I have purchased a set of OEM motor mounts from Paragon and was following the instructions on their web site. I'm on step 6 and have a jack on the oil pan (with a piece of wood in between), but don't know where the bell housing by the starter is. What does the starter look like? Pictures would help if you've got'em (cause I'm dumb like that). As always, thanks guys!

 

my car is a 944 turbo, but should be the same. If you crawl under the car from the front of the car it is just behind the bell housing at the bottom of the bell housing. It is right in line with the torque tube, There is a heat shield covering the bottom/right side of it. Could be why you can't see it. make sure you disconnect the battery first. I have done motor mounts twice. i never have to remove the starter.

 

Yes, the starter is a basically cylinder looking object pretruding out from the bellhousing, which is that metal 'casing' behind the oil pan, and has a large steel(i think it's steel) tube connecting to it. You can also decipher the starter from other things by the wires running to it. I believe it's the only thing in that vacinity with wires attached to it. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, I ...HAVE... shocked myself before from not doing it.
P.S. - Zerocool, or should I call you, Crashoverride.. ;-)

 

Work has been a b*tch lately, but I finally got some time to work on the car. Everything is off and all I have to do now is remove the cross member holding the engine. I snapped a pic so you guys can tell me if I got it right. Thanks.

 

Looks like a winner!

 

wat wat wat?
Is the engine being held up by the oil pan or lifted?

I need to do my motor mounts soon...i thought you had to build a thing accross the shock towers to support the engine and then drop the cross-member. Either that or lift the engine..and somehow get the mounts out of there...

I need clarification

 

Skip,

Feel free to take the pic and add it to your tech article on the paragon website. It will probably help others in the future. Thanks again guys.

 

Adrial,

The engine is being held. I'm following the instructions I got from Paragon's website. Check it out.
<a href="http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/944_motor_mount_replacement.htm" target="_blank">http://www.tech-session.com/Paragon/Tech/944_motor_mount_replacement.htm</a>

BTW, does anyone know what the torque specs are for all the nuts and bolts I removed in the process of replacing the mounts. Thanks.

 

[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>...i thought you had to build a thing accross the shock towers to support the engine and then drop the cross-member. </strong><hr></blockquote>

That is if you are going to remove your oil pan, say to do your rod bearings. To just do the engine mounts that is NOT needed.

 

Yup, and I suggest you use the oil pan *and* bell-housing to spread the load.

Skip

 

[quote]Originally posted by adrial:
<strong>

I need to do my motor mounts soon...i thought you had to build a thing accross the shock towers to support the engine and then drop the cross-member. Either that or lift the engine..and somehow get the mounts out of there...

I need clarification </strong><hr></blockquote>

Clarification, maybe....
The factory want you to support the engine from above, _never_ by the oil pan. It's not designed to be stressed that way.

_But_, considering the number of people here who have done it without ill results, it's very highly likely that the factory is being just a tad overcautious. They also don't want you usng the front crossmember as a jacking point. This, after all, is the same organization that thinks that it takes a mega-zilla snap ring to hold a thermostat in place....

I'll go with Skip... if you spread the load on both the pan & bellhousing, there's no reason not to support it from underneath. Putting _all_ the weight on the pan might not be good for that nice, thick, squishy pan gasket ...

Jim, "Where's my bigger hammer?"

 

chamfer the top of the motor mount, and get a tap that will run though it. Doing this will allow the bolt to thread in at not 100% straight will make putting the bolt in about 200x easier.

Matt

 

[quote]Originally posted by jim968:
<strong>This, after all, is the same organization that thinks that it takes a mega-zilla snap ring to hold a thermostat in place....</strong><hr></blockquote>

AMEN!!! I've done many T-stats on all makes of auto and have never seen such a simple task made so difficult. Just did the new Jetta - it's held in by an O-ring sandwiched against a water jacket held on by two bolts... granted, you have to pull the water pump/PS belt and rotate the pump out of the way... it took all of 15 minutes (and another hour to bleed ... typically Deutcsh!)

S

 

Hey, Skip... this was, after all, their first water-cooled design. Maybe they thought that the thermostat was a stressed structural part? I guess we're all just suffering from their learning curve. I wonder how it's done on the 996 & Boxsters & SUV's?

Jim, "And Porsche loses LeMans due to a two-hour pit stop to change a thermostat!"

 

[quote]Originally posted by jim968:
<strong>Hey, Skip... this was, after all, their first water-cooled design.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Fair enough - but, how many years of the 13 that this was produced (1982 944 -1995 968) do we think it should take to revise such an obvious flaw? Don't get me started on rod bearings, ring & pinions, and upside down oil filters!

<img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" /> <img src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" border="0" alt="[hiha]" />

If you don't laugh , I'll cry <img src="graemlins/crying.gif" border="0" alt="[crying]" />

S