driver wiper arm
#1
driver wiper arm
Looking at the 2nd arm that I need to replace.
Is this normal? this one lasted about a year, same... drivers arm
AFAIK the passenger has never had any probs
Am I fitting it wrong ?
I know I had to heat it gently in order to get it to snap onto the balljoint. Do I need to p[ack it with grease ?
thanks in advance
Is this normal? this one lasted about a year, same... drivers arm
AFAIK the passenger has never had any probs
Am I fitting it wrong ?
I know I had to heat it gently in order to get it to snap onto the balljoint. Do I need to p[ack it with grease ?
thanks in advance
#3
Rennlist Member
No grease should be needed. This is a splined application. What exactly is happening? You should not have to heat anything. There are plastic parts in there that won't take to the heat very well.
#4
hmmm,
it is a ball and socket arrangement, unless I've described the wrong things?
the drivers windscreen wiper arm, one end which is bolted to the Scuttle, there is a ball joint on it. a longish silver linkage which connects that to the wiper motor (one end has a socket type arrangement).
the silver linkage kinda snaps on to the wiper arm, this keeps popping out,
it is happenending very frequntly, especially when the windscreen is dry (before the water hits the surface)
I've replaced it once before and it was a bugger (from new) to snap the 2 together, was told best way to fit it is to apply some heat to the arm either direct or by immersing into boiling water then it snaps easier in.
passenger wiper is fine, only driver do I have an issue with,
it is a ball and socket arrangement, unless I've described the wrong things?
the drivers windscreen wiper arm, one end which is bolted to the Scuttle, there is a ball joint on it. a longish silver linkage which connects that to the wiper motor (one end has a socket type arrangement).
the silver linkage kinda snaps on to the wiper arm, this keeps popping out,
it is happenending very frequntly, especially when the windscreen is dry (before the water hits the surface)
I've replaced it once before and it was a bugger (from new) to snap the 2 together, was told best way to fit it is to apply some heat to the arm either direct or by immersing into boiling water then it snaps easier in.
passenger wiper is fine, only driver do I have an issue with,
#5
Drifting
He's talking about the wiper transmission (at least that's what I've always heard referred to). The part he's referring to is the actuator arm ball/socket assembly that has failed.
Yes, it should have some white lithium grease in the socket. Some greases will attack the plastic/nylon causing it to fail. You shouldn't have to heat it, but warming it slightly with a heat gun may make it slightly more pliable. I've just greased them with lithium and snapped them together - sometimes with the help of a pair of channel-locks. Then again, I take out the assembly when working on them just because it's easier to see what you're doing.
Yes, it should have some white lithium grease in the socket. Some greases will attack the plastic/nylon causing it to fail. You shouldn't have to heat it, but warming it slightly with a heat gun may make it slightly more pliable. I've just greased them with lithium and snapped them together - sometimes with the help of a pair of channel-locks. Then again, I take out the assembly when working on them just because it's easier to see what you're doing.
#6
maybe the heat, wekeneed losen
could try channel locks next time, maybe we call them mole grips/water pump pliers
thing i dont understand is the pass side has always been fine?
could try channel locks next time, maybe we call them mole grips/water pump pliers
thing i dont understand is the pass side has always been fine?
He's talking about the wiper transmission (at least that's what I've always heard referred to). The part he's referring to is the actuator arm ball/socket assembly that has failed.
Yes, it should have some white lithium grease in the socket. Some greases will attack the plastic/nylon causing it to fail. You shouldn't have to heat it, but warming it slightly with a heat gun may make it slightly more pliable. I've just greased them with lithium and snapped them together - sometimes with the help of a pair of channel-locks. Then again, I take out the assembly when working on them just because it's easier to see what you're doing.
Yes, it should have some white lithium grease in the socket. Some greases will attack the plastic/nylon causing it to fail. You shouldn't have to heat it, but warming it slightly with a heat gun may make it slightly more pliable. I've just greased them with lithium and snapped them together - sometimes with the help of a pair of channel-locks. Then again, I take out the assembly when working on them just because it's easier to see what you're doing.
#7
had another look yesterday
yeah its a silver linkage with 2 socket joints
removed one and filled with litihim greese
will se how it works so far so good
thankxs
yeah its a silver linkage with 2 socket joints
removed one and filled with litihim greese
will se how it works so far so good
thankxs
He's talking about the wiper transmission (at least that's what I've always heard referred to). The part he's referring to is the actuator arm ball/socket assembly that has failed.
Yes, it should have some white lithium grease in the socket. Some greases will attack the plastic/nylon causing it to fail. You shouldn't have to heat it, but warming it slightly with a heat gun may make it slightly more pliable. I've just greased them with lithium and snapped them together - sometimes with the help of a pair of channel-locks. Then again, I take out the assembly when working on them just because it's easier to see what you're doing.
Yes, it should have some white lithium grease in the socket. Some greases will attack the plastic/nylon causing it to fail. You shouldn't have to heat it, but warming it slightly with a heat gun may make it slightly more pliable. I've just greased them with lithium and snapped them together - sometimes with the help of a pair of channel-locks. Then again, I take out the assembly when working on them just because it's easier to see what you're doing.