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HID Headlight Upgrade

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Old 05-12-2009, 09:40 PM
  #16  
tman
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Here's what I did.

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Last edited by tman; 03-03-2013 at 02:45 PM.
Old 05-12-2009, 10:40 PM
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Dougs951
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I run the E-code lenses and Hella H4 90/130 bulbs. So far I have yet to have any problems and no complaints from other drivers. Oh and BTW I have the lights on a relayed circuit.
Old 05-13-2009, 12:09 AM
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Widsinator
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So the general consensus is that bulbs in a E-Code will be the better than a HID in an E-Code. I found a great deal on a local HID kit, I will try that and report back how it works out. I figure it should still be a large improvement over stock, and I don't want to be overdrawing my amp to run brighter bulbs (I have a sound system from the previous owner).
Old 05-13-2009, 12:22 AM
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MooreBoost
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i broke fog light lenses and stuck h3 4300k 55w hid's in there. covered up with lexan. works really good
Old 05-13-2009, 01:16 AM
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Johnny Player Special
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The HID H4 bulb has a housing that surrounds the bulb and directs the light to give it the same pattern as a conventional H4 bulb. The area cut into the housing is for when you use your high beams the servo pulls the light beam back so more of the light is reaimed.

The regular H4 bulb has a metal refractor/reflector built into the housing to reflect the light of the low beam into the upper half of the housing so the collector reflects the light out with a majority of the light going away and up. This what gives the H4 bulb a distinct flat with an angle light pattern ____/.

I think E code lenses have another refractor built into them that changes the beam pattern further. I run the US version
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Old 05-13-2009, 01:22 AM
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You're close about the lenses. The e-code lenses have the ___/ pattern. US lenses DO NOT have that pattern. The reason for this has to do with the DOT code for headlights. The US code mandates that a certain amount of light has to go up to illuminate overhead signs--not really a big deal now that we have lighted signs, but the code is from the 50's or so.

Add higher than stock wattage to the US lenses and you blind oncoming traffic because there isn't a low cutoff like in the e-codes. The actual lenses themselves are different and that's what changes the pattern, not the reflector parts.
Old 05-13-2009, 09:18 AM
  #22  
GrantM
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Johnny--

Which bulb is that exactly? Part num? Thanks.
Old 05-13-2009, 11:53 AM
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Johnny Player Special
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Originally Posted by GrantM
Johnny--

Which bulb is that exactly? Part num? Thanks.
It is a H4 hi/lo 55w 6000k I believe. I may have to do some research to be sure. I do not have a part number for you although. The kits come from one of our suppliers.

I was going to see if some members were interested in buying the kits, if I can get nine other people to commit we can get the kits for $ 150-$160 ea plus shipping.

They come coplete with bulbs, ballasts, and wiring harnes. Should take under a couple of hours to install.
Old 05-13-2009, 01:45 PM
  #24  
hidsolutions
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Hey Guys,

I don't want to come off too 'salesy' but Jeremy contacted me via craigslist locally and then told me about this post because he wasn't too sure about adding the HIDs after he read here. I do this on the side but I have years of lighting experience and LOTS of older european retrofits under my belt. If anyone has any questions about lighting or wiring or swapping let me know. I just need to find a Porsche 951 for myself. Jeremy's 944 is super nice and super clean. I just need a little more power

I did want to debunk some of the myths. H4 HIDs into any housing outside of fluted E-Code, US Projector Style or Euro Projectors will be horrible. The E-Code lighting have fluted glass, combine that with the HIDs bulb attachment + reflector you get what some would calling amazing cut off for a 1980s vehicle.

The other issue that comes up a lot in conversation and internet forums is the light output and 'blinding' oncoming traffic. I see in this thread members like to use the Hella H4 90/130 replacement bulb. Lumens on that bulb is in the 3000 Lumens range. A 35W HID 4300 Kelvin HID kit puts out 3200 Lumens. All other things equal, if your blinding with HID kit your blinding with the Hella H4 kit. The benefit to the HIDs is less power draw and not running a super wattage bulb that not only draws a lot more power but due to heat will fail more often than a standard 55/65 watt bulb.

Combine that with lifetime warranty on my HID kits on bulb and ballast and you realize that HIDs may seem more doable than it seems before. We are going to order Jeremy a set of Hella E-Codes and set him up with the swap. The HID kit is going to be far cheaper than posted above. I only offer slim ballast, 100% digital and lifetime warranty. I think Jeremy is going to be excited with the results!

The first car I did was my BMW E28 535i. This is the car I showed Jeremy so he knew what he was expecting with Hella E-Code + HIDs. The BMW Is slightly different because it has seperate High/Lows but light output/cutoff/etc will be the same. Car came with 5" US Sealed Beam Headlights. Euro Grill Swap, 7" E-Code Headlamps and an HID kit later you have the results. Pictures show the results.

Euro Front End Swap:


HIDs On - Close Up:


CutOff - Looking From Hood:


CutOff - Looking From Rear Quarter:
Old 05-13-2009, 01:58 PM
  #25  
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[QUOTE=hidsolutions;6564406]Hey Guys,

I don't want to come off too 'salesy' but Jeremy contacted me via craigslist locally and then told me about this post because he wasn't too sure about adding the HIDs after he read here. I do this on the side but I have years of lighting experience and LOTS of older european retrofits under my belt. If anyone has any questions about lighting or wiring or swapping let me know. I just need to find a Porsche 951 for myself. Jeremy's 944 is super nice and super clean. I just need a little more power

I did want to debunk some of the myths. H4 HIDs into any housing outside of fluted E-Code, US Projector Style or Euro Projectors will be horrible. The E-Code lighting have fluted glass, combine that with the HIDs bulb attachment + reflector you get what some would calling amazing cut off for a 1980s vehicle.

The other issue that comes up a lot in conversation and internet forums is the light output and 'blinding' oncoming traffic. I see in this thread members like to use the Hella H4 90/130 replacement bulb. Lumens on that bulb is in the 3000 Lumens range. A 35W HID 4300 Kelvin HID kit puts out 3200 Lumens. All other things equal, if your blinding with HID kit your blinding with the Hella H4 kit. The benefit to the HIDs is less power draw and not running a super wattage bulb that not only draws a lot more power but due to heat will fail more often than a standard 55/65 watt bulb.

Combine that with lifetime warranty on my HID kits on bulb and ballast and you realize that HIDs may seem more doable than it seems before. We are going to order Jeremy a set of Hella E-Codes and set him up with the swap. The HID kit is going to be far cheaper than posted above. I only offer slim ballast, 100% digital and lifetime warranty. I think Jeremy is going to be excited with the results!

The first car I did was my BMW E28 535i. This is the car I showed Jeremy so he knew what he was expecting with Hella E-Code + HIDs. The BMW Is slightly different because it has seperate High/Lows but light output/cutoff/etc will be the same. Car came with 5" US Sealed Beam Headlights. Euro Grill Swap, 7" E-Code Headlamps and an HID kit later you have the results. Pictures show the results.

Euro Front End Swap:


HIDs On - Close Up:


CutOff - Looking From Hood:


CutOff - Looking From Rear Quarter:
[/QUOTE

Do some searching and you will see at $150-$160 is a deal most of the kits you may be looking at are not a hi/lo setup. These kits are a Hi/lo single bulb setup. In the BMW and some other cars you need two sets of HIDs one for the hi one for the low. I have seen the same kits for around $180 plus you have to pay addl $$ for the harness. I'n not trying to make tons of money off of people. we could probably get a better pricebreak on the kits if I can get get people to do a coop buy.
Old 05-13-2009, 02:28 PM
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The price we settled on is $115 for the kit with high and low working right from the stalk on the steering wheel. That includes the H4 Bulb, H4 install harness and Slim Ballast I will make sure to post up install pics. All I have to source on my own is the E-Code headlights.
Old 05-13-2009, 02:44 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Widsinator
The price we settled on is $115 for the kit with high and low working right from the stalk on the steering wheel. That includes the H4 Bulb, H4 install harness and Slim Ballast I will make sure to post up install pics. All I have to source on my own is the E-Code headlights.
That is correct. Your kit will be a High/Low kit that is discussed above in this post. It does include an H4 High/Low install harness. Will look over your car and see what sort of gauge wire Porsche decided to use on the headlight harness.

HID kit draws 20amps on start up to fire the igniter and then only 3amps while it is running. A high wattage H4 bulb draws 15amps constantly. In my 535i I had to install a relay harness and we may have to do that. It is just some relays, some fuses and some wiring. It won't be hard
Old 05-13-2009, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by hidsolutions
H4 HIDs into any housing outside of fluted E-Code, US Projector Style or Euro Projectors will be horrible. The E-Code lighting have fluted glass, combine that with the HIDs bulb attachment + reflector you get what some would calling amazing cut off for a 1980s vehicle.

The other issue that comes up a lot in conversation and internet forums is the light output and 'blinding' oncoming traffic. I see in this thread members like to use the Hella H4 90/130 replacement bulb. Lumens on that bulb is in the 3000 Lumens range. A 35W HID 4300 Kelvin HID kit puts out 3200 Lumens. All other things equal, if your blinding with HID kit your blinding with the Hella H4 kit.
I want to address these two points. Point one, about the lenses. MOST (not all, and seemingly not yours) of the people who do HID swaps (or overwatt 90/130 bulbs) do so in US lenses. 944s, Civics, whatever. Hence the blinding comments. I see it personally all the time.

As for the other blinding problem - people don't AIM their lights. I don't care if you swap in good lenses and stock bulbs, badly aimed lights suck. The pattern they throw on the road is bad for the driver and everybody else on the road.

Your kit (FYI, the overlords here might take your post to be selling things and they get pissy about that) seems pretty cool. I like my standard H4 lenses, but I'll definately say that done right, HID would work well in these cars.

Just an FYI regarding the Porsche wiring for headlights...pathetically thin. It's why the IceShark kit people talk about here (or the Rennbay product you can get now) is a big deal. There are great horror stories about people's light switches catching fire because of how the system's set up from factory.
Old 05-13-2009, 06:09 PM
  #29  
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So my understanding is that the light for both high and low beams are being emitted from the same object and the high/low function is controlled by a solenoid actuated reflector.
What is the delay time between full low to high and high to low?
What are the lumens for high and low?
Old 05-13-2009, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Wipeout
I want to address these two points. Point one, about the lenses. MOST (not all, and seemingly not yours) of the people who do HID swaps (or overwatt 90/130 bulbs) do so in US lenses. 944s, Civics, whatever. Hence the blinding comments. I see it personally all the time.

As for the other blinding problem - people don't AIM their lights. I don't care if you swap in good lenses and stock bulbs, badly aimed lights suck. The pattern they throw on the road is bad for the driver and everybody else on the road.

Your kit (FYI, the overlords here might take your post to be selling things and they get pissy about that) seems pretty cool. I like my standard H4 lenses, but I'll definately say that done right, HID would work well in these cars.

Just an FYI regarding the Porsche wiring for headlights...pathetically thin. It's why the IceShark kit people talk about here (or the Rennbay product you can get now) is a big deal. There are great horror stories about people's light switches catching fire because of how the system's set up from factory.
Thanks for the preview on the wire quality

Well Jeremy, it sounds like first off we will be building a wire harness for your car We don't want any engine bay fire. Won't be hard to set that up at all. We will just build a relay harness, fuse it and we will be all set. I did it on the E28 BMW just to be on the safe side.

I did send an email over about sponsoring or becoming a vendor. I got a quote for it. So right now I don't want to come off salesy. I wasn't really trying to sell and on a month to month is expensive. If someone likes what they see in Jeremy's car we can go from there. It just sort of happened to fall into place as he found me on craigslist.

THe first point. Everyone puts HIDs into whatever housing they want now. It sucks that HIDs get a bad rap because of it. With proper lenses and housings HIDs can be a great thing

Second point, 98% of the cars with stock bulbs, HIDs or whatever light they choose are not aimed right. My BMWs have projectors and I STILL mess with them from time to time trying to get them perfect.

THanks for the kind words. I think Jeremy will end up quite happy in the end.

Originally Posted by fortysixandtwo
So my understanding is that the light for both high and low beams are being emitted from the same object and the high/low function is controlled by a solenoid actuated reflector.
What is the delay time between full low to high and high to low?
What are the lumens for high and low?
On an HID kit with H4 Hi/Low a reflector moves to allow the light to travel father 'up' and lets the light go farther down the road. Low Beam is pointing almost straight out. Say 80-85 degrees if properly aimed. When you flick the high beam(it is almost instant, just like flashing brights) it will move the reflector so it is going out more upwards, thus shining light farther down the road.

Lumens is not changing. Constant 3200 Lumens. You can notice the highs working though as the reflector moves.


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