Advice on looking @ / buying a 924S that has been "sitting idle for 2 years".
#18
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I would check the oil level first, ask how old the gas is (obviously 2yrs old, but fishing to see if they put some kind of stabil in), put the charger on, and most likely pull the fuel pump relay to crank it for a while to build oil pressure. If you just pull an ignition wire you might be dumping excess fuel into the cyl. Take a good look around the block for oil leaks, the rear cam seal and power steering are common leaks. If you drive it make sure the clutch holds well, a start from 3rd gear should stall the car if the clutch is healthy. I'm also told most timing belts break on start up, so I would look in the inspection hole on the front cover to see if the belt looks real old. I'm sure you realize a PPI on any used 944 should be worth about 1k in maintenance bargaining minimum!
- or go buy the running '88 for 3k and get the better engine anyway!
- or go buy the running '88 for 3k and get the better engine anyway!
#19
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just move on and wait for a good running example. if it is a 924S you want you may have to wait a little longer than for a 944.
#21
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#22
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You do not want to jump the battery to start the engine. You could fry the DME. I would not try to start the engine with 2 year old fuel as it has set up for too long. The fuel will smell like varnish, and could make the fuel pump check valve stick closed causing fuel pump failure. Plus it will gum up the injectors and fuel filter. The fuel should be drained. To prevent piston ring seizure/breakage, remove the spark plugs and spray a little WD-40 into each cylinder and let it set for a day before turning the engine over. The owner should be willing to do this or take money off the asking price. I bought a non-running 944 that had setup for over 18 months because it would not start. I did all the above prior to starting the car. I lucked out as it only needed an Ignition Module, new check valve and fuel filter all for less than $100. The PO and his Porsche mechanic had replaced just about everything and still could not get it to fire and could not figure out why. I could not ask for a better running car to mess around in.
Cheers,
Larry
Cheers,
Larry
#23
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For sure someone should supply a known working battery which can't be that hard to arrange. I would bring a few gallons of 94. I would pull the fuel pump relay and crank the sucker over a few times after checking the oil level as already suggested.
Once it's running let it idle for 20 minutes and then go for a long ride. At least 1/2 hour. Your still looking at a total belt job I would think unless the seller has exact records.
Once it's running let it idle for 20 minutes and then go for a long ride. At least 1/2 hour. Your still looking at a total belt job I would think unless the seller has exact records.
#24
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Get that 88 if you can! if its up to date on maint/belts and such its worth it. Good color too.
I got my 87 for 1200 and it had been sitting for about 6 months, much longer and it would have been a lot worse i think. I was able to fire it right up and drive it though and that it what sealed the deal for me.
I got my 87 for 1200 and it had been sitting for about 6 months, much longer and it would have been a lot worse i think. I was able to fire it right up and drive it though and that it what sealed the deal for me.
#25
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For sure someone should supply a known working battery which can't be that hard to arrange. I would bring a few gallons of 94. I would pull the fuel pump relay and crank the sucker over a few times after checking the oil level as already suggested.
Once it's running let it idle for 20 minutes and then go for a long ride. At least 1/2 hour. Your still looking at a total belt job I would think unless the seller has exact records.
Once it's running let it idle for 20 minutes and then go for a long ride. At least 1/2 hour. Your still looking at a total belt job I would think unless the seller has exact records.
And the gas is for what?
Setting it on fire if it won't start?
(-%
tino
#26
Race Director
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I just got a NA running that sat for 2 years. It needed a new fuel pump to get running. Then I replaced water pump, all belts, all rollers, changing the oil a few times, flushed all fluids and replaced every filter. Besides one time leaving me stranded (fuel filter) It has been driving 60 miles a day for a month so far..
#27
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I bought a 924 that "sat idle for 10 years" and it was said the car would start if all the basics got done and it got a new battery and the "rubber parts got replaced".
In reality:
- ALL the belts needed replaced. Any plastic/rubber/flexible part that sits that long is going to crack and weather, garaged or not, it's cheap insurance.
- Fuel is no good.
- Oil is questionable, flush it.
- Radiator, flush it.
- Tranny fluid, flush it.
- Battery, Change it.
- Check all your radiator hoses for cracks, if there are any, replace them. Pull the metal tubing while you're at it and look down to see if there is ANY rust, if there is, replace it.
- Wiring, if it sat in the elements, check your wiring and fuse box for corrosion. If it was garaged it's probably fine but check it anyway.
- Fuel system can/may be/might be/likely will/ have old crap in it that can cause it to be clogged, things can rust, will need to be babied and milked with starter fluid potentially to get the engine running and flush the old crap out. This also includes your fuel filter and pump, both of which may be gummed up or full of crap.
- Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, wires should be replaced with that age and idle since they probably have fine cracks and insulation is probably going to wear from sitting that long with nothing ran through it. Check the cap and rotor for ANY corrosion, replace it if there is. Check plugs too. Again, little penetrating oil down there before you try and pull them, just a hair of penetrating oil on the top of the plugs, just a tiny spray, let it sit for a day, then pull them.
- Your weatherstripping and hatch seals, check them, your hatch can be repaired easily with some careful fingers (covered in rubber gloves) and some 3M Window-weld if it's leaking, the door stripping etc will need replaced if it's old and worn out.
- Wheel bearings, check'em for sure. Anything that has sat for a given amount of time probably looks like the black plague inside.
Highly recommended to spray penetrating oil down the cylinders in case any rust built up around the rings, I did mine over the course of days, spray a hair, let it sit, spray a hair, let it sit, spray a hair, let it sit, then turn her on and let her run.
If you can check all these things, regardless if it's 2 years or 10 years, and really run through her and make sure it's all done right you will be okay.
Mine went from this:
![](http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd58/koihoshi/porsche/cid_978.jpg)
Back to on the road:
In reality:
- ALL the belts needed replaced. Any plastic/rubber/flexible part that sits that long is going to crack and weather, garaged or not, it's cheap insurance.
- Fuel is no good.
- Oil is questionable, flush it.
- Radiator, flush it.
- Tranny fluid, flush it.
- Battery, Change it.
- Check all your radiator hoses for cracks, if there are any, replace them. Pull the metal tubing while you're at it and look down to see if there is ANY rust, if there is, replace it.
- Wiring, if it sat in the elements, check your wiring and fuse box for corrosion. If it was garaged it's probably fine but check it anyway.
- Fuel system can/may be/might be/likely will/ have old crap in it that can cause it to be clogged, things can rust, will need to be babied and milked with starter fluid potentially to get the engine running and flush the old crap out. This also includes your fuel filter and pump, both of which may be gummed up or full of crap.
- Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, wires should be replaced with that age and idle since they probably have fine cracks and insulation is probably going to wear from sitting that long with nothing ran through it. Check the cap and rotor for ANY corrosion, replace it if there is. Check plugs too. Again, little penetrating oil down there before you try and pull them, just a hair of penetrating oil on the top of the plugs, just a tiny spray, let it sit for a day, then pull them.
- Your weatherstripping and hatch seals, check them, your hatch can be repaired easily with some careful fingers (covered in rubber gloves) and some 3M Window-weld if it's leaking, the door stripping etc will need replaced if it's old and worn out.
- Wheel bearings, check'em for sure. Anything that has sat for a given amount of time probably looks like the black plague inside.
Highly recommended to spray penetrating oil down the cylinders in case any rust built up around the rings, I did mine over the course of days, spray a hair, let it sit, spray a hair, let it sit, spray a hair, let it sit, then turn her on and let her run.
If you can check all these things, regardless if it's 2 years or 10 years, and really run through her and make sure it's all done right you will be okay.
Mine went from this:
![](http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd58/koihoshi/porsche/cid_978.jpg)
Back to on the road:
![](http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd58/koihoshi/porsche/DSC_0321.jpg)
#28
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Thanks all for the great advice.
Saturday I'm going to look at the '88. If that doesn't pan out, I'm going to take a look at the non-running '87. If it looks in solid state, I may make an offer (below $2k for sure) and just have it towed to my mechanic to have it brought back to life. ..maybe. Big "if" there.
FYI the '88 doesn't have a lot of history, but I know it has had a new "top end" due to broken belts and the subsequent bent valves, etc. There are some red flags (broken odo anyone?) but on other levels seems to be a straight car. We'll see....
Saturday I'm going to look at the '88. If that doesn't pan out, I'm going to take a look at the non-running '87. If it looks in solid state, I may make an offer (below $2k for sure) and just have it towed to my mechanic to have it brought back to life. ..maybe. Big "if" there.
FYI the '88 doesn't have a lot of history, but I know it has had a new "top end" due to broken belts and the subsequent bent valves, etc. There are some red flags (broken odo anyone?) but on other levels seems to be a straight car. We'll see....
#29
Three Wheelin'
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The only time non-runners work out is when you get them for thousands below market (not possible on an N/A, as it's not worth enough - unless the seller is going to pay you), you do the work yourself, or possibly both.
Edit: example: I got mine for $1200. It barely ran, but I was able to drive it home (I didn't anyway - I flat bedded it just in case). Not counting paint and the interior, I have another $2k in it. If I were to have paid for the labor to get those $2k worth of parts installed, I would have to guess another $3 to 4k on top of that. So let's say that makes it $5k. For that price, I could have gotten a fairly minty running-condition car that needed little if anything at all. Add in another $1500 worth of paint (materials only) and interior (got a great deal on it) and I'm looking at the golden 944 rule: Every N/A is a $7000 car. If you spend less, it will bill you in installments for the remainder.
#30
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...most likely its a moot point if that '88 is worthy of purchasing.
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