OT: 78 280Z for $300?
#1
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Hey Guys,
The shop I work at has a 280Z that is only 300 bucks for me! (1200 for everyone else) I havent taken a close look recently (before I began workin it was out front for 1200) and hte guy I work with said there is frame rot..but mech. its beautiful...should I go for it? I wont get a chance to check it out till next week and I wanna know its a no go or a go
Thanks!
Mike
The shop I work at has a 280Z that is only 300 bucks for me! (1200 for everyone else) I havent taken a close look recently (before I began workin it was out front for 1200) and hte guy I work with said there is frame rot..but mech. its beautiful...should I go for it? I wont get a chance to check it out till next week and I wanna know its a no go or a go
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Thanks!
Mike
#2
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Frame rot on these things is horrendous. Once it starts it's very difficult to stop it w/o replacing just about everything sheetmetal on the car.
With that said, there is a market for 280Z parts. May be a part-it-out situation that you can make a couple duckets on.
Check out <a href="Http://www.zcar.com" target="_blank">Http://www.zcar.com</a> for more info.
With that said, there is a market for 280Z parts. May be a part-it-out situation that you can make a couple duckets on.
Check out <a href="Http://www.zcar.com" target="_blank">Http://www.zcar.com</a> for more info.
#3
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More than likely the right side frame rail has corroded. The battery trays are just realy a conduit for the acid to go to the frame rail. It's extremely common to find rusted hulks that have great drivetrains. (It's a Mercedes design engine!)
I cut my teeth working on old Z cars. They are great cars for the money. (172 hp in a 2600lb car.)
Frame rails are readily available and are easy to weld as long as the veh is straight and the floor pan is in good condition.
I cut my teeth working on old Z cars. They are great cars for the money. (172 hp in a 2600lb car.)
Frame rails are readily available and are easy to weld as long as the veh is straight and the floor pan is in good condition.
#4
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rust never sleeps.. I remember seeing a passenger side fender fly off one at 60 mph on a highway.
rusted completely off..
Hope you are good at welding..
rusted completely off..
Hope you are good at welding..
#5
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Well, Saturday I'm gonna jack it up and check out..the guy I work with said its prolly the frame rail which is hard to find and expensive...if I can fix it cheap it'll be my dd...if not I guess I can part it out..right?
That sucks...looking under quick I saw alota rust rightbehind the engine, in front of the passenger compartant...is that bad? everything in front of that and right behind of that is fine..I hope it'll be good, cause now its 200 for me![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
-Thanks!
Mike
That sucks...looking under quick I saw alota rust rightbehind the engine, in front of the passenger compartant...is that bad? everything in front of that and right behind of that is fine..I hope it'll be good, cause now its 200 for me
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-Thanks!
Mike
#6
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78 isn't that the year they changed over from compressed beer cans to compressed iron oxide for the structural parts.
Firewall footwell area is the common rusting spot for those. Tis why they are called the Flintstone special.
Firewall footwell area is the common rusting spot for those. Tis why they are called the Flintstone special.
#7
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Those things came from the factory with rust on them. As everyone else said, check the pain in the *** spots, frame rails, floor pan, strut towers. If you're not sure- I wouldn't even trust it on a jack, I'd start with a drive on lift. Can't beat $200 though, right?
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#8
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Heh, Thanks! I hope its "Flintsone Special" as if its on the suspension points or frame rail I'm f*cked, right? Pleas dont be
I just love the way these cars look...no better then a '44 tho! If I take some poloriods of the bottom, guys wanna tell me what you think?
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#9
Geaux Tigers!
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Mike, I agree don't get under that thing unless you have it on a very secure lift. What happened to mine was that the battery tray leaked and rotted out the passenger side footwell, firewall, battery tray, and frame member. Also, look around the gas door, hatch, and lower doors (they are prone to clogging their rubber water spout on the doors).
If I were you I'd do some research, via Ebay and Zcar.com, on prices for things such as seats, shifters, hubcaps (if they are original), Dashboards, bumpers, engines etc. etc. If those pieces are in okay to peachy condition then you can probably recover your $200 price with blood, sweat & tears plus a little profit.
If I were you I'd do some research, via Ebay and Zcar.com, on prices for things such as seats, shifters, hubcaps (if they are original), Dashboards, bumpers, engines etc. etc. If those pieces are in okay to peachy condition then you can probably recover your $200 price with blood, sweat & tears plus a little profit.
#10
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Dude. No reason to take a picture. These cars are too predictable. Yes they are good looking cars (THey say that mazda stole the RX-7 design from the 944, I think they stole the 924/944 from the Z) They are quick, and they handle well.
But they all rust in the same spots. Some guy like you buys them. Chases the rust for a couple of years and sells them to some other sucker.
But they all rust in the same spots. Some guy like you buys them. Chases the rust for a couple of years and sells them to some other sucker.
#11
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I've been readin about these and people say that the rust on the car (even frame rails) isnt a huge deal...it'll still drive fine..just not as safe..what do ya think? I'll see if I can get a lift...
Ellssuu, mind if I email you?
Ellssuu, mind if I email you?
#13
Geaux Tigers!
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Sure Mike shoot me an Email at TheRinks@charter.net. Please beaware that I am leaving for Memphis early am tomorrow but I'll be around the 'puter tonight. Not sure if I'll be able to check my emails this weekend but will be back Sunday night.
#14
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One other thing, remember that Z's, especially 280's, are readily available. They are also cheap b/c of the rust problems. If you're looking for a restore candidate then this may or may not be your ticket depending on the rust. Also, you will find it difficult to get your money back out of a restoration job.
The good thing about these cars is that they are like tinker toys to work on. I could change my front brake pads in under 20 minutes...........that's both sides.
Believe me I'm not trying to discourage you as I want to own one again but I am trying to be an honest sobering source <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" /> .
The good thing about these cars is that they are like tinker toys to work on. I could change my front brake pads in under 20 minutes...........that's both sides.
Believe me I'm not trying to discourage you as I want to own one again but I am trying to be an honest sobering source <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/beerchug.gif" /> .
#15
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Well, I personally wouldnt pay more then 900 bucks for one...I dont love em enough for that unless its perfect...but cheaper then that and I'm all over it!