Bruno'S2

Hi,

I started looking for information on what motor oil to use in my 112000 miles S2. I take it to the track for DE (One 2 day session left this season). I read that the S2 engine will burn more oil if we use synthetic. Did anyone test this? I do use synthetic and the car does burn oil on a DE event. I also read about people putting 0W40 is that recommended? I live in Montreal but don’t drive the car in winter.

1989 S2 Black/Black

schwank

Most people run 20W-50 in these cars. Offers good protection at high heat levels on track. Dino or synthetic should really not matter if the seals are good. There is certainly a ton of conjecture about synthetic causing leaks, but I don't believe a word of it.

In the past I and many others have run M1 but the most recent formula is said to not adequately protect cam surfaces from wear. I have also run Castrol GTX in the past with good results and it is fairly priced and readily available.

However at this time I have switched to Brad Penn 20-50 as it contains more ZDDP than other oils, which provides better wear resistance based on what I have read. Not as readily available but it seems to have permeated most locales by now, and can also be ordered from online vendors.

Oil is like religion and so this is a deep question you have asked. I am sure you are about to receive many opinions!

choinga

+1 on Brad Penn 20w-50. Put it in and have one less thing to worry about.

DarylJ

20W-50 is a really good starting point for these cars, especially with 100k+ on them.

Just watch what it does. You obviously want to have good oil pressure, but it shouldn't be excessive. if it is, drop down. I'm running 10w-40 in mine (no track time this year - it would get 20w-50 if I do change my mind on that). I have good pressures, but not excessive. With 20w-50, I see 5 bar all the time at 2500 RPM, even after it's really warm (like 45 minutes of driving). Which basically means that the OPRV is blowing off and I'm not getting as much volume to lubricate and cool the surfaces as I should. I dropped down to 10w-40 and I have lower engine temps when I'm pushing it.

How much does all of this matter? Some, but probably not all that much.

And +1 what schwank said about synthetic - I don't believe it leaks more. I've never seen it happen, and I've put synthetic in a lot of things that didn't have it before. The best part about synthetics is that you can get a much higher weight spread for the winter time (like a 0w-40) so you don't wear things out as much on cold starts. Whether that matters or not and how much depends on how you drive - I have a 15 minute run to work, so it matters a lot for me.

J Berk

+2 on 20W-50...it's what I run and I do DE my car....with 199,xxx on the clock.

951mcomm

+1 brad penn 20-50

ArcticSteve

When it comes to motor oil the word "synthetic" has been redefined. I use a Group 4 0W40 motor oil available only at Esso Bulk Fuel and Lubricant Dealers. Name is XD-3 and it's important to specify 0W40. Only the 0W40 and 0W30 oils are Group 4. The other XD-3 motor oils are Group 2. For reference most, or all, M1 oils in North America, are Group 3 (severe hydro-cracked), not PAO based.

Price is excellent at about $5.60 liter cdn. However, you usually are required to buy by the case: 4 x 4 liter jugs. Did get it once in 1 liter x 12. Cases are stamped with Exxon, but not available in USA.

In my 924S I use the Esso 20W50. I bring it out mid June to mid Sept. However, I have the S2 out by mid May to late October where early morning temps can be as low as 5C and highs rarely get past 86F.

joonas

Expensive but good http://www.motul.fr/redirectuk.asp?N=1.06.02.01

smlporsche

I agree oil is like religion and politics so here's my take...

I run 0W-40 Mobil 1 in my S2 race car until the temp gets consistantly into the 90's when I switch to 15W-50.

Here's my reasoning..
1. 0W-40 is factory fill in ALL porsches sold, including those in the mid east where it is alot hotter than here.
2.It is also what Porsche fills their factory race cars...
3. The latest published Porsche info includes 0W-40 in all water cooled Porsches made.
4. Most engine wear occurs in the first few seconds after you start the engine and a 0W- oil will circulate faster reducing this wear.
5. The lower the viscosity the easier internal components of the engine move thereby giving you the highest HP possible

I do burn oil in my car during the weekend but don't worry about it..

333pg333

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=367300

Unless you are living in near Tundra like conditions using a 0W/30 or even 5w/40 is not great for our cars. Especially if you track them. There is loads of empirical data to back this up. Just go on many threads on many forums and find the actual experts. The link to the Pelican thread above will give you some great info.

Eddie you are misinformed about what Porsche puts in 'all' it's race cars, nor are the current cars anything like ours. Porsche used a straight 50w mineral oil in it's racecars for some time and not made by the company it was advertising on it's bodywork...
If you are waiting for the temps to hit the 90's until you think about putting in at least a 50w oil you are doing your motor an injustice. Look at the Owner's manual chart and see that a mineral 20w/50 is recommended down to -10c and up to over 100f. I use a 25w/60 for the track and that's not on days only above 90f that's for sure. I want my oil to protect my engine, not just lubricate it.

Chads996

Eddie...

The published information was put out there due to the number of 996 / Boxster engines that were experiencing engine failures. It was determined that the oil's viscosity/weight was partially related to the Intermediate shaft bearing failures on these engines. As a result the oil was changed to a 0W-40. The 'thinner' oil was now allowing those parts to be more adequately oiled.

For reference, my mech at J3 recommended that I run 15W-50 Mobil one in the 968 motor we installed. I will of course keep tabs on it.

I'd double check with a Porsche wrench to find out if you are running the proper weight oil in the conditions you are running the car. I have no reason to doubt that you are not burning oil, but the question is....how long will that last? Measure twice, cut once I always say.

Just my .02

C.

333pg333

Chad, I thought that the wrong oil was being used that 'helped' these 986/996 motors expire prematurely. However I didn't think it was the 'W' rather than the contents.
I would also make sure that the oil that you have been recommended is one of the ones that hasn't been quietly drained of it's ZDDP content. So much so that I understand that M is 're-introducing' ZDDP into some of it's product. Make sure you seek out that one if you're going to use that brand.

Chads996

Yes...ZDDP (Zinc) is a good thing for these motors. You can buy additive, but there are other oils out there that still have it. My mech is a VERY much in the know on engine oils. I trust his input immensely.

When I owned my two 996's I cannot tell you how many engineers I spoke to about the engine failure and the rate of failure. The one this that was clear from all of them was the oil specification. The higher weight oil was not getting into the place it needed to in high temp situations. In this case, heat + lack of oil = failure. I loved my 996. fast, fun and extremely capable. But the engine failure issue was a concern with how much I wanted to drive the car on the track. Thus, the reason for my research and eventual migration back to a 944 (of sorts.) Here's my last 996 (sigh)...



Chad

DarylJ

This is the thing that I've (unsuccessfully) try to explain many times to people who think that lots-o-pressure=perfect. It's also why I say that xw-50 is a good starting point, but not necessarily an end. After 100k and 200k miles, engines are different. They've had different maintenance, abuse, wear....its not a one size fits all, and no chart from any manufacturer is going to be accurate....just a starting point.

Knowing a little about how oil works (the big one being that it's a coolant as well as it needs FLOW RATE and not just pressure) is important in interpreting what you are seeing on your gauges when you're choosing a weight.

joonas

Look "Profile" column and then oil weights.