roman944

1 in front and 1 in the back

takearide

Thanks for stealing my idea.

But seriously, good luck. I would love to see some pics.

034 Motorsport has an adapter plate to put a VR6 in an Audi A4, you may want to check it out. It doesn't look like it will fit without mods, but it might help.

3.2 and 3.6 VR6's come in Touareg/Cayenne bet they will work easier, but be more expensive.

roman944

I saw that, I don't know about A4, but on Audizine there was a nice thread on the B5 S4 with a turbocharged VR6

definetly doable

Vonov

No hate involved m8...just built enough V-8 cars that I'm over them somewhat...my very first build was a Gremlin (tells ya how old I am, lol) w/360 Javelin motor, Accel turbo kit, BW 4spd...the last car I owned was a Pontiac 2 seater with a Cadillac V-8.
Anyway, I have respect for anyone who wants to go in whatever direction to improve their cars...just don't always like to travel on the beaten path myself.
Without further ado...from upper left:
The car...heavily overpainted and neglected when I first got it.

The partially modified VW VR6 manual trans bellhousing, minus the differential case;

Second row, left;
The TT adapter plate/template (haven't determined the final thickness yet)...as you can see in this pic, some minor modifications to the bell needed to be completed (removal of the roller bearing, etc)

First trial fitting of the bellhousing to determine what fitment issues are likely to arise, with adapter plate in place;

Measurements begun: shown is the distance from bellhousing/block mating surface to crossmember.

Vonov

Next picture shows the one point that is likely to prove troublesome; it's sort of hard to see, but the view is from directly beneath the car, looking up at the mounting point for the VR starter. Fortunately, there is nothing on the other side of the drive tunnel sheetmetal except carpeting; it's aft of the pedals, and forward of the shifter hardware. The plan is to cut an a relief in the tunnel, and fabricate a bulge that will allow adequate clearance, which will then be welded in place. Access to the starter bolts themselves will actually be fairly easy, as they will be located at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions, vertically speaking.

Rogue_Ant

Awesome project!


-Rogue

Vonov

Thanks for all the support...I'm pretty stoked about this.

NOT looking forward to doing the prep work on the paint for this car, though---the last person who painted the car was of the "mo is bettah" school of painting. The paint was cracked severely in a couple of spots, and I thought I was gonna find major bondo---NOT the case (thank God)---the guy just sprayed on this cheap enamel SO thick, that I suspect it was either really cheap single stage enamel, or not automotive paint at all. It's at least 5 mils thick... Here's something to give you an idea:

J Berk

Neat stuff! Good luck with the project and thanks for the pics!

Vonov

Thanks for the tip, sir!

Eastep

just sold my 00 12V GTi and bought the 924S. I LOOOOOOOOOVed the sound of my VR.... heres a clip, i think ya'll will agree ANSA ftw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyMKAEwH6_o

GL thought of doing this myself

RED87944S

sounds like a baby vetta

Vonov

Sorry for the monster size pics...I'll edit them down some later so y'all won't have to scroll across the page.

Vonov

Pics resized (whew, that's much better).
My partner in all this is a friend who goes by the moniker of Krazy Karl, aka Doug, at German Performance Options in Nashville. He's forgotten more about VW's and Porsches, especially the liquid-cooled variety, than I am ever likely to know.
He loaned me a VR starter which I think he was going to send out for rebuild or exchange, but which will serve admirably for purposes of mocking up and fitment. The first thing I was gratified to notice was that unlike your average GM or domestic starter, this one has no "snout" on it; what that means is that I can install it with the solenoid up or down, without having to partially disassemble it, as would be necessary on a GM unit. It will minimize intrusion into the driveline tunnel.
In case anyone was wondering, what will make this fairly simple (as simple as anything like this ever is, anyway) is the fact that I will be able to use off-the-shelf Volkswagen components for practically everything from the torque tube forward, including everything inside the bellhousing, the power steering pump, the A/C compressor, the alternator, water pump and so on...
As soon as I get back from dinner, I will post pics, starter nose; solenoid up...and solenoid down. Progress on this seems slow to me...but I so want this done right, so I'm trying to cover all the bases, being a firm believer in that rotten S.O.B. Murphy...

FRporscheman

Tony, I've been keeping my project a secret for a while so I could take my time and "be the first" so to speak, but I guess now that you're out here I better light a fire under myself!

I think the VR6 engine is amazing. It has it's flaws and limitations, but once you put a turbo on it, they're all moot points. It just seems more appropriate than an American V8.

More power to you (pun intended)!

Vonov

(Tosses a lighter and a can of Sterno) Here ya go, m8!

Arash, if I run into probs, I'll be picking your brain for ideas, and as far as I'm concerned, you helped me find the solution to this, so if I discover any tricks along the way, you'll get the G2 on it first. There seem to be one or two that don't think the finished result is going to be worth the effort involved. We'll see about that...

I'm like you, I wanted a German engine for this car, but one built without the inherent complexity of the 2.5 four...and I happen to like, among other things, the growl this engine makes, as well as the strength of the short crank and block.