Stuck in gear
12-06-2009, 05:09 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stuck in gear
Hi,
Snow is coming so now it's time to do some maintenance. I had a few episodes this summer when I started the car even thought I had my foot on the clutch, I could barely get the transmission out of first, and I had to pull real hard on the shifter. But after doing that the car ran without any problems. The car was previously stopped and left in first gear. It did that at a DE event and I didn't want to use the hand brake because the disks where too hot. After that I used something to block the wheels and left the car in neutral and had no problems engaging the gears. Am I looking at a slave/master cylinder bleeding or changing or is it the clutch?
Snow is coming so now it's time to do some maintenance. I had a few episodes this summer when I started the car even thought I had my foot on the clutch, I could barely get the transmission out of first, and I had to pull real hard on the shifter. But after doing that the car ran without any problems. The car was previously stopped and left in first gear. It did that at a DE event and I didn't want to use the hand brake because the disks where too hot. After that I used something to block the wheels and left the car in neutral and had no problems engaging the gears. Am I looking at a slave/master cylinder bleeding or changing or is it the clutch?
12-06-2009, 05:24 PM
#2
Track Day
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm curious if the car was on level ground - if there was a torque bind on the driveline, it would be hard to shift even with the clutch in.
I'm not sure if this is a problem with the 44's, but the 68's have an issue with the rubber clutch line. As it ages and gets hot, it'll balloon which only partially disengages the clutch. Some have gone to braided line for this reason.
I'm not sure if this is a problem with the 44's, but the 68's have an issue with the rubber clutch line. As it ages and gets hot, it'll balloon which only partially disengages the clutch. Some have gone to braided line for this reason.
12-06-2009, 08:00 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
Mine does that pretty regularly with a near-new clutch. It appears the disc is sticking to the flywheel or PP, solution is to push in the clutch and start it. Once it breaks free, it's OK. The warmer it gets, the better it works.
Trending Topics
12-10-2009, 01:08 AM
#9
Track Day
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To check if the line balloons, just have someone watch it while the clutch actuated. While under the hood check for any weeping around the line.
Most likely there's air in the system. And, if that's the case either the master or slave are defective.
I'd suggest using a power bleeder to force out any air.
Most likely there's air in the system. And, if that's the case either the master or slave are defective.
I'd suggest using a power bleeder to force out any air.
