Help needed in NC
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Help needed in NC
so I just picked up some front coilovers for my car, and plan to install them next week. I need help re indexing my rear suspension to mach the lowered front. is anyone available to show me how? Can compensate your trouble with beer
#3
Pro
Thread Starter
for real? I kinda thought they were important. I was watching wheeler dealers (awesome) and they had to re index T bars on a Peugeot and it took him like 15 seconds, but ive read that you have to marke, messure,and remember like 3 dfferent points while doing this, or the car wont sit right. Ive just got the jitters bec ive never done this before
#5
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Livonia, Michigan
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm a bit far in Charleston to offer help (300 miles or so) but I've done the job 3 time so far. Once to swap out the Tbar's in my '84; again to adjust the rear ride height, and once in the 968 when I put the coilovers in.
The hard part is taking everything apart and getting the tbar housing down. What the instructions don't tell you is that there's a flange interlocked with the torque tube on the top of the tbar housing (It may not be in all models but I found it on both of mine) Once you realize that, it's a bit easier to get the tbar housing down. It really is worth the trouble to remove the trailing arms completely, even though it means bleeding the brakes.
If you're just lowering the car and not changing the spring rate, it's not that hard to get it right; you can simply mark the spring plate relative to the end casting of the tbar housing. Since the spring rate is the same, you can just figgure out the angle difference that will give you the desired height. A dime store protractor and a longer sraight edge (like a ruler) is good enough to measure the angle change. I'm pretty sure the instructions on Clarks go through all of the angular measurements.
Good Luck.
The hard part is taking everything apart and getting the tbar housing down. What the instructions don't tell you is that there's a flange interlocked with the torque tube on the top of the tbar housing (It may not be in all models but I found it on both of mine) Once you realize that, it's a bit easier to get the tbar housing down. It really is worth the trouble to remove the trailing arms completely, even though it means bleeding the brakes.
If you're just lowering the car and not changing the spring rate, it's not that hard to get it right; you can simply mark the spring plate relative to the end casting of the tbar housing. Since the spring rate is the same, you can just figgure out the angle difference that will give you the desired height. A dime store protractor and a longer sraight edge (like a ruler) is good enough to measure the angle change. I'm pretty sure the instructions on Clarks go through all of the angular measurements.
Good Luck.
#6
Pro
Thread Starter
^^ thats my point... im typically fairly mechanically inclined, but damn you lost me in all that. Im sure itll make sense when i tear into it I just want to lower the rear. I just bought coilovers for the front, and wanna drop it 1.25 F and roughly 1.75 R I'll get stiffer rear springs in time but for now just going after stance and thicker sways