Pullin the head - progress
03-11-2003, 04:51 AM
#1
Racer
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Pullin the head - progress
So tomorrow I plan on pulling the head in preparation of doing a valve job, timing belt, water pump, oil cooler seals, and front engine seals.
Ordered all the parts (I hope) from Paragon tonight on rush order hehe <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> cause I have a week (till next monday) to get this bad boy up and running.
Any last minute advice for a somewhat newbie mechanic that might make things easier like what not to do hehe <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
After I get her runnin again and put in my steering rack & motor mounts I'll definitely be coming around to some events in Cali even tho she'll be the ugly duckling lol.
Ordered all the parts (I hope) from Paragon tonight on rush order hehe <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" /> cause I have a week (till next monday) to get this bad boy up and running.
Any last minute advice for a somewhat newbie mechanic that might make things easier like what not to do hehe <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
After I get her runnin again and put in my steering rack & motor mounts I'll definitely be coming around to some events in Cali even tho she'll be the ugly duckling lol.
03-11-2003, 08:52 AM
#3
Three Wheelin'
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Joe, you didn't mention anything beyond a valve job but you're might also be interested in ensuring the head is straight (to avoid blowing a gasket later). This is the area that I got a lesson in on the economics of Porsche parts.
Have you ever noticed that there are always a few stray head gaskets being sold (really cheap) on Ebay. That happens because people order a standard gasket set and then while they're waiting for the parts they pull the head and take it in for service. The machinist (the good ones) won't just make a surface cut to get the head back straight, at least not till they check to make sure there is enough material. They're worried about overcutting the head (beyond what Porsche recomends). Overcutting (my term)leads to a variety of serious problems, you'll have to look up the actural tolorances but measuring the head is pretty easy. Theres a good chance that you will need a thicker (than std) head gasket (which mysteriously costs more than the complete std head gasket set). If so, you're left with a std gasket to sell. You might avoid some expense if you can first determine which gasket you will need and then find a vendor who sells the head gasket set with the thicker gasket included. I'm not sure there are any though. Just a little thing to consider...Bruce
Have you ever noticed that there are always a few stray head gaskets being sold (really cheap) on Ebay. That happens because people order a standard gasket set and then while they're waiting for the parts they pull the head and take it in for service. The machinist (the good ones) won't just make a surface cut to get the head back straight, at least not till they check to make sure there is enough material. They're worried about overcutting the head (beyond what Porsche recomends). Overcutting (my term)leads to a variety of serious problems, you'll have to look up the actural tolorances but measuring the head is pretty easy. Theres a good chance that you will need a thicker (than std) head gasket (which mysteriously costs more than the complete std head gasket set). If so, you're left with a std gasket to sell. You might avoid some expense if you can first determine which gasket you will need and then find a vendor who sells the head gasket set with the thicker gasket included. I'm not sure there are any though. Just a little thing to consider...Bruce
03-11-2003, 11:06 PM
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Racer
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Ok so I didnt work on it very long, (woke up late and didnt have a couple parts and took a long break hehe) but so far here's what I've done.
-Set the car to TDC using the OT line on the flywheel.
-Pulled the fuel rail, cap & rotor.
Now tomorrow I have to yank the cam housing and the intake manifold then off comes the head.
The spark plug for hole #1, which had 75 compression was really black and didnt look like it was burning much if at all. The rest looked fine and had good compression (170 i think)
I heard that you have to be careful when pulling the cam housing because the lifters are in there and fall out when you pull it straight up. Any tips on doing this properly?
Also is it a good idea to replace the lifters while i'm replacing the valves and getting a valve job done? Also where's a good place to get these parts at?
Thanks for the help guys <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
-Set the car to TDC using the OT line on the flywheel.
-Pulled the fuel rail, cap & rotor.
Now tomorrow I have to yank the cam housing and the intake manifold then off comes the head.
The spark plug for hole #1, which had 75 compression was really black and didnt look like it was burning much if at all. The rest looked fine and had good compression (170 i think)
I heard that you have to be careful when pulling the cam housing because the lifters are in there and fall out when you pull it straight up. Any tips on doing this properly?
Also is it a good idea to replace the lifters while i'm replacing the valves and getting a valve job done? Also where's a good place to get these parts at?
Thanks for the help guys <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
03-11-2003, 11:12 PM
#5
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">-Set the car to TDC using the OT line on the flywheel.
-Pulled the fuel rail, cap & rotor.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Sounds like my day! I ran 2 wires, soldered 6, heat shrunk them, and sat in my drivers seat doing nothing for 1/2 hour.
Productive!
-Pulled the fuel rail, cap & rotor.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Sounds like my day! I ran 2 wires, soldered 6, heat shrunk them, and sat in my drivers seat doing nothing for 1/2 hour.
Productive!