Operator

so yea.. im getting some squeeling when i brake sometimes now after having the car for half a year, i guess my pads are getting kind of worn, darn, because i have no money to pay someone to replace them.. or definitely no money to replace the rotors.

so.. anyone know of a good "tech session" writeup of how to change the brake pads? should be easy enough right, even for a fool like me? bleeding the brakes (changing the brake fluid) sounds like it might be a bit harder to do, but necessary when changing the pads right?

oh yea, also.. whats a good brand to use for regular day to day driving?

hmm thats it, anyone that wants to chime in with any helpful information - feel free

Skip

Relatively simple - that article's coming soon, but here's the digest version:

• Lift car safely
• Remove wheels
• Check level of hydraulic reservoir [if too full, you need to drain some off to make room for compressing calipers]
  
  Front:
• remove two 19mm bolts holding caliper to spindle
• attempt to remove the caliper from the rotor - if it does_not want to come off, you may need to press back the caliper using a large C-clamp (or actual disc brake caliper compression tool). A swift blow from a large hammer also usually works
  *be careful not to allow the caliper to dangle by the brake line - use a bungee or suitable device to hold it up.
• remove the spring wire holding the pad retainer pins.
• remove the pad retainer pins - pads should drop out of the bottom. Outer pad may need a smack to release it from the pad carrier nub.
• installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to use anti-seize on the pad plate contact areas to reduce squeal. (do_not get it on the pad friction surface or rotor)
  
  Rear:
• same as front, except you must remove the brake hard line from the back of the caliper prior to installing new pads.

Bleeding - depending on how you do it, this is even easier. If not using a pressure bleeder, you must have a helper to press the pedal (or reverse bleeder, which I'm not a fan of).

The purpose of bleeding after a pad change is three-fold - 1. remove the old fluid 2. remove any air from the lines 3. reset the new pads positively against the rotors.

You'll want to form a catch aparatus for the fluid to be bled out - a small diameter clear hose and spaghetti jar works quite well.

The helper will press down after you open the bleed valve, then let up after you close it. open-down, close-up. The idea is to push fluid out, without letting air back in (I know this sounds basic, but I don't know where to start?)

Keep a close eye on the brake reservoir, trying not to let the level drop below the inlet for the clutch hydraulics (if you don't plan on bleeding the clutch system)

There's no magic order of corners, but most folks prefer farthest to closest (right-rear, left-rear, right-front, left-front). Bleeding should be done until the old fluid is completely evacuated (one reason Ate Blue and Gold is so popular). Make sure you pump the pedal up a few times while bleeding to seat the pads firmly into the carriers and against the rotors.

Most street pad break-in procedures are quite liberal, but please remember to be careful your first 100 miles or so. A situation known as "green fade" can happen if the new pads are used heavily before a proper break-in.

Good Luck!

Operator

wow thanks skip after reading that, i almost think i can do this myself!

can't wait to see the article you put up.
thanks again.. ill post again with questions if i do actually attempt it

Dave

As always, Skip does a great job of explaining the procedure. For pads, OEM is tough to beat for street use, Ferodo $*<%$, way more dust, not much more stopping power.

Julian Allen

I agree with Skip completely.
For ABS equipped cars, the longest front run is actually the L front, and shortest is the R front, since the path of the line from the master cylinder is to the right front fender area and then back to the separate front wheels.

Operator

thats the one thing i think i dont get
whats with the distances? sure the brake lines are a different distance to the cylinder/resevoir but what does this matter? when bleeding you bleed from each brake or something? or from a centerpoint under the car?

Tremelune

When I changed my pads, I didn't remove the calipers. In fact, I've never disconnected them on any car. I've never had a problem...You just gotta shimmy...Vice grips. It wouldn't hurt to have a punch to get the pins out, either...You might need to replace the sensor wires, depending on how worn the pads are, and if you wrecked them pulling the pads out. Try and use the old ones, but there's nothing more annoying than changing the pads and having the damn brake pad lining light on.

crazandy

if you do mess up the sensors, just cut it off at the end and connect the 2 wires and electrical tape em together if u dont' wanna spend 10 bux per sensor to replace. its really easy, i did it when i redid my rotors, and pads. altho i didn't take off my caliper to replace the pads, its much easier to pull out the inner one, then slide the moveable arm thingy over, and pull out the other one. its process is nicely detailed by the shop manuals, if u need i can get u a scanned copy of them pages, might as well let someone else get some use out of them 300 dollar manuals that i bought.

Skip

[quote]Originally posted by Julian Allen:
<strong>For ABS equipped cars, the longest front run is actually the L front, and shortest is the R front, since the path of the line from the master cylinder is to the right front fender area and then back to the separate front wheels.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Absotively - and, don't be fooled by the wording on the Pressure Bleeder. The only reason you are using the left front caliper to final bleed the remaining fluid off is because it is *visually* closest to the reservoir.

Skip

Skip

[quote]Originally posted by Operator:
<strong>thats the one thing i think i dont get
whats with the distances? sure the brake lines are a different distance to the cylinder/resevoir but what does this matter? </strong><hr></blockquote>

The routing for brake lines differs for all makes and models, but that really doesn't matter. The long-standing belief is that the longest line should be bled first, then follow on with the lengths until the shortest is done. IMHO, There are 2 flaws with this line of thought: 1. it simply does_not matter what wheel you start or finish at - everything will be bled thoroughly and completely - the theory of hydraulic pressure and laws of physics are at work here... no need to argue with really_old_dead_smart_people. 2. you are going to be doing each wheel more than once, at least I do, so the chances of recontaminating a clean line is nill.

[quote]<strong>when bleeding you bleed from each brake or something? or from a centerpoint under the car?</strong><hr></blockquote>

Each brake/caliper (though with more modern systems of ABS, Porsche's PSM, or BMW's AST/ACT - this can vary). Also, the 944 brake and clutch hydraulics share the same fluid reservoir - so, the clutch hydraulics can be affected by the brake bleed (but, not the other way - because of the location of the clutch line feed in the reservoir - safety feature)

Skip

Skip

[quote]Originally posted by Tremelune:
<strong>When I changed my pads, I didn't remove the calipers.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Certainly - I've tried this twice and found it more frustrating and imprecise than removing the two bolts holding the caliper on. Also, it gives the opportunity to inspect the dust boot and orient the piston properly.

Skip