My A/C doesn't work so I don't know why I even pushed the button, but I did and since then the heater fan runs on low even with the **** turned off and is at full hot with the temp. control turned all the way to cold.

I have a new (6 weeks) water valve and the clips are good.

It was not the instant defrost button that I pushed, it was the A/C button.

Wish I had more normal problems.
Thanks in advance.

 

bump

 

I had that problem awhile back, even with a new heater vavle and good clips hot air would still come out. From what I could tell, the servo(motor) that moved the rod that opened the damper was stuck. I could see the rod not moving when I turned the temp. ****. I couldn't really tell you how to fix it but I got really pissed after an hour of laying on the floorboard trying to fix it myself. I did get it to work though, while I cursed at the car I thumped the center console carpet under the dash with the palm of my hand a couple of time and I guess that free'd up the motor cause it works fine now. Sometimes it'll turn hot again but a good thump will put right back on cool. I know it's not the corect way to fix it but it worked for me. HTH and good luck

 

I just discovered something-when the heater A/c control fuse blows the control unit defaults to full hot. <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

 

[quote]Originally posted by triscadek:
<strong>I just discovered something-when the heater A/c control fuse blows the control unit defaults to full hot. </strong><hr></blockquote>

Dang, now that's a _very_ useful piece of info that I didn't have... many thanks for sharing!

Now I'll share a useful tip for '85.5 & later cars. As a temporary fix for unwanted heat, you can hold the heater water valve under the hood shut with a zip-tie.

The engine-off (or loss of vacuum) default position for the valve is full open. With the engine off, you want to move the valve all the way to the other end of its travel, and wrap a zip-tie around the levr and the mounting arm.

This doesn't actually 'fix' anything, but it will buy you some time for troubleshooting without having to tolerate full heat while driving.

It also will give you slightly less warm air on start-up in the outside vent position, since the water in the heater core stays cool.


Caution: be aware that this'll also keep you from getting heat for de-fogging.

It's easy to do on the 968 since the heater valve is easy to get to; dunno about other cars in the series.

I'd hesitate to leave it tied off for too long, since stagnate coolant in the heater core could lead to corrosion problems.

Jim, "Dear Aunt Em, Hate you, hate Kansas. Took the dog. Dorothy. PS: Toto misses your leg."

 

I hope our purpose is to share useful information-not just rag on amaf <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> <img src="graemlins/nono.gif" border="0" alt="[nono]" />