Fender Removal
#2
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From: Under Your Car
There are 3 in the rear fenderwell as well, covered by undercoating. Also, the fender is held to the body under those screws by some sticky substance (may be additional undercoating), so you will have to carefully peel the fender free. I use a putty knife to separate them.
#4
It's body seam sealer, helps to keep dirt, moisture, etc, which will cause rust from finding a home between your fender and body. Also helps quiet things done a little. And yes it's a biatch to remove like all German glues seem to be.
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#9
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From: behind enemy lines <REDACTED>
The secret to getting those bolts off the front fender is heat. Get a little fire starter (like you would use to start a grill) and heat the area where those bolts are for 10-20 seconds, you can scrape it with a blade or screwdriver but the most effective way is cutting through it with a utility knife. Make some parallel cuts close together, then undercut at an angle to remove the coating. Once the very top of the head of the bolt is exposed, heat the socket- get it nice and hot- and it will sink right through the coating and you'll be able to unscrew the bolt easily. You can use a utility knife and more heat to cut through some of the excess at the seam of the fender and chassis. You are still going to have to pry the fender off (MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ALL THE BOLTS OFF!), it will suddenly POP and you're all set. You should be able to get a fender off in 10 or 15 minutes once you get it the process down.