CV Joint and Wheel bearing double whammy!
#1
Burning Brakes
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I believe I have both a have a wheel bearing issue (constant whoom whoom noise) and a CV joint issue (occasional LOUD clicking from the rear, goes away after a while) .. I also have a occasional wierd bit of rear play when I strongly accelerate in second gear ..
My question is, what is the best plan of attack here? Which should I do first and why?
My question is, what is the best plan of attack here? Which should I do first and why?
#2
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The driveshaft has to come off in order to do the wheel bearing so the cv's can be checked at that time. The ally trailing arms require a different bearing changing procedure than the steel ones I am all too familiar with... I know that sound. Judging by his ashen face at the sight of my bearing, I would say that my mechanic felt it needed doing NOW. There is a seizure risk in very bad bearings, the consequences of which would be very unpleasant at speed.
I'm sure someone has a link for the bearing job, I can't seem to find mine.
I'm sure someone has a link for the bearing job, I can't seem to find mine.
#4
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I changed the cv's on my car, damage is usually pretty conspicuous - kits are available including bolts, boot, the joint and moly grease.
The shaft is just that, a solid lump of machined metal - not too much to go wrong, the cv's slide onto splines on it (with a little reluctance when new). The joints themselves can come apart so pay close attention to orientation of parts, new ones shouldn't, they are quite stiff.
Remember this - if you just want to clean and repack them - both the inner and outer races of the joint have to be angled in order to get it back together if it comes apart. This may not make sense now but it will when you have one in your hands.
Find a clean place to work and be prepared to get very dirty, make sure you have a pair of expanding snap ring pliers, a soft mallet (if necessary) and be patient. Other than that, it's not that hard.
The shaft is just that, a solid lump of machined metal - not too much to go wrong, the cv's slide onto splines on it (with a little reluctance when new). The joints themselves can come apart so pay close attention to orientation of parts, new ones shouldn't, they are quite stiff.
Remember this - if you just want to clean and repack them - both the inner and outer races of the joint have to be angled in order to get it back together if it comes apart. This may not make sense now but it will when you have one in your hands.
Find a clean place to work and be prepared to get very dirty, make sure you have a pair of expanding snap ring pliers, a soft mallet (if necessary) and be patient. Other than that, it's not that hard.