j-t

That is one thing I will be changing, the grounding strap will get its own mount in a few days.

j-t

Been out in the garage for another look and also on the manufacturers website, they have another piece where there is a hole on the side of the bar

I am guessing, will have to talk to them to get it confirmed, that this is where you should mount the sway bar. If that is the case then "all" I have to do is to drill a hole, thread it, modify the bar and get some balljoints to connect it all together...

I always thought that the sway bar should be 90 degrees of the lower arm? Stock is at a lesser angle..

xschop

Option #2 with a dropped Heim Joint because of the strange/unknown articulation will cause bad juju.
Here's what I did for my RX7 modded arms if I decided to go with a custom sway other that the Turbo sway I now have....I see your dilemma. I also machine alot of billet and I would only go Option #1 if I knew for a fact that the front control rod was 7075 and grade 8 or higher 8x1.25 were used (at least 2 in the design) The RX7 uses 2 grade 10 M12 x 1.5 Hope this helps....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...rms-pic-2.html

mj951

Two holes, one in each side of the bar should work, plenty of material there. I would not want to load the bar asymetrically with only a single hole but I dought thats not how they have it designed. Keep us up to date with how you solve this, and more pics of the car are always welcome. Thanks for posting.

j-t

You are probably right, might flex in a way its not designed to :/
Those are some interesting designs, gives me a few ideas...
That does help a lot, thank you

j-t

Yes, 2 holes would do more then well but then comes the issue with the front wheel, have to put it back on to measure the clearances.
If that bar was made of steel then there would be a easy solution, just weld on 2 brackets...
Thank you for your thoughts and feedback, more pics will come..

j-t

Do anyone know the spec on the sway bar itself? What kind of material, how thick the walls are etc.

mj951

There are a few different sizes available base on year and model, you will want to put a caliper on it and measure to be sure.
OEM sizes include 21.5, 25.5, 26.8 and 30.0mm.

Can't help you with the material thickness, sorry.

vt951

Perhaps consider installing the sway bar upside down (flipped L to R) and mounting it to the lower spring perch. That way the sway bar loads are not carried by the control arms at all.

mikey_audiogeek

+1

There may be some Audi control arm or sway bar links that help you mount the sway bar to the spring perch. Alternatively, this may give you some ideas: http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=312111

Hope you like the H&R coilovers - I do!

Cheers,
Mike

j-t

Was thinking of that earlier but to me it seemed like there would be a clearance issue with the tie rod.
Today I gave it a try and there is no clearance issue and I am almost curtain that this will work! I can use the mount, if I am correct that the hole in the side of the alubar is intended for the sway bar, and all I lack are some stiffer bushes and a rod end on each side!

j-t

Thanks for the feedback and the link.

Well, have not driven the car yet so will tell you later, but they make good coilovers so I am sure they will be ever so good

Oddjob

You cant mount the swaybar ends to the strut/spring perch - the macpherson struts pivot when the wheels are turned.

Keep in mind that the control arm and the swaybar pivot in different planes. If you make the connection too rigid, it will bind the joint. Which will either limit freedom of movement of the front suspension or break the connection.

j-t

I will, have to try my theory out before putting the car on the road but it seems like it just might work. Will do some "dry runs" with unloaded springs next week and after that start loading them up to see how it works.

I will get some blade sways for 2011, this will only be for the current year...

j-t

Spoke with the manufacturer today and he said that there would not be any danger in drilling even an 10mm hole in the bar. They have this setup on many cars among others rally cars and he have seen crashed ones with the wheel pushed all the way back and never have the alubar snapped, he said it's always been the casters or the uniballs. With this in mind i might just do the simple thing here and drill a hole in the alubar and mount it similar to stock.
Still have my other option but have to think about that one...