Alright folks,

I've done the search thing and well I've done some investigation and the reason my clutch peddle is sticking to the floor is because there is an external leak. When I look under the car with someone depressing the clutch peddle I see 3 metal lines and one is leaking. I couldn't find any diagrams or any manuals to explain what those lines are but I'm assuming 2 go to the brakes and the other one, which is leaking is for the clutch. So my question is am I correct?? How hard is it to replace??? And where do I get the part???
Is this it???? Oh and the cars an 1987 944 turbo

 

the line is probably ok, the culprit is probably your master cylinder, not too hard, easier if you have a power bleeder

 

From your description, it sounds like the line between your clutch slave and master is bad.

If that's bad, the slave and master probably aren't too far behind. To do it once and be done with it, Id suggest replacing the master, slave, reservoir to master cable (the blue braided thing coming off of the brake fluid reservoir) and the metal line that connects the master and slave together. If you're sure you've narrowed it down to only one part and don't mind getting back in there later, go for it.

The only hard parts about this job are going to be swapping the master (you need some extensions, u-joints, and patience), and bleeding the system. If you don't have a motive power bleeder or some other type of PRESSURE bleeder (not vacuum), borrow or buy one. Trying to bleed a clutch on one of these cars by pumping the pedal is insanity. Using a pressure bleeder takes 5 minutes.

Parts can be had anywhere. Pelican seems to do well for me:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...Tclutc_pg3.htm

On that page, you're looking for 951-423-189-01-M33 for just the line that you think is bad. The rest of the stuff is on there too.

 

In my case it was the slave cylinder, as has been the case with numerous others.

Try www.pelicanparts.com or http://www.paragon-products.com/ both are excellent vendors.

The two challenges with replacing the slave are getting to the bolts that hold it in place (extensions and 'wobbles' are your friends) and getting it bled after you replace it (I had the best luck tapping/banging on it to get the last couple of bubbles out. There is a good procedure in the Garage Shop Manual section of Clarks Garage http://www.clarks-garage.com/.

Edit: Looks like Daryl beat me to the punch...at least we agree!

 

I think you mean the master. The slave is the one by the starter that relatively easy to get to. The master is the one by the brake booster that makes you curse and think that pulling the motor is an easier job.

Edit: until you've done it once and figured out the magic combination of extensions and u-joint.

 

You are correct sir...it's been awhile and I did them both at the same time.