Thom

Is it possible to remove valve springs on the 16V head without taking it off the block?

I was able to do it on the turbo but spark plug "wells" on the 16V head are much deeper, meaning I may not be able to connect a line between a modified plug and an air compressor...

peanut

I don't know but there is bound to be someone who has tried it .
can't see why it shouldn't work fine.

You can get around the deep plug holes by breaking the ceramic head off an old sparkplug and welding on a short length of steel tube to which you can attach the pressure line. if you crank the top of the tube 90 deg or add a T piece you can use that to screw the contraption into the plug thread



Have you done a compression test ? or just removed the cam cover ?

Thom

Update, my S2 engine is still running bad.
it's not the coil
it's not the plugs
it's not the ignition module
it's not the distributor
it's not the injectors
it's not the fuel pressure regulator

Sparks plugs are black, the engine is running pig rich, except on cylinder #4, which plug isn't quite as black as all others, and I can still touch exhaust runner #4 when shutting down the engine, which is just warm while the other 3 exhaust runners are so hot to the point they cannot be touched (=normal). I get spark equally on all 4 cylinders.

As the rich running suggests to me no mechanical issue, I'm considering having the DME checked, before taking off the head cover.

Any suggestion?

Could one or two broken intake valve springs on cylinder #4 prevent the fuel to make its way into the cylinder and let proper combustion take place?

peanut

you ask whether broken valve springs could effect non combustion in #4 cylinder but you completely ignore my last post a month ago asking you for compression test results ???? and you've not acknowledged any of my questions in other posts so I regret that I can no longer offer you any assistance I'm afraid.
I would suggest you put the car in a garage

Thom

A/ If I am not replying specifically to some questions that is obviously because I am not in a position to answer them.
B/ Since I'm not in a position to perform a compression test I will keep looking at all other possible sources of failure that are easier, for me, to check.
C/ It's very unlikely that I will put the car in any garage because some on here have no further suggestion to make if they don't get replies to their specific questions. Still, thanks to them for their interest

Next tests are trying the MAF and the DME on another car.

peanut

You are testing things completely at randomly because you have no comprehension of what you are doing. I was trying to guide you into testing key components in a systematic order for diagnostic purposes.

Remember it is you that asked for our assistance, not the other way round. We are totally reliant on your observations and responses to our questions because we are unable to see your car!

You are more likely to cause further problems by fiddling with things you don't understand. I suggested that you take the car to a competant technician for your benefit, not mine.

I have already indicated what you need to do and you have chosen to ignore that advice . That is why I have said that I am unable to assist you further.

Thom

Please do not feel obliged to keep on with this because you started this thread.