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Stripped Rad-Fan switch & brass insert?

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Old 10-20-2009, 09:25 PM
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NYFlapjack2
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Default Stripped Rad-Fan switch & brass insert?

1983 N/A 944 5 speed w/AC. Been out messing around in the dark after dinner, and shoot if I didn't have to push it in garage and she'll sit a spell now....why does the simple stuff bite you!

While R&R the fan switch to a lower temp one I either pulled the m22x1.5 plastic threads with the old one or stripped them installing the new switch......it is all plastic thread only style -cut in that side tank ...it didn't offer any resistance as it tightened ... oh great!!!

Been searching & it seems from some threads & photos maybe later ones have a brass insert from the inside, guessing you insert if from the rad hose hole above it ..maybe I can mod mine to fix?..Is that accurate? I have machine shop access, if need be....

Does any one have a scrap rad with the later brass insert they can pop out of the tank & send me?

And guess the best thoughts on rad buys in Syracuse NY, anyone have a used good complete one to sell..... ?

Looked at helicoil type repair but for the $$ difference...welll small so then again probably got to just buck up & buy a new one huh?

OK fried ... need an adult beverage.....- David
Old 10-21-2009, 05:41 PM
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NYFlapjack2
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Default Wish I had a couple M22x1.5 helicols to play with

Not looking like MSC or McMasters has as common stock... ideas?
Old 10-21-2009, 09:38 PM
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spoolinturbo
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i stripped mine before, i used thread tape and it was good to go.
Old 10-22-2009, 01:05 PM
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Default YES tape - grow the diameter some...

Thanks for the idea...I'm up for that - 5 or 6 wraps of PTFE tape on the agenda tonight as well the thoughts of a strap of .032" SS safety spun wire.
(I've got tools & that hardware in stock as I crew chief my avatar too...)

Maybe if I were to wrap a loop around the tank, through the fin pack, and over the top of the rad switch between the terminals perhaps I can strap (clamp over switch) hold from popping back out of place....just thinking from work...car is home...so well see..

Finally stay tuned for those who are following the thread.....as I have more up my sleeve in mind...

I have harvested out the guts off of the old switch .... I've lathed off the spun brass top assembly clamp & separated the brass turning from the internal thermal fan switch workings....AHHH I see what makes this tick now.... OH I got me an idea...perm fix...less cobby...and there is JB weld involved on the end..my favorite!

Last edited by NYFlapjack2; 10-22-2009 at 09:42 PM.
Old 10-22-2009, 01:07 PM
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bearone
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"crew chief" or a&p mechanic or just mechanic?
Old 10-22-2009, 07:25 PM
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spoolinturbo
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im a crewchief active duty, and i have my a&p cert

never crewed a prop before, some look hella cool though!
Old 10-22-2009, 08:36 PM
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Mike C.
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I was just thinking 'epoxy that sucker in there' but you beat me to it....
Old 10-22-2009, 09:41 PM
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Default Here's the prototype

There is a lot of stuff in the photo attached. This is my prototype R&D.
Since everything came in 2... I await the (82 degree) Beck/Arnley Radiator Fan Switch Part No. 201-1545 I have on order...
From the second parts I have left over I plan to make the low temp one I want from that ....

Key to photo:
# 1..that brass "toe nail" is from the lathe, it is the kerf- as we removed that which was the rolled top ... same off both fan switch styles shown.

#2 Wahler brand new low temp (75 degree) one I installed & lost the threads in the plastic side tank on the car radiator. I couldn't disassemble further and didn't know it wasn't a bimetallic spring inside there...When I soldered it the toilet bolt to base I went too long heating & it popped its fluid and thus ruined...so the Wahler brand may not work for this modification.

#3.... I hope-believe is the same as the Beck/Arnley and was my OEM switch which read 92/87 ...when trimmed to open ...all parts came out so the brass socket was easily soldered with our worry of melting something.

# 4 is the brass (not steel - brass plated) toilet bolt which was easily soldered with my plumbing propane torch, flux & pipe solder.

#5 is all the guts out of the #4 switch. Pay attention to the bimetallic disc orientation.

#6 the 1/16 roll pins I will side drill & lock it all back together then JB weld to finalize seal it up.

The toilet bolt has been trimmed to exactly & only as long needed to fold the wings in and fit in the tank (I hope ...measurements are close....) Saturday will be the fit up day of the prototype in the car....in fact it probably will be in there for a few weeks while I make the other one & get to a free weekend to do a replacement.

Looks like the seal on the tank to switch is flat and by that ring gasket ...kinda like a oil drain plug seal... The 22x1.5mm switch threads don't appear as tapered`pipe.

So as I install the switch like a wall molly in drywall I plan to spin it in place and snug it up with toggle from the back side applying the pull & pressure to seal.... to hell with those tank plastic threads now! I think I will use Teflon tape and a film of silicone on the gasket ring anyhow.

If & when I remove a fan switch again and I can't get a wire in there to grab the toggle part ..well the toggle may fall inside the tank, where I am betting it will be fine as I don't think it can go any further anywhere in the system....that is OK I got 2.

Total parts shown under $ 10 bucks from building hardware store. + costs of switch.....
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Old 10-23-2009, 05:40 AM
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murrayg
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I had the same problem with mine 2 years ago...JB Weld rocks!!

Gord.



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