Stuck on the side of the road right now with a car that won't start.
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Stuck on the side of the road right now with a car that won't start.
Posting from my phone.
86' 951 was running great then just died and won't restart.
Have been searching the forum and checking things for the last 2hours and still no luck. Car cranks, tries to start but just won't.
- new timing belt, still tight and clean.
-getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail
-tried both DME and jumper.
-tach needel bounces when trying to start, boost gauge reads just below 1 bar when key is turned on.
-wiggled ref and speed wires
-all boost and vac lines in good shape and in tact.
-brand new IMI gear reduction starter cranks fine, engine is under load (not free spoolinf like bent valves)
-checked all fuses, all good.
Your welcome to call as long as this post is up if you see something I missed. 303 359 7469.
Cole
86' 951 was running great then just died and won't restart.
Have been searching the forum and checking things for the last 2hours and still no luck. Car cranks, tries to start but just won't.
- new timing belt, still tight and clean.
-getting fuel pressure to the fuel rail
-tried both DME and jumper.
-tach needel bounces when trying to start, boost gauge reads just below 1 bar when key is turned on.
-wiggled ref and speed wires
-all boost and vac lines in good shape and in tact.
-brand new IMI gear reduction starter cranks fine, engine is under load (not free spoolinf like bent valves)
-checked all fuses, all good.
Your welcome to call as long as this post is up if you see something I missed. 303 359 7469.
Cole
#3
Proprietoristicly Refined
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Cole,
Just a guess since you do not have a lot of tools.
Remove the sensor connectors one at a time, wipe clean and replace. They may be corroded.
Take off the distributer cap and check to see if the rotor is tight
Check the negative ground cable connection at the bell housing.
Check the small ground cable next to the negative ground cable for tightness.
Tap on the DME computer while trying to start-----Also the DME relay, either could have bad wires or solder connections. (Clarks-Garage)
Fuel Vapor lock?
GL
John_AZ
Just a guess since you do not have a lot of tools.
Remove the sensor connectors one at a time, wipe clean and replace. They may be corroded.
Take off the distributer cap and check to see if the rotor is tight
Check the negative ground cable connection at the bell housing.
Check the small ground cable next to the negative ground cable for tightness.
Tap on the DME computer while trying to start-----Also the DME relay, either could have bad wires or solder connections. (Clarks-Garage)
Fuel Vapor lock?
GL
John_AZ
#4
Drifting
Thread Starter
Perfect set of replies.
I had to leave the car to run to a clients. BBQ.
Came back and pulled the cap and the rotor set screw was missing.
Fortunately, the car was parked in a Home Depot parking lot. $0.25 later and it runs like a top.
Beer and wine is on me if you two ever make it to Colorado.
Thanks for the help.
I had to leave the car to run to a clients. BBQ.
Came back and pulled the cap and the rotor set screw was missing.
Fortunately, the car was parked in a Home Depot parking lot. $0.25 later and it runs like a top.
Beer and wine is on me if you two ever make it to Colorado.
Thanks for the help.
#7
Race Car
FYI if the tach is bouncing, you can pretty much eliminate the SR sensors as the culprit in the future.
Good you got it fixed quickly. Since your in Colorado you should stop by some time.
Good you got it fixed quickly. Since your in Colorado you should stop by some time.