pjburges

Just thought I'd post what I discovered for everyone:

I installed a set of Mookeh (ebay) camber plates with aluminum top hats on ride height adjustable collars. The springs were 350lb coilover style.

While aligning it and setting it up with caster to pull hard left it still defied the laws of physics and pulled hard right. It initially had us stumped.

What I discovered is that the coil springs were binding. To straighten the car out a good hard swerve in the opposite direction of the way the car is pulling will produce an audible "pop," thereby unloading the spring and the car will track straight.

The hats on either side of this hard steel spring are aluminum and this will chew the aluminum extensively. To rectify the issue I am going to try and insert a hardened steel shim washer on either side between the spring and the hat and spring and ride height collar and grease both surfaces. I'll follow up on this thread and see if it eleminates the pop and pull symptom!

Van

Something's not right - camber plates should have a "bearing" at the top... this allows the strut AND shaft to pivot as one unit when you steer. This prevents the twisting on the spring that you're describing.

Hypercoil makes this product, which may solve your problem, although it's designed to address a different issue: http://www.hypercoils.com/Products/H...ing-Perch.aspx

pormgb

Are you sure you don't just have another set of these camber plates with seized bearings? There are quite a few threads about these camber plates.

I bought a set of these off Ebay, installed them and found the spherical bearings to be very tight in the aluminum housing, this prevents the spring from moving freely as you turn left to right, I used a 1/8" washer between the spring cap and special sleeved nut and greased the bearing.

I experienced the same popping sound especially when turning over bumps, the sound was caused by the coil spring unloading when turning. Out of my two plates, the plate installed on the left side has a tighter bearing and caused more noise. I asked many questions about these plates and have never figured out whats up with them, I eventually removed them and went back to my stock mounts.

Kurt R

The top hat has to only contact the bearing, so that it can turn with the strut. If it is touching the plate it will bind. Make sure you have everything installed right, you may need a spacer between the top of the top hat and the bearing for clearance.

pjburges

Ill double check the clearance though I remember having a washer at the top between the heim joint and the top hat. The bearings were not siezed. These mookeh plates only have a heim joint at the top to take all the load axially. No bearing. The top hat is aluminum racers edge type. I'll look into it, but it seems to be exactly as pormgb describes.

drift a 944

Ended up returning my Mookeeh camber plates for the same reason. Greased them well and drove around on them for 2 or 3 days and still the bearings were frozen, no movement at all, lots of popping.

Garbage product.

Cory M

If the spring is binding you can put a thrust (torrington) bearing under it, RE suspension, Stimola, and others sell them for $25-30 a pair. The Ground Control plates have a thrust bearing built in.

M758

seems like hte Mookeh can be hit or miss. I know one set to have survived the 25 hours of thunderhill with zero issues. Now we have a few not making it even a short time. I put in paragon-branded ground control units back in 2002. I still have them in the car with zero adjustments or even any lube. They still work great.