16V cam chain tensioner replacement costs
02-28-2003, 09:03 PM
#16
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BTW what's the cheapest place to get the tensioner? The cheapest I've found so far is Paragon at $270, but I keep reading that it's a $200-$250 part??
03-01-2003, 06:44 AM
#17
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Oh, hey. While we are on the subject. Does anybody want or know of a company who would want 2 camshafts from a 944S? They need re-sprocketing, but are in good shape (lobe-wise)...I can take pictures for whoever wants them.
03-01-2003, 01:24 PM
#18
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I replaced mine last summer. I got the parts from Sunset Porsche via their mail order deal.
List of parts:
Chain adjuster 944-105-049-01
Oil pipe (j-tube) 944-105-167-03
Aluminum washer(4) N-013-807-6
Valve cover gasket 928-104-447-09
Grommets (13) 928-104-115-02
Spark plug gaskets(4) 928-104-443-08
Total price delivered: $271.90
Just make sure that you plug ALL of the oil return passages in the head. You don't need to remove your spark plugs to replace the tensioner, just the plug wires. Remember, plug ALL of the holes...you don't want to drop one of those 6mm bolts into the head. It is an easy job, just take you time and be very methodical. Dropping a bolt into the head will be VERY expensive or VERY time consuming depending on who retrieves it. Don't ask.
Best Regards, Max
List of parts:
Chain adjuster 944-105-049-01
Oil pipe (j-tube) 944-105-167-03
Aluminum washer(4) N-013-807-6
Valve cover gasket 928-104-447-09
Grommets (13) 928-104-115-02
Spark plug gaskets(4) 928-104-443-08
Total price delivered: $271.90
Just make sure that you plug ALL of the oil return passages in the head. You don't need to remove your spark plugs to replace the tensioner, just the plug wires. Remember, plug ALL of the holes...you don't want to drop one of those 6mm bolts into the head. It is an easy job, just take you time and be very methodical. Dropping a bolt into the head will be VERY expensive or VERY time consuming depending on who retrieves it. Don't ask.
Best Regards, Max
03-01-2003, 09:44 PM
#19
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Thanks a lot for your info MadMax, I have sent Sunset Porsche a request for quotes.
I do have a qn abt the oil pipe. My shop did not include this part on the work order. Is is a part that should be changed regularly?
I do have a qn abt the oil pipe. My shop did not include this part on the work order. Is is a part that should be changed regularly?
03-01-2003, 11:32 PM
#20
Burning Brakes
Seggy,
The engine alone was $5000. It came from a '94 968 with around 50k miles. The actual swap came to around $2500 for misc. parts and labor.
However, including the original diagnosis, and other associated work (I had them do the rod bearings/water pump/oil pump/t-belts) and a bunch of other stuff, the total ran to 5 figures.
The swap itself seems to be do-able for a DIY job. But, there are some considerable engineering hurdles that need to be overcome regarding how the 968 DME picks up its tach informaiton and associated data (from the ABS computer if I recall) as opposed to the 944 (flywheel reference sensors).
The swap is definitaly worth the cost now that I'ver recovered from sticker shock, as the car is the ultimate sleeper on the track.
I'm looking forward to blowing the doors off some Turbo S's in a couple of weeks as I will have a hundred pounds less weight and about equal power...
Matt
The engine alone was $5000. It came from a '94 968 with around 50k miles. The actual swap came to around $2500 for misc. parts and labor.
However, including the original diagnosis, and other associated work (I had them do the rod bearings/water pump/oil pump/t-belts) and a bunch of other stuff, the total ran to 5 figures.
The swap itself seems to be do-able for a DIY job. But, there are some considerable engineering hurdles that need to be overcome regarding how the 968 DME picks up its tach informaiton and associated data (from the ABS computer if I recall) as opposed to the 944 (flywheel reference sensors).
The swap is definitaly worth the cost now that I'ver recovered from sticker shock, as the car is the ultimate sleeper on the track.
I'm looking forward to blowing the doors off some Turbo S's in a couple of weeks as I will have a hundred pounds less weight and about equal power...
Matt
03-10-2003, 06:55 AM
#21
Rennlist Member
Max,
the tensioner assembly was replaced at 124K on my S2, but not the gasket, so I'm finding fresh oil on the threads of my plugs and there's some weepage coming from the cam cover gasket.
I'm going to go ahead and replace these items but would appreciate any additional insight dos/don'ts (like I've heard those bolts only take 15 ft/lbs torque and crack very easily).
LMK
the tensioner assembly was replaced at 124K on my S2, but not the gasket, so I'm finding fresh oil on the threads of my plugs and there's some weepage coming from the cam cover gasket.
I'm going to go ahead and replace these items but would appreciate any additional insight dos/don'ts (like I've heard those bolts only take 15 ft/lbs torque and crack very easily).
LMK
03-10-2003, 11:04 AM
#22
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Luis, which bolts?
The bolts that hold the tensioner on the head take 7.5ft/lbs., NOT 15! The same for the bolts that hold the cam cover on.
The bolts that hold the cams to the head take 15 ft/lbs.
Good luck!
The bolts that hold the tensioner on the head take 7.5ft/lbs., NOT 15! The same for the bolts that hold the cam cover on.
The bolts that hold the cams to the head take 15 ft/lbs.
Good luck!
07-08-2003, 12:18 PM
#23
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Reviving this thread:
How hard is it to change that J-Tube?? Is it pretty straight-forward, or do I need to know more(like expect oil to shoot out, or do I need special tools, etc)??
Thanks!
How hard is it to change that J-Tube?? Is it pretty straight-forward, or do I need to know more(like expect oil to shoot out, or do I need special tools, etc)??
Thanks!
07-08-2003, 12:37 PM
#24
Rennlist Member
Hi Andy, thanks to Max's great post with the parts needed, I recently did this. It's very straightforward as long as you are careful when torquing the bolts.
Also, be sure to plug the spark plug holes with paper towels and be extra careful with the washers so they don't fall into the head.
As for tools, you will need some hex heads for your torque wrench or ratchet to use on the cam cover bolts, j-tube and tensioner assembly. Like 6 and 8 mm, I believe.
Also, be sure to plug the spark plug holes with paper towels and be extra careful with the washers so they don't fall into the head.
As for tools, you will need some hex heads for your torque wrench or ratchet to use on the cam cover bolts, j-tube and tensioner assembly. Like 6 and 8 mm, I believe.
07-09-2003, 08:36 AM
#27
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I changed the chain and tensioner in my original 944S back around 1997 (my write up of the DIY procedure is hosted on Clark Fletcher's site) and also replaced the cams on my 968 more recently (see my 968 Variocam inspection procedure with pictures of good and bad cams at <a href="http://www.968s.com)." target="_blank">www.968s.com).</a> Ever since my 944S experience, I've been taking a very active interest in 16v cam/tensioner discussions.
The labor for a cam change or just a chain swap is definitely in the order of 4-5 hours, certainly not less. Also, I would be wary of using rebuilt cams with repaired sprockets. If it were me, I would use good used or new Porsche cams with the original sprockets.
Regarding the tensioner, I would definitely consider just changing the plastic pads, rather than the whole tensioner assembly. I believe that the pad is the failure mechanism and I think the rest is pretty durable.
cheers
Derek
The labor for a cam change or just a chain swap is definitely in the order of 4-5 hours, certainly not less. Also, I would be wary of using rebuilt cams with repaired sprockets. If it were me, I would use good used or new Porsche cams with the original sprockets.
Regarding the tensioner, I would definitely consider just changing the plastic pads, rather than the whole tensioner assembly. I believe that the pad is the failure mechanism and I think the rest is pretty durable.
cheers
Derek
