Torque Tube Bearing Carrier S2-not what I expected.(how do you rivet back together?)
#1
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I have finally removed the bearings from my tt. The pic is from the front bearing the shield has failed and then the ball bearing carrier has broken causing it to jam. From the Clark's method I expected these to be single piece carriers as they are from an S2 (it is the original tt). As you can see from the pics they are 2 piece carriers riveted together. Are these the same as used in the earlier tts?
Once I drill these out, how do i get a rivet back in there - it doesn't look like there is enough room to get a pop rivet gun in deep enough?
Anyone done this before?
Once I drill these out, how do i get a rivet back in there - it doesn't look like there is enough room to get a pop rivet gun in deep enough?
Anyone done this before?
Last edited by Eric_Oz_S2; 07-24-2009 at 10:17 AM.
#4
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Try these, but you'll need to find an anvil for cold-heading them (a cup-shaped die, essentially)
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6KE54
Many other styles, including hollow, at Grainger and McMaster
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6KE54
Many other styles, including hollow, at Grainger and McMaster
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Bummer, there's always some little surprise to slow you down. I'm about to do my TT bearings next week and I'm hoping I've got the one piece carriers. That's what I was expecting anyway. I'm wondering if it was some quirk being a model for Australia. I wonder how "set in stone" the rule is for earlier and later TT bearing carriers. What year is your S2?
#6
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It's an 89. It has the tt with a slit but it doesn't have the dog ears.
If you need any advice I'm happy to help you if I can.
One tip is the hammering out the shaft from the tt is much harder than using a jack to drive it out. Hammering would have taken me about an hour I'm guessing (gave up after about 10 mins). Jacking out the shaft took maybe 30 mins - but much less physical and less potential damage.
If you need any advice I'm happy to help you if I can.
One tip is the hammering out the shaft from the tt is much harder than using a jack to drive it out. Hammering would have taken me about an hour I'm guessing (gave up after about 10 mins). Jacking out the shaft took maybe 30 mins - but much less physical and less potential damage.
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I think I'll be asking you quite a few questions! Good luck with the rest of the job, I hope it all goes back together easily. I'm still waiting for my Delrin sleeves from Jager.
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#9
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No problems - happy to help. I am getting my bushings machined here in Brissy for $26.40 each - so not too different from Jager's price but quicker and no postage costs. Still waiting on those C4 bearings to arrive.
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Yup, just pulled my TT apart and found I also have the riveted carriers. I think I can pop rivet them if I can get hold of some rivets with a longer shaft. I tried a spacer but the rivet shaft won't the reach jaws in the rivet gun. I picked up some 3/16 brass rod at Home Depot, I was thinking of making my own solid rivets by just using a short length and hammering them with a wide punch. I like the idea of a few spot welds though.
#13
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Yup, just pulled my TT apart and found I also have the riveted carriers. I think I can pop rivet them if I can get hold of some rivets with a longer shaft. I tried a spacer but the rivet shaft won't the reach jaws in the rivet gun. I picked up some 3/16 brass rod at Home Depot, I was thinking of making my own solid rivets by just using a short length and hammering them with a wide punch. I like the idea of a few spot welds though.
Were your bushings cactus? I got 4 fabricated, but I am going to use the 2 good bushings that were in the middle of the tt and put them back in the outer ends of the tt.
I am still waiting for my C4 bearings - should be here and day now.
I am also going to try the rivets - I bought 4mm rivets. Just need a short length of small tubing as a spacer, and then use tin snips to cut the edges off. Welding would be ideal - but I don't have one.
If the rivets don't work I'll use the cap head allen type bolts and nuts.
Good luck - let me know how it goes.
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Not the most fun job in the world but pretty straightforward, just a lot of elbow grease. I recall you saying you had some sort of coating on your drive shaft but mine was clean. All the bearings were completely toast, they sounded more like ratchets than bearings. The inner sleeves were in OK condition but they were brittle and cracked easily so I used all 4 of the new ones from Jager. I pressed in the new bearings earlier tonight. Everything cleaned up well, now I just need to get the things back together. I spent like 2 hours in Home Depot trying to find suitable bolts but nothing really worked well enough so I may drop the carriers down to my mechanic tomorrow on my way to work and get them to do a few spot welds, nice and quick. I think they want my car out of their shop as it's been sitting there for a few weeks :P Plus I'm anxious to drive it and see how much smoother and quieter it is. Surely the new bearings it must make a significant difference. I'll keep you posted, I'm trying to have the TT ready this Friday. (my long suffering wife wants her car back)
#15
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I checked my bushes that I had machined. The inside dia is 25.07mm - about what I asked for based on the 25.10 in the Clarks procedure. However, they are not really an interference fit to the driveshaft - they are ever so slightly loose actually. Now I am concerned that they will spin against the driveshaft and prematurely wear out. How close fitting are the Jager ones? Do they tighten up once mounted in the bearings? I'm thinking I could coat the inside with some sort of paint or use a soldering iron to perhaps form some slightly raised grooves in the plastic. Any ideas?