operationg.
On the other hand if you have fuel from the injectors and have spark then it has to be timing. The injector must not be firing at the right time or the spark is not firing at the right time. Timing is controlled by a few things.
1) Speed & Ref sensors
2) DME
3) Wires to injectors
4) Rotor & Cap
5) spark plug wires (ie must be in the right order)
6) Timing belt vs TDC. (you can get the cam 180 out of phase causing not start, but also no valve to piston contact)
You said you had rat/mice infesttation. I have know rats/field mice to chew up injector wires. I wonder if you have damaged wire and have not been able to trace it down. If the injectors are fresh and you get no fuel out of them something is preventing them from operationg.
On the other hand if you have fuel from the injectors and have spark then it has to be timing. The injector must not be firing at the right time or the spark is not firing at the right time. Timing is controlled by a few things.
1) Speed & Ref sensors
2) DME
3) Wires to injectors
4) Rotor & Cap
5) spark plug wires (ie must be in the right order)
6) Timing belt vs TDC. (you can get the cam 180 out of phase causing not start, but also no valve to piston contact)