Electrical Gremlins
08-01-2002, 12:32 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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i did what ice shark said.. STILL no go..
also, the gauges are sparatic when this shortage is taking place. as soon as the power is restored, the gauges are fine. and also, when i hit the switch to turn the headlights on, the gauges all drop really fast.
i checked the dash ground. there were 2 wires bolted to the frame. is that correct?
anything else?
SHAUN
also, the gauges are sparatic when this shortage is taking place. as soon as the power is restored, the gauges are fine. and also, when i hit the switch to turn the headlights on, the gauges all drop really fast.
i checked the dash ground. there were 2 wires bolted to the frame. is that correct?
anything else?
SHAUN
08-01-2002, 05:07 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
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IceShark, Thanks
Wire will go in this weekend.
To make it worse: it will be daisychained to the left front ground in one go.
Yes I will solder, thanks for the tip.
Shaun
Yours is an early one with the old style dash (i am not realy familiar with that one).
There are some more grounds under the dash. Must be. Look at both left & right section above the foor well.
If you are in need of them, wiring diagrams for your year can be found here:http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/electrical/944_electrical_diagrams.htm
Line no 31 is ground , ground wires are allways brown.
TakeCare
Wire will go in this weekend.
To make it worse: it will be daisychained to the left front ground in one go.
Yes I will solder, thanks for the tip.
Shaun
Yours is an early one with the old style dash (i am not realy familiar with that one).
There are some more grounds under the dash. Must be. Look at both left & right section above the foor well.
If you are in need of them, wiring diagrams for your year can be found here:http://www.pelicanparts.com/944/electrical/944_electrical_diagrams.htm
Line no 31 is ground , ground wires are allways brown.
TakeCare
08-01-2002, 11:45 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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[quote]Originally posted by Hans:
<strong>
Shaun
Yours is an early one with the old style dash (i am not realy familiar with that one).</strong><hr></blockquote>
I have a late model.. 1985.5
SHAUN
<strong>
Shaun
Yours is an early one with the old style dash (i am not realy familiar with that one).</strong><hr></blockquote>
I have a late model.. 1985.5
SHAUN
08-01-2002, 12:00 PM
#19
Burning Brakes
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[quote] I have a late model.. 1985.5
<hr></blockquote>Sorry Shaun, no offence. I realy beleved
it was an early one.
(Will stop thinking, will make at least one mistake less then...)
There is an row of M6 grounds under the dash, near the steering column, 3 of them are used in mine. There are two more points in the right foot well for the DMA you might want to look at. There is one M6 on the front engine lug as well.
How is the audio equipment powerd? via separate power supply I hope? The OEM wiring is not too good for todays high watted stuff.
TakeCare
<hr></blockquote>Sorry Shaun, no offence. I realy beleved
it was an early one.
(Will stop thinking, will make at least one mistake less then...)
There is an row of M6 grounds under the dash, near the steering column, 3 of them are used in mine. There are two more points in the right foot well for the DMA you might want to look at. There is one M6 on the front engine lug as well.
How is the audio equipment powerd? via separate power supply I hope? The OEM wiring is not too good for todays high watted stuff.
TakeCare
08-01-2002, 12:51 PM
#20
Pro
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Is it possible the alternator just isn't supplying enough power to everything you are trying to power? If your gauges are dropping when you're turning stuff on, I'd think you have an electricity current supply issue.
08-01-2002, 01:10 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
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We tried running a ground to the block, using jumper cables, then Shaun, cleaned the battery terminals. The horn, sounds whimpy still, and no lights pop up. Shaun, what were you and Travis doing when you were reving the engine in driver, and got better operation from your horn? I never did ask you, but are you getting enough juice from the battery?.I'm sorry to not have spent too much time with you yeterday, but after the poping the headgasket on Ash's car, it was a think tank at the shop.
Why don't you come by today, and we will get together on the problem and give it a real serious going thru. Ok?
Why don't you come by today, and we will get together on the problem and give it a real serious going thru. Ok?
08-06-2002, 05:35 AM
#22
Three Wheelin'
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UPDATE:
the problem is still here. BUT NOW, i have found out that it has something to do with a loose connection. ALL electronics in the car will be running on VERY low power (windows roll up slow, dash lights are dim, no radio, weak gauges) and when i either go over a bump, or slam on my brakes really hard, the power is restored. once the power turns on, it STAYS on and wont go off. i dont even know where to start looking.. anyone?
SHAUN
the problem is still here. BUT NOW, i have found out that it has something to do with a loose connection. ALL electronics in the car will be running on VERY low power (windows roll up slow, dash lights are dim, no radio, weak gauges) and when i either go over a bump, or slam on my brakes really hard, the power is restored. once the power turns on, it STAYS on and wont go off. i dont even know where to start looking.. anyone?
SHAUN
08-06-2002, 06:00 AM
#23
Burning Brakes
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Shaun
you did check (& cleaned) the battery clamps & poles I presume.
You might want to have a look at the connector blocks in the central electric unit (AKA fuse box) and the contacts there.
The VW ancestors used the same type of connector blocks and I have seen burned contacts (& completely melted connnectors)and complete multi pin connectors falling out with those. Might be applicable to yours as well.
The connectors should be accessable from the inside, but I think it is easier to open fise box and take the complete circuit/relay/fuse board out so you have easy acces.
There is an description in the (6 vol) manual.
TakeCare
you did check (& cleaned) the battery clamps & poles I presume.
You might want to have a look at the connector blocks in the central electric unit (AKA fuse box) and the contacts there.
The VW ancestors used the same type of connector blocks and I have seen burned contacts (& completely melted connnectors)and complete multi pin connectors falling out with those. Might be applicable to yours as well.
The connectors should be accessable from the inside, but I think it is easier to open fise box and take the complete circuit/relay/fuse board out so you have easy acces.
There is an description in the (6 vol) manual.
TakeCare