Wow I really like that blue. Looks great.

 

Welcome to Rennlist ,your in the rigth place lot of helpful peoples here. +1 had a very early 944 & that where the paint # was copy the # rigth away & put in a safe place since the sticker get very brittle after all those years & can be easily destroy if your working in that area of the car.

 

Welcome. The car looks very nice. If 944's were that cheap over here too i think i would have had at least 7 now(at once),one for each day of the week lol. Usually repainted cars don't get very good paint jobs,u should find traces of the original color (if not original) in the engine bay or inside the car under the carpet. U can also find a copy of your option code sticker in your service manual.

 

You guys are my new favorite, I tried jumping the starter motor like in Clark's Garage, and I got a click from the starter, I'm assuming it's the bendix jumping up to engage with the fly wheel but it just doesn't have enough juice to spin the motor, so it's on a charge now.

For a laugh, I jumped in the driver's seat and tried spinning the key and I got this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfZgbOl4FVM

This is huge progress considering my frustration the last month or two. I'm wondering if the bendix just got stuck for one reason or another.

 

keep on chargin....

 

Okay, sorry to revive an old thread here but I didn't want to start another one. I finally got the beast cranking. I found a loose ground and I think that did the trick. It's cranking over very happily now, however I'm not getting any fuel or spark. There's a new DME relay in there, but I have considered just jumping it. Is there anything else I could try? There's fuel in the rail, I unscrewed the end of it and I got a little fuel to come out. It just doesn't seem to be going out the injectors. Help please!

 

How do the plugs look?

 

Have you changed the fuel filter yet? There is a fuel pump check valve on the fuel pump outlet side that sometimes sticks. You did drain the old fuel, I hope.The Ignition Switch behind the key is known to crack with age and the engine will crank, but not send the electrical pulse to DME to start the engine. Clark's Garage shows how to change it, $15 part. Very important to make sure ALL Grounds are clean esp. on the bell housing and the ground from battery to chassis.

Cheers,
Larry

 

I got all the grounds done. I've checked it several times, which is why it wasn't cranking in the first place. I think the fuel filter is a good bet. Will that connect to the plugs not firing? They look okay, a little wear, but nothing major. How would one check for that pulse thing? Where on Clark's Garage would it be?

 

I think I found the source of the problem. I checked the resistance on the reference and speed sensors like on Clark's Garage. I didn't get any resistance through one of them so I'm assuming, based on the write up on the website there, that this is the source of one (hopefully all) of my problems. Please let me know if my logic is flawed or if I'm reading it wrong!

 

your injectors will be stuck for sure.

You should remove them and get them cleaned and tested professionally but for a quick n dirty diy fix.

Disconnect the electic connectors to injectors.
use a PP3 9v torch battery with leads and flash the spade connectors on the injectors. You should hear clear distinct clicking as the solenoids strike each end of the injectors.

Don't hold the battery wires on the injectors or you could damage them but flick the battery wires across the spade connectors quickly so they arc
I did that on mine for about 1 minute each and got it started eventually.

Borrow a noid light and check you get a pulse to the injector connectors when cranking.