It's pretty easy. Easier then doing the clutch IMO. 10hrs sounds about right

Replace the rod bearings while the engine is out. Might be worth resealing it too

 

Where are you located yummy

 

i'm located in the vancouver B.C area.

I got quoted 14 hours for a swap today by a porsche shop. thats 1400-1500 just in labour. a used engine will cost about 500-700 if I can find one. then about 800 bucks in parts, water pump belts, rollers, gaskets, maybe rod bearings / main bearings... I would have to pay a shop to change out the main and rod bearings because I'm not experienced enough to do make sure its done properly.

so about 3 grand to put in a new engine.....

not sure if its worth fixing. I have a new clutch kit on the old engine also so i'd have to get that swaped over to the new engine also.


this car is freakin costing me too much money. less than a year ago I spent over 2k when my torque tube stripped all its teeth and I had to pay to put in a new torque tube and clutch kit.

when things break with this car its never something minor but some major repair.

on average I think this car so far has cost me about 3 grand a year to keep running and I only drive like 10k a year.

 

this engine is still going though, no knocking or horrible mechanical noises yet so i'm going ot wait until it self destructs before getting a swap.

or maybe I should just junk the car and get something else...

 

Now that is the best advice I have heard since you started posting all the problems with your car.

 

lol I don't think its the car I just think i have real bad luck with it...

first my torque tube stripped its teeth off which I haven't heard of happening to other 944s especially an na with only 150 hp.

then my engine only has 270,000 kms on it and I have always used mobil one changed the belts regularly etc so it should last much longer but my oprv failed and thats what likley caused my bearings to self destruct and now i'm having metal shavings in my oil.

my oprv failed in the winter, what happened was the metal bushing that the oprv rides in came loose from teh block, its glued in there with loctite.

this happened i'm sure because the bushing was steel and it is glued in an aluminum block and the extreme temperatures (engine heating up) and cooling down in the freezing temps of winter caused it to come loose.

I think some of the the parts on this car are designed to fail... like the oprv bushing I don't get why they didn't make a bushing that threads into the block instead of just being press fit into the block with loctite.... doesn't make sense.

 

944 just have problems that it. just part the car or pay chucks of money to fix it. thats it.

 

well actually the failures I've had don't think are common.

not many people have stripped a torque tube.

and oprv bushing failure also seems rare.

 

I seem to find a pattern with you, you assume the worst way to early. You may want to investigate whats going on with the motor thats in your car first.

 

^ what do you mean?

what else can metal shavings in the oil mean?

right now I still have good oil pressure. I switched from catrol syntec to mobil 15/50 and now the car starts up and jumps to 5 bar idle then slowly drops to 2 bar idle and revs to 4.5/5 bar.


in january the car idled for 5-10 minutes with zero oil pressure when my oprv failed while warming up in my garage. when i came in and shut it off I heard the lifters going crazy and the engien sounding horrible so I shut it off. since then its been driven hard for 4000 kms... of course the oil pressure issue was fixed.

however recently when the car sits overnight (not after sitting for a few hours) in teh morning when i come to start it, it takes 2 seconds to get oil pressure so it seems like i'm getting dry starts. I changed the filter thinking the drain back valve was bad but that didn't do anything.


you're right now its possible the the metal shavings could be from something else than the rod bearings, like maybe camshaft bearings, because the top end was being starved of oil real bad.

 

If it were me I would do some investigation.

I would drop the oil pan and check the condition of the rod bearings and see if they are in spec. Its easier and cheaper to do rod bearings than swap the motor. And I would also do a compression test to see what the motors health is at to see if its worth putting new rod bearings into it.

 

yeah don't have time to remove the pan and check the bearings out myself right now.

but like someone else mentioned if hte rod bearings are damaged the main bearings also are likely damaged and that would mean crankshaft has to come out and that means pulling the engine.
and if idlingwithout oil pressure wrecked my rod bearings the the camshaft bearings are probably going ot fail soon also and I don't want to do a full rebuild.


i'm most likely going ot drive the car till it just dies and then look into swapping a new motor in

 

i found a used motor guy is asking 750 for. he says it was running great before removal.says compressio was 160 in each cylinder.

I asked him about the oil pressure and he said it dropped to the middle at idle when warmed up and he said when reved it increased slightly........

that doesn't sound right the oil pressure should increase by a lot when reved, maybe he didn't know what he was talking about.

he said the motor didn't have any noises and nothing wrong with it.

i'm thinking of offering him 500 bucks for the motor.

 

I agree with the guy above.

Why do you worry so much. If you have good oil pressure, which you seem to do, then you have a while before it goes, I would think.

I would ask these questions when the engine has blown up. Maybe you just had some crap in your oil.

 

If your bearings were toast the oil pressure would be lower than normal. Your oil pressure is fine. Don't worry drive the **** out of it.