Some body work....
#1
Some body work....
http://www.competitionmotorsports.org/ - This guy is an idiot at the least. I was looking for a drivers side fender for a while and I called this guy to see if he had a late model 944 Fender, he said that he had one from a late model 85 and it would be $100. So I asked him specifically "It does NOT have an antenna or antenna hole right?" and he replies, that it does not. So I go ahead and order it. When it arrives about a week and a half later I can see a wire sticking out of the box, it was an antenna wire, so I was pretty pissed. Then when I open the box (it wasn't that hard becasue it was so poorly packaged) I noticed it had two creases in the fender, so essentially it was useless to me. So I give him a call that evening and he doesn't answer, so I write him an email and he replied "All parts shipped through UPS are insured up to $100.00 automatically. Give them a call and they should reimburse you for the amount. Let me know how you make out and if you need any help." What a freaking jerk, he just totally ignores that he sent the wrong fender and then tells me to deal with UPS although it was damaged because of his poor packing skills (just a carboard box that didn't cover it all, and no padding).
So instead of loosing all my money, I decided to try some body work....
Cutting the good part off of the new (to me) fender:
Another angle of the cut in the fender, using one of my favorite tools (Rotozip, with wheel atachment):
After I cut it completely off, layed next to my damaged fender on the car:
Another picture. You can see how the curve in the front are different between the fender; the red one is where the body shop, that the PO chose, tried to get it right; and the bare metal one is the correctly shaped one:
Making a template to cut the other fender with:
After the other fender is cut and testing out the two peices on the car:
After some welding and grinding:
Another picture of the grinding:
So instead of loosing all my money, I decided to try some body work....
Cutting the good part off of the new (to me) fender:
Another angle of the cut in the fender, using one of my favorite tools (Rotozip, with wheel atachment):
After I cut it completely off, layed next to my damaged fender on the car:
Another picture. You can see how the curve in the front are different between the fender; the red one is where the body shop, that the PO chose, tried to get it right; and the bare metal one is the correctly shaped one:
Making a template to cut the other fender with:
After the other fender is cut and testing out the two peices on the car:
After some welding and grinding:
Another picture of the grinding:
Last edited by crazandy; 09-22-2003 at 02:40 PM.
#2
Yet another picture of the grinding:
After some bondo (probably no more than 3/32" thick at the max):
Another angle of the bondo:
Gotta love bondo:
After some primer:
Another angle of the primer:
And on the car, almost ready to go get painted (after I put the bumper on it and do some more minor work):
Another angle on the car:
After some bondo (probably no more than 3/32" thick at the max):
Another angle of the bondo:
Gotta love bondo:
After some primer:
Another angle of the primer:
And on the car, almost ready to go get painted (after I put the bumper on it and do some more minor work):
Another angle on the car:
Last edited by crazandy; 09-22-2003 at 02:43 PM.
#3
One more of the car (no my mirror isn't broken, I just can't figure out how to take it apart completely, yet):
Here's some more pictures after more fabbing this morning. I had to do a lot of filing/sanding/grinding and make a bracket.
From the back:
From the front:
For the full pictures:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289755279
Maybe I should see what Porsche North America thinks about his website, seeing as he doesn't have a disclaimer or anything. I wish I would have spent another 50-100 and got a fender from Ian or Parts Heaven. Live and learn I guess.
Here's some more pictures after more fabbing this morning. I had to do a lot of filing/sanding/grinding and make a bracket.
From the back:
From the front:
For the full pictures:
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4289755279
Maybe I should see what Porsche North America thinks about his website, seeing as he doesn't have a disclaimer or anything. I wish I would have spent another 50-100 and got a fender from Ian or Parts Heaven. Live and learn I guess.
Last edited by crazandy; 09-22-2003 at 02:41 PM.
#6
That was my first time ever doing bodywork and MIG welding. Although I have done flux core and TIG welding before.
I think I ruined the galvanizing on the fender by welding on it. I'll just put some extra undercoating on it.
I think I ruined the galvanizing on the fender by welding on it. I'll just put some extra undercoating on it.
#7
Good job...
The accepted methods these days though would have required you to cut the front section a tad larger, bevel the end with a grinding wheel and adhere the new part in place with a body adhesive (epoxy), then swipe filler along the seam where the parts overlapped and feather.
You'd never see that the two parts were overlapped..
Good job either way, it came out nice.
The technique is called 'sectioning'...
(so ya won't have to go through a 30 minute explanation to everyone who ask... )
BTW: There are primers (even in cans) called etching primers that will properly treat the metal and keep it from rusting. Some contain acid. Most Urethane and epoxy primers are 'safe' for application directly over metal as well...
Terry S.
The accepted methods these days though would have required you to cut the front section a tad larger, bevel the end with a grinding wheel and adhere the new part in place with a body adhesive (epoxy), then swipe filler along the seam where the parts overlapped and feather.
You'd never see that the two parts were overlapped..
Good job either way, it came out nice.
The technique is called 'sectioning'...
(so ya won't have to go through a 30 minute explanation to everyone who ask... )
BTW: There are primers (even in cans) called etching primers that will properly treat the metal and keep it from rusting. Some contain acid. Most Urethane and epoxy primers are 'safe' for application directly over metal as well...
Terry S.
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#11
Terry,
Any chance that you could a little more in depth as to what epoxies and any techniques are used on the overlap process? I have a driverside quarter panel that is in serious need of attention and $690.00 for the new panel and $1900.00 for the labor is a little up there for an '84, especially since I'm getting ready to to do the belts/waterpump(rollers) new radiator, hoses, and coolant tank and still have to get ready for paint. Any help would be appreciated.
If it helps, the damage is directly at the top of the arch. It has been "fixed" before by the P.O. but the bondo is cracking and there is the start of rust.
Thanks!
Dave
Any chance that you could a little more in depth as to what epoxies and any techniques are used on the overlap process? I have a driverside quarter panel that is in serious need of attention and $690.00 for the new panel and $1900.00 for the labor is a little up there for an '84, especially since I'm getting ready to to do the belts/waterpump(rollers) new radiator, hoses, and coolant tank and still have to get ready for paint. Any help would be appreciated.
If it helps, the damage is directly at the top of the arch. It has been "fixed" before by the P.O. but the bondo is cracking and there is the start of rust.
Thanks!
Dave
#15
David Agatone, Sounds like you could remove the bondo (which is really a namebrand) and do the repair correctly instead of sectioning part of a used 1/4 panel in but without seeing the car it's hard to tell the condition by just your desciption....
I can supply you with specific names/types of supplies you'll need to do either job.
If you have a picture of the area, send it to
944t@bellsouth.net
Terry S.
I can supply you with specific names/types of supplies you'll need to do either job.
If you have a picture of the area, send it to
944t@bellsouth.net
Terry S.