HELP! Crack in fuel rail...
#1
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HELP! Crack in fuel rail...
Took it in today to have the balance shaft adjusted and in the process they found that I was leaking fuel from a crack in the fuel rail! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />
This only a month after the water pump and battery went dead ALONG WITH fixing the odometer (because big dummy here hit the trip reset doing about 75 mph on the interstate, not knowing any better)!
I knew I smelled something going awry in the engine bay, but I couldn't place the odor (thought it might have been an exhaust leak because I could smell it in the cabin) and there were no obvious signs of any fluid leaks.
Now what?? I can't find anyplace that sells replacement fuel rails (checked with Paragon, Porsche, GRP, Tweeks, even Performance Products for cripes sake) - are they called something else? Am I forced to call the local junkyards?
FYI - The crack is in the weld near the bracket where there's no anodization of the housing. As far as I can tell, it can't be repaired. I don't think any kind of sealer would hold up to the high fuel pressures.
This only a month after the water pump and battery went dead ALONG WITH fixing the odometer (because big dummy here hit the trip reset doing about 75 mph on the interstate, not knowing any better)!
I knew I smelled something going awry in the engine bay, but I couldn't place the odor (thought it might have been an exhaust leak because I could smell it in the cabin) and there were no obvious signs of any fluid leaks.
Now what?? I can't find anyplace that sells replacement fuel rails (checked with Paragon, Porsche, GRP, Tweeks, even Performance Products for cripes sake) - are they called something else? Am I forced to call the local junkyards?
FYI - The crack is in the weld near the bracket where there's no anodization of the housing. As far as I can tell, it can't be repaired. I don't think any kind of sealer would hold up to the high fuel pressures.
#2
Give Ian at Ian's Euro Parts a try:
ian@ianseuroparts.com
1-866-944-7883
He's come through with both new and take-off parts for me. I don't know Florida geography but his address is in Pompano Beach so maybe not too far from you?
ian@ianseuroparts.com
1-866-944-7883
He's come through with both new and take-off parts for me. I don't know Florida geography but his address is in Pompano Beach so maybe not too far from you?
#3
I did the same thing a few months ago, it sucks. I found a used one from <a href="http://www.vertexauto.com" target="_blank">vertex</a>. you may want to also try <a href="http://www.pap-parts.com/store/home.asp" target="_blank">German Auto parts</a>, I know they have some or <a href="http://www.partsheaven.com/" target="_blank">Parts heaven</a>
#5
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IT may be possible to repir the rail by brazing the failed section. I would not use TIG. Some of the fittings on the rail have been attached via a brazing type operation. If you use TIG and get copper contamination in the weld pool the weld will crack. I speak from experience.
#7
Sorry, I can't help you w/your problem, but I wanted to ask... You said:
*****ALONG WITH fixing the odometer (because big dummy here hit the trip reset doing about 75 mph on the interstate, not knowing any better)!*****
I've heard that you're supposed to only hit the reset button while sitting still, but I KNOW I did it while rolling a few times before hearing this. Since I heard about it, I have always tried to reset it, only while sitting still, but... What is the reason? Why does it mess it up the odometer to reset while driving?
Thanks,
Robby
*****ALONG WITH fixing the odometer (because big dummy here hit the trip reset doing about 75 mph on the interstate, not knowing any better)!*****
I've heard that you're supposed to only hit the reset button while sitting still, but I KNOW I did it while rolling a few times before hearing this. Since I heard about it, I have always tried to reset it, only while sitting still, but... What is the reason? Why does it mess it up the odometer to reset while driving?
Thanks,
Robby
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Jenket944, I'd pick up a used fuel rail from somebody. Although, it would be nice to have a nice shiney fuel rail to look at.
Robby, The odometer gears stop briefly when the reset button is pushed, but the speedo is still trying to turn them so the gear slips on the little shaft. Once this happens enough times, it looses grip and the gear just slips on the drive shaft and won't turn. They're just press fit. The cheap way to fix is sqeeze the spot the shaft where the gear sits with pliers real hard. This will cause the shaft to become just a little bit oval/out-of-round in shape. I dab of glue wouldn't hurt either. So when you put the gear back on, it turns into a press fit and stays tight. Follow me??? I successfully fixed it this way on my old GTI.
Robby, The odometer gears stop briefly when the reset button is pushed, but the speedo is still trying to turn them so the gear slips on the little shaft. Once this happens enough times, it looses grip and the gear just slips on the drive shaft and won't turn. They're just press fit. The cheap way to fix is sqeeze the spot the shaft where the gear sits with pliers real hard. This will cause the shaft to become just a little bit oval/out-of-round in shape. I dab of glue wouldn't hurt either. So when you put the gear back on, it turns into a press fit and stays tight. Follow me??? I successfully fixed it this way on my old GTI.
#10
I replaced my fuel rail because the FPD bracket cracked off. $125 at PartsHeaven... sounds like I paid a bit too much!
Get new injector o-rings, too. They come three to a set; if you get three sets, you will have two per injector and one for the FPR.
Tom, I don't know who's admiring shiny fuel rails in 8v 944s. They are covered with black plastic hoods, last I checked.
Get new injector o-rings, too. They come three to a set; if you get three sets, you will have two per injector and one for the FPR.
Tom, I don't know who's admiring shiny fuel rails in 8v 944s. They are covered with black plastic hoods, last I checked.
#11
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by jenket944:
<strong>
FYI - The crack is in the weld near the bracket where there's no anodization of the housing. As far as I can tell, it can't be repaired. I don't think any kind of sealer would hold up to the high fuel pressures.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Call PartsHeaven! I got one off an 87 944 from them for cheap! (like $90 or something) and then just switched the fuel pressure reg and accumulator over to the new rail, slapped it on, and drove 3 hours to VIR. It worked great.
Call PartsHeaven. They should really be one of the first places (WAY BEFORE PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS) that you call for OEM parts that don't need to be brand new.
Good luck,
Matt
<strong>
FYI - The crack is in the weld near the bracket where there's no anodization of the housing. As far as I can tell, it can't be repaired. I don't think any kind of sealer would hold up to the high fuel pressures.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Call PartsHeaven! I got one off an 87 944 from them for cheap! (like $90 or something) and then just switched the fuel pressure reg and accumulator over to the new rail, slapped it on, and drove 3 hours to VIR. It worked great.
Call PartsHeaven. They should really be one of the first places (WAY BEFORE PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS) that you call for OEM parts that don't need to be brand new.
Good luck,
Matt
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Well, I think I will try and do this one myself. I usually have Sid and Alan at Troysport do all my work, but I don't have time to take it to them anytime soon (plus I'll save a few $$).
Turned out Ian is the closest geographically and everybody is quoting the same price for a used rail, so I'm going to go with him for speed and to save on shipping costs.
So, if I'm gonna do this myself are there any special tools required? Will the injectors come out with the fuel rail? Ian suggested I get new injector seals in case I break them taking the rail out. Seems like a good idea (what, me a clutz?) I have the Haynes manual at home, but I'm at work now and haven't looked to see if it covers this at all. I'll appreciate any tips...
Turned out Ian is the closest geographically and everybody is quoting the same price for a used rail, so I'm going to go with him for speed and to save on shipping costs.
So, if I'm gonna do this myself are there any special tools required? Will the injectors come out with the fuel rail? Ian suggested I get new injector seals in case I break them taking the rail out. Seems like a good idea (what, me a clutz?) I have the Haynes manual at home, but I'm at work now and haven't looked to see if it covers this at all. I'll appreciate any tips...