Alos

I have a 1986 944 N/A, and I have just changed the clutch master cylinder. The problem has been with the bleeding of my clutch. I first made sure that the fluid reservoir was full, then I jacked up the car and removed the starter. I then connected one end of a clear hose to the nipple on the slave cylinder, and put the other end of the hose in a bucket with about two inches of fluid in it. I then had a buddy press the clutch peddle as I opened the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. The problem is no matter how we seem to do it the clutch peddle just stays on the floor. I have gone through 2 1/2 containers of break fluid doing this. Is there anything that I may be doing wrong, or anything else that I could try asside from using a power bleeder(because I don't have the money for that right now) that might help. Any suggestions would be greatly apreciated.

Alpine951

Alos,

i have heard some say that the back of the car should be higher than the front. I have the Motive bleeder. The first time i did it the clutch came right back. the next time it stayed to the floor and the only way to get it back was have someone pump the pedal.

TurboMike

You need to "bench bleed" the master cylinder.

Put it in a vise, fill with fluid, run a hose from the outlet (where your line hooks up) into the resevior and pump the air out.

If you don't have a way of attatching the hose, you can cap your finger ove the outlet and use it as a "check valve".

Install the master cylinder, then the line. leave the line loose from the slave cylinder. Add fluid and let it gravity feed (leave it loose until fluid starts dripping out). Install the line to the slave cylinder. (don't bolt up the slave cylinder yet)Open the bleeder and push the plunger back into the slave cylinder (this pushes the air out). With the plunger pushed in close the bleeder valve. Install the slave cylinder and bleed the system. I hope this makes sense...i'm really tired...

Edit: you could probably leave the master cylinder installed...and the hose installed to the mastercylinder and "bench bleed" from the end of the hose with your thumb.

Riff

Hey Alos!

Sorry to hear about the troubles. Let me get this straight, if you have the nipple closed and you pump the clutch pedal, it will stay on the floor??? There is no resistance at all? If you can, make sure the rear of the car is higher than the front to get the air out of the line. Other than that I really can't think of anything else.

I have one of the pressure bleeders (need a spare tire as compressed air source, 15-20 psi) that you are free to use. Email me your address and I will put it in the mail.

Cheers,

tlynch99

Alos,

I would try turboMikes Suggestion. I have never changed the master cyl. but I do know that having a power bleeder definitely helps. I just bought one a few months ago when I re-did my brakes. I bought the Motive Power Bleeder from Paragon Products. It was fairly cheep $50, especially since you don't need someone pumping pedals. What part of Mass are you located? I might be able to give you a hand.

Alos

Thank you for the advice guys I will try and bench bleed the master cylinder today to see if that solves my problem.

Dave in Chicago

The "gravity bleed" part of the solution has been my salvation whenever I had trouble bleeding the clutch. Take your time, let it drip (it will be slow) for 30 minutes. Seems to allow the air to rise out and fluid to fill all voids.

928FIXER

You can also punch a hole in the top of a container of brake fluid ,insert a piece of clear hose to the bottom,squeze plastic contain until brake fluid is coming out of the hose,open slave bleeder,place hose on bleeder and fill it from the bottom,that way it displaces the air with liquid instead of trying to force air to the bottom,which it does not want to do as you have found out.I did it this way for many years before I bought the expensive (insert brand name here)Injector,which works no better and cost me 300 bucks

924RACR

I replaced the hydraulics in my 81 931 a little while ago. I tried using a mightyvac and had excellent results for an initial bleed. The entire system was dry. Before bolting in the slave, I plugged it in (hydraulic connection), and tilted it so that the bleeder was at the top. I then used the mightyvac to suck fluid down.

Didn't, but should have, bench-bled the master.

Anyway, after installing, first attempt to use the clutch it worked great. After sitting a little while (weeks - don't drive the car) the engagement point has dropped a bit, but it can still be driven. I will be cracking the MC port connection under pressure to get a little more air out of that, then will put the rear of the car up and again take a few squirts out of the slave. After this, it should be good to go.

Keep in mind that this method of bleeding the slave before bolting in is only recommended using a vacuum to draw the fluid down. I'd expect, if you tried to apply pressure to push the fluid down, you'd run a good risk of popping the piston out of the slave!