Bri Bro

If someone put hardsetting locktight on the bolt, it will require a little heat too.

Hans

[quote]..someone put hardsetting locktight.. <hr></blockquote>Could be some sealing compouns as well, these people do exist....
Next possible try:
Heat up the plug (NOT the alu casing) a bit using an very small torch or preferably an very high watted (500W or so) electric soldering iron.
(less chance on setting something on fire and more control over the heat flow)
The plug will now expand a bit and force the aluminum out. Let it cool off a bit, helping with a wet rag (the plug only). The plug will schrink (hopefully) a little faster than the alu and while still warm you might be able to get it out.
Plug probably requires replacement when you are ready.

Alarm me when the thread in the box is stripped. I have a very good way out for that one.
TakeCare

IceShark

All good ideas, Impact wrench will probably do it, then heat. Don't monkey around and split that thin sidewall of the plug.

When you put it back in use some teflon tape on the threads. This is a plumber's tapered fitting. Hans doesn't like this idea but never explained why. I've been doing it for over 10 years with no problems.

Hans

Hi IceShark, good morning.
I explained this PTFE tape thing only once before but you must have missed it so:

The plug is european style BSP-T pipe thread of some kind. This means that:
- The Fem thread in the tranny is parrallel
- The male thread on the plug is tapered.
This means that the first pitch of the tread on the plug is not sealing to the fem thread.
The PTFE tape, when compressed between the threads will flow (like as if melted) and form a gasket filling the tolerance in the thread.
The surplus applied will cut off at the first thread that engages in full. The cut off bit will start a life of its own and will end-up (as per Murphy) were it will harm most. I guess it will take you a split second to dream up minimum 5 potential spots for this to happen.

USA style NPT thread (both male & fem tapered) is slightly better: the PTFE tape dwarfs cut off will be somewhat smaller. (I dont know if that can be considered an advantage though).

Of course, if you dont tape the first few pitches of the thread and only use 2 layers, you might be safe, but you are never sure.
And generally the standard plummer practice is a lot of tape, hanging over on all sides and that is what the un-experienced will copy

Note: the thread "as is" is supposed to seal without any aid anyway. Seizing of the plug is mostly caused by high torque. So tape should not be needed anyway.
I can understand the desire for some extra safety, and tape could provide that.

The above is no theory, if you could lay your hands on standard practices of an average refinery for applying tape, you will be left with the impression that you can graduate on the subject and will be too scared to use it even for the water tap.
TakeCare

IceShark

OK, now I understand your point of view. I didn't realize that the female in the case was a straight thread, never looked that close and just assumed it was tapered. No wonder these plugs get jammed.

I usually put on a single wrap with an overlap and start it back from the leading edge of the male plug. I was doing it more for anti-seize than sealing. Guess I better rethink this and use anti-seize paste the next time I refill.

PCinDC

Okay then here's a question - My drain plug on my 84 is totally stripped (thanks PO) and I have been wanting to change the tranny fluid. This one came up a few years ago but honestly I forgot about it until I read this thread. I've topped it off via the fill plug (which came off fairly easily in comparison), but still I would like to see what kind of shape the fluid is in, if there is any metal shavings in it etc. Also with 110K miles on it it probaly needs it anyway. What do I do with a stripped plug? Drill it out? Is it still possible to get it out without this using one of the aforementioned techniques?
A 17mm Hex wrench turns freely (no grip at all) in the plug.

Help?

Paul

1984 944
1987 944

Paul C 944

Take the fill plug out and siphon it out from the fill hole! <img src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" border="0" alt="[cheers]" /> Use redline synthetic,you will be surprised by the difference.

Flat Six Addict

Try tightening it first. I have a 27 year old truck that seems to like that aproach much better. The bolts usually come loose. Try Aerokroil (don't know what PB Blaster is) can get it at AutoZone, places like that. I had to use it on the Pittman steering arm on my truck to get the nut loose and then let it sit for a little while to break up the corrosion. But it worked and with minimal elbow grease!!!

IceShark

That is a problem but not too bad as you can still move the car to get help.

There was an old thread where we brain stormed on ideas. You want to avoid drilling a hole in the plug (for an "easy out" extractor) due to metal shavings getting in the case. Between a punch and cold chisel you may be able to make a new spot in the side of the plug and unscrew it driving with the punch.

Another scarey idea is to weld a bolt to the plug and then unscrew using the bolt. After that little welding operation that plug is going to be as loose as it will ever get.

Toolmaster

Hey all -

Another way to accomplish this whole thing is to buy a new plug (cause we're about to destroy the old one) and do the following.

1) Get a decent "throw - away" 17mm hex
2) Mix up some JB Weld, and glue the wrench into the hole that's stripped.
3) Wait a couple hours.
4) Remove the plug, as it's now welded to the wrench you just put in there.

HTH!

PCinDC

Well, I don't have a welder handy so I think the last idea sounds best to me. I also was very skeptical about drilling it due to metal shavings in the transmission, and this idea sounds like it is the least dangerous to the car. Once the wrench is JB Welded in place, would you all recommend using some of the Penetrating lube or PB Blaster or whatever, or could this compromise the chemical bond between the wrench and the bolt?

Thanks to all...


Paul

Toolmaster

Paul -

USe whatever you'd like after the JB Weld has set. It's tough stuff.

HTH! And good luck!

IceShark

Yeah, use whatever you want afterwards as it will take most anything petroleum based. This is a good idea that didn't come up before.

You might want to make some "teeth" on the sides of the plug with a cold chisel so the JB Weld has something to really grab onto. And use lots of acetone to clean out the plug. I'd also let it sit overnight to cure to full strength. You only want to do this once.

FormulaOne10

Air Impact wrench with a 17.5mm insert using a 1/2" drive. Tried everything else and even with a partially stripped bolt, that worked. If you have to, go to Sears and get a 17mm allen wrench and then cut off part of it and make your own tool using a 17 mm socket and the insert.