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87 944 reference sensor and speed sensor

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Old 12-30-2009 | 06:03 PM
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Default 87 944 reference sensor and speed sensor

Where can i get a reference sensor and or a speed sensor. My car just cranks I have tried my other DME and the Tach has no bounce when cranking. Money very tight so where can I get one at good price. Which one should I try first? please help thanks.
Old 12-30-2009 | 07:41 PM
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Just to review.
The other DME--was that a different DME/fuel pump relay?

Check the connections at the top of the rear block. Clean and check for cracks in the wires at the connector. Are the connectors connected to the correct wire?

Can you get the sensors out of the sensor bracket? Take your time if they are stuck or you will have bigger problems.

Check the big negative cable ground and the small wire ground next to it. Put a piece of tape over the TDC hole to avoid dropping a nut or bolt down.

You could try calling John at www.apartabove.com or George at www.944ecology.com for a used sensor.
You can get a new Bosch sensor that is an interchange for about $68.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...reference.html

Post a WTB (want to buy) ad on Rennlist or Pelican parts wanted.

If you have done all the basic checks, your probably correct about the bad sensor.

GL
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Old 12-30-2009 | 07:41 PM
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Here or here or you could buy a good used one if money is that tight.
Old 12-30-2009 | 09:01 PM
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I had no start issue and was something in the fuse box . I replaced it and all is well $50.00 Canadian.
Old 12-31-2009 | 01:12 PM
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Thanks guys and one more thing I have a new battery and It goes dead after about 7 days without getting it out and driving it? So give me some more idea's.
Old 12-31-2009 | 07:13 PM
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Put a cheap Harbor Freight or similiar better quality multimeter (VOA) between the POS battery terminal and the cable. Switch the meter to DC Mega amps first and then down one step at a time to baby amps (ma) setting. The typical drain should be about 10ma or so. Mine is 8.65ma. If you have more drain then start pulling one fuse after another until you find the current drain. Radio, door switches, brake handle contact, running lights +++++++could be the problem>
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Old 01-01-2010 | 11:11 AM
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sweet thanks
Old 02-25-2010 | 04:23 PM
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Ok I think my problem is the one of the two either the reference or the speed sensor. I know my tach has no bounch at all when cranking.

1. So how can I tell which one has gone bad?

2. Which one is which how can I tell?

3. What is the best way to get those things out they are very tight.

4. Where is a good place to buy them? I live in no mans land. We have Napa, Advance, Auto Zone, O'reilly's even if it's a cheap one I need something to try this thing out. Thanks
Old 02-25-2010 | 05:21 PM
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the bmw interchanged part is 12 14 1 710 668. it's for 84-91 bmw 325's flywheel pickup sensor. try asking for that...
Old 02-25-2010 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by kyporsche87
Ok I think my problem is the one of the two either the reference or the speed sensor. I know my tach has no bounch at all when cranking.

1. So how can I tell which one has gone bad?

2. Which one is which how can I tell?

3. What is the best way to get those things out they are very tight.

4. Where is a good place to buy them? I live in no mans land. We have Napa, Advance, Auto Zone, O'reilly's even if it's a cheap one I need something to try this thing out. Thanks

Removal:
Each sensor is held down by a 10mm bolt.
Remove the bolt.
If the sensors have never in 25 years been removed, the sensor is dry rot welded to the sensor bracket.
Do not grab the sensor with a pair of locking pliers and try to pull up
See if the sensor rotates L&R and try to coax the sensor up and out.
If the sensor does not move soak with PB Blaster or a NEW formula I just heard of=======AutoTransFluid and Acetone mixture. Let it soak.

If in 2 or 3 days the sensor will not come up, crawl on top of the manifold and begin to lift the the sensor while you are twisting L&R.
This may take another 2 or 3 days.

NOTE if you break the sensor in half, the sensor bracket will have to be removed.
The 2 HEX Pan Head 1 1/2" bolts have welded themselves to the block and you will strip the heads if you can get to them at all with your bloody arms and cut fingers.

Now is the time to remove the intake manifold to get access.

Good luck

Testing:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-19.pdf

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-02.htm

John_AZ



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