I think I messed up....really bad....
03-06-2003 | 02:10 AM
#16
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Joined: May 2002
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Thanks for all the help!
Ok, so I *think* the timing is still ok. With the mark on the cam sprocket visible, I think I can see a timing mark on the flywheel. What I see is a line that runs front-back, and it's definately engraved there. I rotated the engine all the way around, and saw no other marks at all. That's a big relief. <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />
Anyone know of any other sources of the flywheel lock? I really want to be able to drive my car now! Especially after being so close!
Ok, so I *think* the timing is still ok. With the mark on the cam sprocket visible, I think I can see a timing mark on the flywheel. What I see is a line that runs front-back, and it's definately engraved there. I rotated the engine all the way around, and saw no other marks at all. That's a big relief. <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" />
Anyone know of any other sources of the flywheel lock? I really want to be able to drive my car now! Especially after being so close!
03-06-2003 | 02:16 AM
#17
Race Car
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 4,089
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From: $F Bay Area
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by iloveporsches:
<strong>Thanks for all the help!
Ok, so I *think* the timing is still ok. With the mark on the cam sprocket visible, I think I can see a timing mark on the flywheel. What I see is a line that runs front-back, and it's definately engraved there. I rotated the engine all the way around, and saw no other marks at all. That's a big relief. <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">
<strong>Thanks for all the help!
Ok, so I *think* the timing is still ok. With the mark on the cam sprocket visible, I think I can see a timing mark on the flywheel. What I see is a line that runs front-back, and it's definately engraved there. I rotated the engine all the way around, and saw no other marks at all. That's a big relief. <img border="0" alt="[thumbsup]" title="" src="graemlins/bigok.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">
03-06-2003 | 06:02 PM
#20
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I'll check t see if we have any rope long enough tommorow, I have work tonight. Is anyone against that idea? I'd like to save some time/ money and just get this done.
Oh, by the way, I thought I'd mention something I thought of today. Whenever I read stories about removing the crankshaft pulley bolt, people always say their breaker bar shattered/ cracked. The breaker bar I was using was my great-grandfather's, so I'm guessing around 1950. It's still in good shape, even after this incident.
"They just don't build 'em like they used to."
Oh, by the way, I thought I'd mention something I thought of today. Whenever I read stories about removing the crankshaft pulley bolt, people always say their breaker bar shattered/ cracked. The breaker bar I was using was my great-grandfather's, so I'm guessing around 1950. It's still in good shape, even after this incident.
"They just don't build 'em like they used to."
03-06-2003 | 10:11 PM
#21
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 26,395
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From: Ontario
I think you folks that tackle big kobs loke clutches are really brave. I have to do my clutch in a few week s and I'm pretty hands on but this ones got to go to the pros. I'd rather work a bit harder at my day job than risk screwing up my major toy. But to the brave !! good luck.
03-07-2003 | 12:23 AM
#23
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Joined: May 2002
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From: Seattle, WA, USA
I’ve almost mistakenly done this exact thing after working on my car!
Given that the crankshaft pulley has a large cotter (key) in there, I think its unlikely that the crank and the cam would lose synchronization simply because the crank bolt is loosened in this fashion.
Still - double check alignment using the prescribed method before starting the car:
<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-06.htm" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-06.htm</a>
I have actually seen people recommend this approach to loosen the crank pulley bolt (on an Alfa Forum) if it is extremely tight… so don't stress about this too much!
One thing you might consider is changing the timing belt as the jolt might have potentially weakened it.
Cheers,
Michael
Given that the crankshaft pulley has a large cotter (key) in there, I think its unlikely that the crank and the cam would lose synchronization simply because the crank bolt is loosened in this fashion.
Still - double check alignment using the prescribed method before starting the car:
<a href="http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-06.htm" target="_blank">http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-06.htm</a>
I have actually seen people recommend this approach to loosen the crank pulley bolt (on an Alfa Forum) if it is extremely tight… so don't stress about this too much!
One thing you might consider is changing the timing belt as the jolt might have potentially weakened it.
Cheers,
Michael
03-07-2003 | 12:59 AM
#24
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Timing's been verified and triple-checked. I'm 99.99% sure that it's still lined up.
The belts are brand new, less than 500 miles. I think they should be good to go, but I'll have the shop check them out when they retension (I have a free one owed to me).
The belts are brand new, less than 500 miles. I think they should be good to go, but I'll have the shop check them out when they retension (I have a free one owed to me).
03-07-2003 | 06:06 AM
#26
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 6,119
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From: Orange County, CA
i agree with JDietz -
I've used the clothesline trick two times on my Celica, and it did fine. Only way to tighten it down, without the expensive tools. A friend of mine's father showed me that, he uses it when they work on the Cessna (Airplane) engine.
But it must be one length, and soft rope, like nylon, and must not be plastic wrapped! I usually buy a whole clothesline, use part of it, and then toss it later.
But his dad had me turn it 1/4 turn past TDC, fill the spark plug hole up with the line, until it couldn't take anymore, leaving the rest hanging out, THEN crank it back 1/4 turn after it's full, so it's back to TDC, then tighten the crank bolt down.
Then I went past TDC by 1/4 turn, and pulled the line out.
He said the 1/4 turn was necessary, as to make sure the line compresses enough to not be too loose and give during the procedure, so you DON"T damage the valves.
You be the judge, I'm just a girl, lol!
Good luck!
Julie
I've used the clothesline trick two times on my Celica, and it did fine. Only way to tighten it down, without the expensive tools. A friend of mine's father showed me that, he uses it when they work on the Cessna (Airplane) engine.
But it must be one length, and soft rope, like nylon, and must not be plastic wrapped! I usually buy a whole clothesline, use part of it, and then toss it later.
But his dad had me turn it 1/4 turn past TDC, fill the spark plug hole up with the line, until it couldn't take anymore, leaving the rest hanging out, THEN crank it back 1/4 turn after it's full, so it's back to TDC, then tighten the crank bolt down.
Then I went past TDC by 1/4 turn, and pulled the line out.
He said the 1/4 turn was necessary, as to make sure the line compresses enough to not be too loose and give during the procedure, so you DON"T damage the valves.
You be the judge, I'm just a girl, lol!
Good luck!
Julie
03-07-2003 | 12:03 PM
#27
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,306
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From: NW Calgary, Canada
The clothesline trick will work, no doubt, BUT if you're going to be doing this more than once, why not get the correct tools and not have to worry about bending valves, compressing the clothesline,etc? This seems like being penny wise and pound foolish. It's less than $40 for the proper Porsche flywheel lock. It's also nice to know that your engine is at TDC throughout the entire process.
Just my opinion.
Dal.
Just my opinion.
Dal.
