2 quick Q's...where should I get my keys done and how do I use this battery charger?
02-05-2003, 12:29 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Yes, thin battery jumper cables could certainly be the problem. I've seen some Asian manufactured ones as thin as 10 AWG which is way too small. Heck, I use 10 AWG in my headlight kit for each bulb filament for only an 8 amp load. <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> True, I overbuild for ***** to the wall performance, but you get the jist.
And your alligator clamps to the battery posts may not be a very good connection.
If your battery is dead and you are in cold CHI weather you are going to be sucking a TON of current. Just the starter may want 400 or more amps. Then the battery wants even more to charge up.
So, with small cables from the other car you will be dropping voltage like crazy due to resistance. If you drop too much voltage the starter is outside of design specs and won't spin fast enough. Or even spin at all.
Oh, and if you call a tow service to jump the car, don't let them jump the charging voltage up to 24 volts. That is really hard on the battery. If it wasn't shot before hand, that is a good way to cook it for certain.
And your alligator clamps to the battery posts may not be a very good connection.
If your battery is dead and you are in cold CHI weather you are going to be sucking a TON of current. Just the starter may want 400 or more amps. Then the battery wants even more to charge up.
So, with small cables from the other car you will be dropping voltage like crazy due to resistance. If you drop too much voltage the starter is outside of design specs and won't spin fast enough. Or even spin at all.
Oh, and if you call a tow service to jump the car, don't let them jump the charging voltage up to 24 volts. That is really hard on the battery. If it wasn't shot before hand, that is a good way to cook it for certain.
