Rotor rubbing caliper???? wheel bearing?
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First i'd be lost without this site n you guy's help.
Just replaced pads, front wheel bearings. I noticed the front wheels were a little hard to turn, I figured it was the new bearings. I can rock the wheel and get movement top to bottom. I tightened the bearings to spec (can barely move the washer with a scredriver) , gonna rechecK em tonight. What would cause the rotor to rub against the caliper? I also get a terrible grinding noise when i turn or break, only on the right side where the rotor is rubbing.
Just replaced pads, front wheel bearings. I noticed the front wheels were a little hard to turn, I figured it was the new bearings. I can rock the wheel and get movement top to bottom. I tightened the bearings to spec (can barely move the washer with a scredriver) , gonna rechecK em tonight. What would cause the rotor to rub against the caliper? I also get a terrible grinding noise when i turn or break, only on the right side where the rotor is rubbing.
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When I got my car, the outside diameter of the rotor would squeak against the inside of the caliper when you were backing up.
My wheel bearings were really loose but the problem went away when I uninstalled and reinstalled the caliper. I think it's possible to just install them badly.
I would look into getting some rebuilt calipers from Paragon Products. If your car is just a regular NA then the calipers are about $40 apiece and come with all the hardware.
My wheel bearings were really loose but the problem went away when I uninstalled and reinstalled the caliper. I think it's possible to just install them badly.
I would look into getting some rebuilt calipers from Paragon Products. If your car is just a regular NA then the calipers are about $40 apiece and come with all the hardware.
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The rotor that is rubbing has a rebuilt caliper from paragon on it. I'm gonna pull the caliper and replace tonight to see if there is any difference.
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It's because the floating design is so funky. It's definitely possible for it to not be on there just right and it will make contact. I spent a lot of time on the one I replaced.
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Alright thanks, i'm headed out ot pull it now. One more thing. I bled my brakes/clutch with a power bleeder, had a stiff solid pedal, as soon i started the car i could feel the vacuum boost and the pedal dropped nearly to the floor. Can the car be bled with the vehicle running to compensate for the vacuum?
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I'm the wrong person to ask...I'm too poor for a power bleeder and my girlfriend actually won't let me buy one anyways (imagine that!).
I think the pedal dropping when the car starts is normal though.
I think the pedal dropping when the car starts is normal though.
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i made a power bleeder for 20 bucks today haha.......parts from home depot. I posted the items and cost on my other post "clutch problem-on the floor" Worked great
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R and R'd the caliper, everything went together fine. Readjusted the hub, Put the wheel back on and i can rock the SOB back and forth with about an 1-1/2 movement at the tire. I hammered the new races in after putting them i the freezer for a couple hours and the hub in the oven for 30 minutes. Is it possible that the races are not all the way in giving me wheel/hub slop? Or are both hubs bad? Nxt course of action, new bearings/races again and have them pressed in at NAPA. Any other suggestions?
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definitely have the wheel bearings pressed...I did the wheel bearings on one side and after injuring myself (and others) all day we took it to a place with a press and they put it together in about 30 seconds.
Spindles could be worn...I've heard (and experienced) that the "literature" instructions for tightening the wheel bearings leaves you with a lot of wheel bearing slop too.
Spindles could be worn...I've heard (and experienced) that the "literature" instructions for tightening the wheel bearings leaves you with a lot of wheel bearing slop too.
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Definitely having them pressed today! I also may be turning in my wrench forever if i made this make. Somoene please verify the order in which the bearings are installed. For the inner i put the bearing in first, followed by the race on top of it, pounded that in, then i put the seal on. For the outer, i put the bearing in, followed by the race on top of it, then pounded that in.
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Uh, race gets installed in the hub, then the bearing drops into place on top of that. You have to remove the old races from the hubs before installing the new ones.
So basically from outer to inner: Nut with the allen, washer, outer bearing, out bearing race, hub, inner bearing race, inner bearing, wheel seal.
You are backwards on the orientation.
So basically from outer to inner: Nut with the allen, washer, outer bearing, out bearing race, hub, inner bearing race, inner bearing, wheel seal.
You are backwards on the orientation.
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While i do feel the need to rethink my mechanical abilities, unfortunately, being a college student in the military my wallet doesn't allow me to hang my tools up yet. I just have to learn my p-car as I go and hopefully someone else can search and find this and not make the same mistake. NAPA pressed my races for $2 each, $8 and it would have been done correct. I NEED A BEER!