FWIW I just paid $180 last week to have my system converted to R134a. That included 2lbs of refrigerant. I was barely driving my car because it was so miserable in the heat.

Good luck.

 

Craig;
Read the Griffiths info. Interesting. I interpret the holes are there to facilitate a controlled rupture under pressure. They're designed to give at exactly those points, and essentially function as pressure relief valves. Nothing leaks thru those holes under normal conditions. But all rubber is semi-permeable, especially when under pressure like a balloon. The double barrier hoses leak too, just not as much. Part of the environmental controls system I guess.

Anyway, I'm running the 134a right along with the mineral oil and the R12 compressor, dryer and all the rest. Cooling seems to still be satisfactory. Keep your fingers crossed for me.

 

For everyone with AC problems, have checked the little clips that close the vent flap? These clips break and give the illusion of non-working AC. I purchased a used unit and then a new unit only to find that a part from the local dealer costing $1.53 fixed my problem. I discovered this fix in Excellence November 2000 issue. </font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by iloveporsches:
<strong>Ok, when I bought the car at the end of last summer, I knew the AC didn't work. I figured I'd just get it fixed over the winter no problem. Well, a clutch job and head rebuild later, it isn't fixed. Now having to drive a black/black car in 90*+ with no AC is really starting to suck. The AC blows on all settings, but it just blows warm air.

Is this just a recharge, or could it be a lot more? What's a recharge of R12 or a convresion to R-134a cost?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">

 

les, could you by chance scan that and send it to some of us? I'd really appreciate it.

Also, everyone please celebrate post #500. :-D