Brake Flush with speed bleeders. New SS brake lines
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Orange County, CA
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I am installing speed bleeders and new brake lines this weekend. I would also like to flush all old brake fluid out. I have a couple questions.
Do I pump the brakes with the car running or not?
Is there any tricks to installing either of these items? Speed bleeders? Brake Lines?
I am trying to learn from you all that have done this before. I got great help from this forum on intalling the new rotors, thanks.
Do I pump the brakes with the car running or not?
Is there any tricks to installing either of these items? Speed bleeders? Brake Lines?
I am trying to learn from you all that have done this before. I got great help from this forum on intalling the new rotors, thanks.
#2
Geaux Tigers!
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Don't even attempt the job without a good set of flare wrenchs. If you can use ATE Blue fluid. I pumped about a quart all the way through. Do the back passenger side first, the back drivers side next and the front passenger side third then the drivers side front. Gently tap on the caliper wiht a rubber mallet to help release the bubbles (again gently/just enough to massage it). Be patient, I find the brakes on these cars harder to bleed than a normal car.
#5
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You can bleed with the car off but if you want it on that is fine also - you will have the power assist squirting the fluid out quicker.
If you have ABS the brake bleeding order mentioned is probably off as the ABS unit is on the right forward wheel well. I've never actually sat down and measured out line lengths but the longest probably is to left rear, then right rear, left front and finally right front. Anyway, that is the order I bleed my ABS.
One reason to use the ATE Blue fluid is you can see very easy when you are getting new fluid through the line. Then you switch to a clear or ATE Gold the next time. If you already bought clear for this job just make sure you watch the fluid color closely or you are going to waste a lot by over purging. A quart/liter is enough to do the job but as your first time you may want some spare fluid.
If you have a manual transmission you want to purge the clutch system also. This is much harder if things don't go perfect and if you get any air in it you have trouble as the bleeder nipple on the slave is not at the top of the cylinder. Motive pressure bleeder comes in handy here. You can get a wrench up on the slave bleeder nipple without removing the starter, but it is tight.
If you have ABS the brake bleeding order mentioned is probably off as the ABS unit is on the right forward wheel well. I've never actually sat down and measured out line lengths but the longest probably is to left rear, then right rear, left front and finally right front. Anyway, that is the order I bleed my ABS.
One reason to use the ATE Blue fluid is you can see very easy when you are getting new fluid through the line. Then you switch to a clear or ATE Gold the next time. If you already bought clear for this job just make sure you watch the fluid color closely or you are going to waste a lot by over purging. A quart/liter is enough to do the job but as your first time you may want some spare fluid.
If you have a manual transmission you want to purge the clutch system also. This is much harder if things don't go perfect and if you get any air in it you have trouble as the bleeder nipple on the slave is not at the top of the cylinder. Motive pressure bleeder comes in handy here. You can get a wrench up on the slave bleeder nipple without removing the starter, but it is tight.