mike10562004

did my clutch master and slave saturday

cm= $125.00 advance autoif you want it now if not order from online
cs= $85.00 advance too


save you $40.00 on the hose and just get high pressure fuel line hose i did it to my car and it works great plus it was only $1.85

jtsporsche

dmalo810
i have never rebuilt a brake caliper, or anything for that matter, if i rebuild the master and slave, will it be pretty clear on what to do?

and id hate to spend the money, but im considering just replacing everything with new, so HOPEFULLY ill never have to worry about this again.

JohnKoaWood

If you suspect there has EVER been water in the brake fluid (have you ever bled your brakes and seen brown fluid come out?) than it is most adviseable to just replace everything with new OEM parts... the inside bores of the master and slave are machined to tollerance, and have a habit of coroding...

Now if you are on a tight budget, and don't mind having to do it again in a few months time, rebuilds are an option, and if you can open a can of skettios you can handle a rebuild... snap ring, pull it apart, clean it all up, install new bits, reassemble... usually takes about 20 minutes or so to do the rebuild, BUT if there is any damage to the inside bores, the rebuild won't last long...

jtsporsche

i have never bled the brakes before so i dont know, but the fluid is still nice and blue.

pelican only has a slave cylinder rebuild kit, no master...

JohnKoaWood

it appears that rock auto has 2 different ones.. might be who no one else is willing to cary them...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1263574k482812

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0717611
MAJOR;Contains Piston, Dust Boots Not Included


and..no longer available..


hmmm..interesting....

jtsporsche

i've decided to just go buy a new slave tomorrow.
if that doesnt fix the problem, then ill get a new master cylinder also.
after i replace it, will i need to bleed the system? (never done it before so i dont know how)

JohnKoaWood

Yes you will need to bleed the system after replacing either master or slave...

jtsporsche

what is the "bleed nipple" on the slave?
also, is it ok to top off the fluid with another kind of brake fluid?

krystar

what is it? it's just like a brake bleeder. either a 7 or 8mm hex.

be sure to unhook the battery as you will be working in close proximity to the starter harness and the body. u don't want to arc weld your wrench to the car (ask me how i know)

JohnKoaWood

it is the bleed valve sticking out of the back of the cylinder..

NO, you shouldn't top off unknown fluid with a different type of fluid... this is a great time to do the recommended ANUAL brake / clutch fluid change... Yes it is recommended to change allt eh fluid out once a year!

JohnKoaWood

7mm... good recall

jtsporsche

i know about unhooking the battery, who hasnt made their own fireworks show before?

i just ordered 1 litre of ATE super blue from pelican, i believe thats what i have now. how do i get all of the old fluid out and put more in? just keep pouring in the new stuf as the old stuff comes out of the slave cylinder?

krystar

i only remember cause i was just bleeding my brakes the other day heh. annoyingly though, my rear bleeders are 7mm. my fronts are 8mm.

krystar

yea pretty much. if yer old fluid is amber (or was amber at one time) and yer using super blue, it'll start coming out dirty amber....then streak of green..then eventually all pure blue.

JohnKoaWood

Brakes should all be 8mm, the clutch is the odd one out... part of the winter round is going to be speed bleeder valves on everything! I already use my Motive power bleeder on the cars, and I love it...Motive PB, speed valves and some silicone vacuum line dropped into a gallon water bottle... fluid change out is done in 20 minutes or so!