968ntewbie

Hi to all the experts/enthusiasts here,

I heard some noises underneath the car as soon I started the engine. It got a little better when I shifted to N, but not so good when the car was idling (either in P or D 2nd). It sounded like "clacking" but not really in a rhytm. The noise would go away as soon as I got the car moving but I supposed that's because I couldn't hear it. At first I thought the exhaust pipe might be loose hitting other components but that was not it.

As you can see on the right, the exhaust pipe has been taken off.


A view to give you a different perspective, but I am sure everyone here knows how this looks like.


A closer view on the flywheel.


Tried to get a good picture on the flywheel but still couldn't see anything inside.


According to the shop that will work on the car, a "rubber" piece attaching to the flywheel is really in a bad shape now. Need a flashlight and a good angle on photo #4 to see it. I've been trying to get as much info as I can on my own. Can anyone tell me if it's,
#21 or #22 on this diagram that's broken? I've been reading lots of info here and on "porsche968uk.co.uk" and on "pelicanparts" but lots of procedures and terms are very confusing to me. I am located outside of the US and the UK so it might be difficult to get parts right away.

According to the shop, since the exhaust pipe and starter were already taken off, they would next take off the transmission in the back, torque converter, driveshaft (torque tube?) and then work on this bellhousing that houses this flywheel. Is this the right procedure? I am very confused by the terms on the manuals and the postings on the forums. Is torque tube also called driveshaft? And what's the best way to work on this problem now? And while we are at it, is there anything else to be replaced? Thanks.

Sam

boost feen

Unfortunately your shop is right on, the automatic transaxle that is in your 968 is diiferent than the 944's however almost everything else is the same, the toque tube, bellhousing, rubber coupler that attaches crankshaft of engine to drive tube. So they have to remove the transaxle, disconnect then slide the drive tube back, and remove bellhousing from engine to change this part: Here is the part below, its around $900 directly from Porsche and finding a good or great used one will be hard. I have one but its rubber is cracked so it will surely break soon if used again. Just know that any 1983 - 1989 Porsche 944 and '87 - '88 924S that has an 8 valve 2.5 liter engine with automatic transaxle has this exact same part:

Porsche part # 94411606504

Good luck! Also replace the pilot bearing in back of crankshaft, rear main seal, check CV joints on rear axles for wear and make sure rubber boots are not cracked or torn.

Bri Bro

Oh my, a $1,000+ part. Must have special rubber in it. Might also want to rebuild the torque tube bearing will it is out of the car.

968ntewbie

Quote:

Originally Posted by boost feen

Porsche part # 94411606504

Good luck! Also replace the pilot bearing in back of crankshaft, rear main seal, check CV joints on rear axles for wear and make sure rubber boots are not cracked or torn.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Broderick

Oh my, a $1,000+ part. Must have special rubber in it. Might also want to rebuild the torque tube bearing will it is out of the car.

Hi there, thank you for your inputs. Apologized for the late feedback as I was spending most of the spare time doing the research. I am still very confused, however..

1. How do we order parts from Porsche directly? Do they let car owners do that? I thought we can only get parts from dealers or parts sellers. Do I just call up a random dealer in the US and ask if they can ship oversea? The only thing I see is this

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessori...originalparts/

In the Genuine Parts Shop section. But it seems like a paid membership service for shops??

2. I looked everywhere and the part ranged from 900 something to 1200. Would it be ok for me to list all the links here and can anyone tell me if they are all reliable sellers? And why is a piece of rubber US$1000? I know the metal part around it may need precision in manufacturing but are there any alternatives? The conversion to using manual parts into the bellhousing is too much trouble.

3. Why do some sellers list the part W0133-1597145 instead of 94411606504? I noticed that. And if the "W0133-1597145" is just a catalog number, how can it be the same at all different sellers? Is it really the right part? The photo is completely different! I know it says "image may vary from actual part".

4. Other than "pilot bearing", do I also buy "pilot bushing"? Are they the same?? On some parts website they seemed the same thing. Is it #26 on the image below? What is #25? Sorry that I don't have any CD or PET manual so I had to go find and download all these info without labels somewhere.

Thank you so much.

Sam