944 AND 968 short shift kit
06-27-2001, 04:18 AM
#16
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Also, Tim, I was going to get your shift kit, but I really like my stock shift ****/boot. There is
absolutely no way possible you can fix yours to be able to use the stock equip?
No. Sorry. I convert the lever from a regtangular rod to a round rod.
Tim
86 951 http://www.speedforceracing.com
absolutely no way possible you can fix yours to be able to use the stock equip?
No. Sorry. I convert the lever from a regtangular rod to a round rod.
Tim
86 951 http://www.speedforceracing.com
06-27-2001, 09:51 AM
#17
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ive got 1 of the 1s from turbo tim and what a piece it is. actually its GREAT and im more than pleased with it, ive put the new momo raptor **** on it. excellent stuff tim. might be in touch for the nose job. 
06-27-2001, 11:21 AM
#19
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The thing about using the Raptor with my kit is the fact that the **** is so damn tall and because of its design it just sticks up higher then all the other MOMO *****.The whole basis of my short shift kit it to lower the **** to shorten the distance between point a and point b.Do not get me wrong, with the Raptor **** the shift is still shorter then stock, it is just not as short as it could be;^)
Tim
86 951 http://www.speedforceracing.com
Tim
86 951 http://www.speedforceracing.com
06-28-2001, 07:56 PM
#21
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Just got and installed TurboTim's short shifter, excellent, shifts much shorter, with the Momo Competizone **** its perfect height. and even with the price of the **** included its still cheaper than all the other kits.
06-28-2001, 08:59 PM
#23
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Its called the Competizone, you can see it at pelican parts, its just a simple polished aluminum rod, thats the look i wanted, and it fits the way i shift. basically the only part of the shifter above the console in the ****, perfect height.
06-28-2001, 09:11 PM
#24
Drifting
just checked out that RPM - err, Kokeln unit, and as an Autothority (same as most of the many repros out there BESIDES Tim's)Short Shift Kit owner (for which I paid $130.00), my opinion is that the Kokeln unit is prolly the BEST way to go, if you aren't married to the stock ****/boot combo.
By adjusting the length of the arm at the pivot ball (thereby raising the pivot ARM that the shift rod attaches to) you are shortening the throw
WITHOUT
SACRIFICING
SHIFTER
HEIGHT.
It makes less sense to shorten the throw AND move the shifter further out of your reach...
From the picture, the pivot arm can also be replaced (this is a metal to metal contact and hence wear item) making this a lifetime shifter.
Also, by reataining or increasing lever length at the driver, I would think the "notchiness" of the Autothority based kit would NOT be exhibited in this setup...
Don't get me wrong, I am satisfied with my Autothority kit, just realise that this is probably a BETTER solution. If Kokeln is smart, the will offer a model with a different shaft, to accomodate the stock shifter/boot setup, as no one has had the interest in stepping up to the plate with a proper boot solution for aftermarket **** use (i.e. a ring to install below the **** and attach the boot to in a clean and intentional looking fashion...
BTW, the Kokeln shifter would be the ticket with the "gated-look" shifter plate setup I'd like to make...
hmmm....
By adjusting the length of the arm at the pivot ball (thereby raising the pivot ARM that the shift rod attaches to) you are shortening the throw
WITHOUT
SACRIFICING
SHIFTER
HEIGHT.
It makes less sense to shorten the throw AND move the shifter further out of your reach...
From the picture, the pivot arm can also be replaced (this is a metal to metal contact and hence wear item) making this a lifetime shifter.
Also, by reataining or increasing lever length at the driver, I would think the "notchiness" of the Autothority based kit would NOT be exhibited in this setup...
Don't get me wrong, I am satisfied with my Autothority kit, just realise that this is probably a BETTER solution. If Kokeln is smart, the will offer a model with a different shaft, to accomodate the stock shifter/boot setup, as no one has had the interest in stepping up to the plate with a proper boot solution for aftermarket **** use (i.e. a ring to install below the **** and attach the boot to in a clean and intentional looking fashion...
BTW, the Kokeln shifter would be the ticket with the "gated-look" shifter plate setup I'd like to make...
hmmm....
06-29-2001, 01:54 AM
#26
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Keith, you may want to take a look at the stock shifting assembly. You will notice that the linkage which the shift lever moves is bent in an L-shaped fashion. If you have ever replaced a clutch you know that the linkage is a pain to move around so that you can pull the torque tube back.
The L-shaped linkage makes it impossible to move the pivot point down on the shifter any appreciable amount. To do this you would have to actually bend the linkage so as to clear the torque tube. This is why nobody but Koklen tries to change the height of the pivot point a significant amount. Why do they try to change it? I don't know, the adjustability is definitely limited.
Erick
The L-shaped linkage makes it impossible to move the pivot point down on the shifter any appreciable amount. To do this you would have to actually bend the linkage so as to clear the torque tube. This is why nobody but Koklen tries to change the height of the pivot point a significant amount. Why do they try to change it? I don't know, the adjustability is definitely limited.
Erick
06-29-2001, 04:13 AM
#27
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The adjustment is so it can be used on the 968. Like Erik said, you will have limited adjustability before your lingage no longer operates correctly.They should have made an adjustment on the top so you can raise or lower the height of the **** and therefor reduce the throw a little or alot.I guess I'll add a shift **** height adjustment to my shift lever! Look for it soon along with my new massflow kit, aluminum mandrel bent intercooler pipes and custom 4" plenum,short runner,65-75mm(your choice)throttle-bodied intake manifold.This new intake manifold is bad-***! You can keep all the stock crap(oil separator,idle stabilizer,tps,etc...and even your aftermarket strut brace too).Now you can bolt-on on a really huge turbo without having to worry about hitting the intake manifold.I have some photos of all the new stuff I am working on that I will post soon.
Somebody asked about my engine in one of these posts.Yes it is going to be a 3.0L with custom head work and cam.It should rev up to 8500 rpms.I am also going to make custom headers and crossover pipe(available through me eventually) and bolt up a T-66 or T-70 or T-72 turbo......I havent decided yet.I am also using the new intake manifold with 75 mm throttlebody,Spearco intercooler,big oil cooler,3.5" or 4" exhaust,Tial wastegate,monster fuel system and the new TEC-3 will be in charge of controlling the engine.So that is what is going on with my engine.I didnt even get to whats happening with the rest of my car but I will leave that for another time.
To answer Matts question.....will my shift lever work with the Kokeln ****? If their **** uses 3 allen head set screws to secure it to the lever then it should.
Tim
86 951 http://www.speedforceracing.com
Somebody asked about my engine in one of these posts.Yes it is going to be a 3.0L with custom head work and cam.It should rev up to 8500 rpms.I am also going to make custom headers and crossover pipe(available through me eventually) and bolt up a T-66 or T-70 or T-72 turbo......I havent decided yet.I am also using the new intake manifold with 75 mm throttlebody,Spearco intercooler,big oil cooler,3.5" or 4" exhaust,Tial wastegate,monster fuel system and the new TEC-3 will be in charge of controlling the engine.So that is what is going on with my engine.I didnt even get to whats happening with the rest of my car but I will leave that for another time.
To answer Matts question.....will my shift lever work with the Kokeln ****? If their **** uses 3 allen head set screws to secure it to the lever then it should.
Tim
86 951 http://www.speedforceracing.com
06-29-2001, 04:00 PM
#28
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Keith,
You said,
Look at Pelican parts and check out their 'momo' section. Momo does make a ring to secure the shifter boot to the bottom of the shift ****. I think it will work with the stock boot also you will just have to cut it down to the proper length.
Regards,
You said,
If Kokeln is smart, the will offer a model with a different shaft, to accomodate the stock shifter/boot setup, as no one has had the interest in stepping up to the plate with a proper boot solution for aftermarket **** use (i.e. a ring to install below the **** and attach the boot to in a clean and intentional looking fashion...
Regards,
06-29-2001, 04:22 PM
#29
Drifting
Erick - you'd really want to move the horizontal pivot "arm" UP to shorten your throw. I realise there is only a limited amount this could happen before it would be necessary to bend the shift rod. How much would be necessary to really affect the throw? I don't know, but I don't think it'd be much!
As far as the shift rod goes, man, just twist it and slide it out!
As far as the shift rod goes, man, just twist it and slide it out!
06-29-2001, 04:30 PM
#30
Drifting
Tim - isn't your product just shortened at the top? Lengthening the height of the shift **** would be, like, not doing anything at all to the shifter, right?
If you don't move that pivot, you cannot have a short shift without moving the **** away from the steering wheel (speaking in terms of shifter lever modifications only)
Essentially, you are grabbing the stick lower - not really a shortening of the throw as much as a shortening of the lever...
Perhaps a bend in the rod coupled with an elevated - wait (thought forming) - perhaps a ROD EXTENSION coupled with and elevated pivot arm is the BEST SOLUTION?.....
Then you'd have a reduced throw while maintaining or (If you are really serious) increasing the lever length...
If you don't move that pivot, you cannot have a short shift without moving the **** away from the steering wheel (speaking in terms of shifter lever modifications only)
Essentially, you are grabbing the stick lower - not really a shortening of the throw as much as a shortening of the lever...
Perhaps a bend in the rod coupled with an elevated - wait (thought forming) - perhaps a ROD EXTENSION coupled with and elevated pivot arm is the BEST SOLUTION?.....
Then you'd have a reduced throw while maintaining or (If you are really serious) increasing the lever length...