iloveporsches

Well, I did a search through the archives, and form what I saw, none of the threads about timing/ balance belt procedure were complete. So maybe now we can get a complete one, with a little help from you guys.

1) I have the Haynes manual, and the Factory Shop Manuals, but is there any other procedure info I should know before I tackle the job?

2) What tools will I need, and where can I get them? I know I can 'rent' the tensioner, but I don't know where/ how. I have plenty of sockets and wrenches. I don't have the right tool to take off the cheesehead bolt. I also don't have a torque wrench, do I need one?

3) How much will parts cost me, and where can I get them? I plan on doing the belts and waterpump, and if they're not too expensive, the rollers.

I'm a novice mechanic at best, but I'm sure that I can do any job, given the right tools and a step-by-step. Time isn't too much of an issue, so if it takes me 5 hours to do, fine, it saves me a few hundred in labor. I need to start learning how to fix things my self anyway, especialy with the 944. Thanks everyone!

P.S. I'm planing on joining Rennlist tonight, if that will help any

Type_LT

First thing I would do to prepare it get under the engine and hit the bolts with some liquid wrench and let it soak for quite a while. Thinks like the starter bolts are probably going to be pretty stubborn. There are some pretty good parts lists that have been put up on this site, do you have the Pet cd program? As far as cost I purchased all of my rollers, belts, seals, and waterpump from paragon products for 450.00. You can rent the tools here: <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/9201toolclub/" target="_blank">P9201 Tool Club</a>
This kit includes everything you need, the critical items being a flywheel lock and the tension gauge.

You will surely need a tourque wrench (get a big one capable of at least 150ft-lb). If you replace the front seals you'll need a 24mm socket to remove the crankshaft pulley (it's torqued to 154 ft-lb, this is where the flywheel lock is necessary). The cheesehead driver can be found at autozone for ~12.00 (decent quality). How many miles are on your 83'? Do you have much oil leakage from the front?

mark944turbo

I am also planning on doing a timing belt/water pump job on my 86 951. Does a complete step by step even exist? I have never seen one. If anyone knows of one of these it would be a BIG help. Thanks

Travis - sflraver

I did not use a tensioner I just did mine by the feel of it when I took the old one off. (stupid of me) but when I took it to the shop to get it re tensioned after I was done he said it was perfect. If its to tight you will hear a definate "wurrr" noise. Especialy from the ballence belt.

CurlyDE

I have to agree with Type_LT, make sure that you have a big torgue wrench. I had a hell of a time breaking the bolt on the crank loose. The best advice I can think of is to sit down and write down a complete list of the items that you will need. I got set back several times because of some minor (yet important) part that broke or I simply forgot.

Ex: I broke one of the water pump bolts off in the block ... had to drill and re-tap, then order new bolts. I also had the original snap ring break while installing the thermostat.

Just remember that the small stuff is important too. I was soooo pissed when I had to stop what I was doing to get such a minor part.

On a side note, I also recommend <a href="http://www.paragon-products.com" target="_blank">Paragon</a>. They were great about speeding these parts to me when I needed them!

Best of luck to you. If I have the time, I will try to make up a list of the tools and parts that I used ... and also the procedures that I followed.

iloveporsches

Hmm, it looks like I'm going to have to add another step into the process. There's some oil/ gunk build up in there, and I think that's what caused my balance belt to go. Luckily it's all in the very bottom and hasn't touched the t-belt.

So how much more of a pain would new front seals be?

ast2000

Front seals don't add much to the time of the task. Just remember that there are four seals not three. Also when you replace the crankseal replace the metal gear with it.

The job is not difficult,just pay attention to the details. There are lots of potential gotchas. When I did mine I took it to a shop and had the belts tensioned. I had gotten one of the balance shafts 180 degrees out. This will not cause catastropic failure but will make the engine vibrate.

I think the $150 he charged me was worth the piece of mind. Original quote was $75 just to adjust the belts. You won't find the balance shaft problem until you start the car.

MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU GET THE ALIGNMENT OF ALL THE PULLIES CORRECT. It took two sets of hands to get the belts on and thea lignment right.

iloveporsches

Yesterday I called three places to get quotes on the work, just so I have as many options as possible. Well, only one place has called me back so far, adn their quote was $1800! This seems really high to me. Belts are around $700, so how could a waterpump and front seal job add $1000 worth of parts and labor? Hopefully the other places will call back with better prices, or I'll definately be doing it myself.

Mike B

Yup, what's the word I'm looking for...Hmmm, ... "Insane" ... absolutely do it yourself...I would recommemd the 9201 frustrating tension tool though...Other than that is pretty easy...The factory and Haynes manual help so I would get them if you don't have them already...

You can do it, Holler if you need help!

Bones944

I dunno, the seal job can be a major PITA depending on how things choose to come off. Lots more labor involved in the seal replacemant. Especially that &%$%&*(@ cheesehead bolt that typically strips and has to be ground off.

83na944

Haynes manual is good. Also Pasha article in Excellence. Get the 9201 tool plus a flywheel lock, good 24mm socket, balance shaft sprocket tool, torque wrench and the longest breaker bar you can find.

If you're just replaceing belts, you can skip removing the crankshaft pulley, which will save a lot of time. Just CAREFULLY twist the belts (as little as possible) past the crankshaft pulley.

dk944s2

Good advice, all. I recommend a 6-point 24-mm deep socket for the crank bolt (depth is just right; normal-depth socket plus my smallest extension was too long), and a hugh-jongously large breaker bar, because it seems with corrosion and such it takes about 300 ft-lb to break it loose, even though torque spec is something like 155 ft-lb. A little anti-seize compound is highly recommended on reassembly!

Good luck!

Olli Snellman

originally wrote by 83na944
[quote]Haynes manual is good <hr></blockquote>

that manual is total grab! it explains to tension the belts with paint & drills.
Get factory manual insted.Still downloadable from some of us

Olli
'88 951