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Oil: Opening up the can of worms

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Old 03-01-2009 | 09:31 PM
  #16  
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+1

87951
95sl320 dd
Old 03-02-2009 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
So what exactly is all this interesting "fine tuning" supposed to buy you over what you get from simply the following the mfg specs?
What I take from it is that it depends on how you drive. Did you read the section on hot track oils and why its important to change for that (and change back when you get to the street)?

You may be driving right in the mfg specs. Like 99.9% of the public in vehicles, and probably somewhere under 90% of the 944s (remember....78.3% of all statistics are made up on the spot).

But hopefully you get my point. If you're getting what you want to out of the car and don't care any further, it's all good. I'm interested in the edge scenarios here.
Old 03-03-2009 | 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by DarylJ
But hopefully you get my point. If you're getting what you want to out of the car and don't care any further, it's all good. I'm interested in the edge scenarios here.
Fair enough -- I am just yet to be convinced you're on any "edge" -- except in your own mind, of course.

Of course, 99.9% of racing upgrades are sold to people who never approach the driving parameters justifying their specs...

(And probably just as well, as otherwise a lot of businesses woudn't be in business.)
Old 03-03-2009 | 04:06 AM
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Originally Posted by M758
I run 20w50 year round. However my temps range from a worst of maybe 30F to a peak of 120F.

That calls for thicker oil.
Joe, how much oil pressure you get near rev limiter when you track your car?
Old 03-03-2009 | 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by DarylJ
What I take from it is that it depends on how you drive. Did you read the section on hot track oils and why its important to change for that (and change back when you get to the street)?

You may be driving right in the mfg specs. Like 99.9% of the public in vehicles, and probably somewhere under 90% of the 944s (remember....78.3% of all statistics are made up on the spot).

But hopefully you get my point. If you're getting what you want to out of the car and don't care any further, it's all good. I'm interested in the edge scenarios here.
Oiling is both very complicated and very simple. Some people don't want to accept there is a science behind WHY the designers chose a specific type of oil for a particular motor. Oils have changed, our motors have changed... there is something to be said for understanding "Why" something works, so that if you were ever to come across a circumstance that it won't work, you will recognize it, and maybe you can even come across something that works "Better".

Keep doing research, bearone seems to enjoy making pointless statements in threads lately, don't let it bother you.
Old 03-03-2009 | 07:39 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Lorax
Keep doing research, bearone seems to enjoy making pointless statements in threads lately, don't let it bother you.
I guess it depends on whether you basically agree with him or not -- bearone's remarks seem perfectly sensible and to the point -- to me at least.

As for "our engines have changed" -- well, some more so than others. I suspect mine, for example, is still pretty close to original spec. But yeah, horses for courses. If you've got a worn engine, little point in putting in an expensive synthetic...
Old 03-03-2009 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
I guess it depends on whether you basically agree with him or not -- bearone's remarks seem perfectly sensible and to the point -- to me at least.

As for "our engines have changed" -- well, some more so than others. I suspect mine, for example, is still pretty close to original spec. But yeah, horses for courses. If you've got a worn engine, little point in putting in an expensive synthetic...
There were some interesting points in that article, and his very aroogant and condescending attitude of "Everything I need to know is in the owners manual, anything else is bull****" is bound to **** people off.

There are ways to state your feelings about something without being a jerk.
Old 03-03-2009 | 08:22 AM
  #23  
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As Lorax mentioned, lubrication can be a very complicated subject. That is why the manufacturers have given us reccomendations in our owner's manuals. Look it up, and do it. That's all that is required. Your car will perform as designed. If, however, you are not satisfied with the manual and want more information (like Darylj), articles like the one in question provides that. I personnally like to know how things work and why. I always ask why. This is just my make up and the way I am. Just as others are satisfied with the owner's manual. We are all right. Sometimes we spend too much time trying to prove others wrong. Let's get over it. We just have different personalities and views. One thing I believe we all share on this site is the love of our Porsches. This keeps us coming back to post and read over and over again. I really enjoyed the article, saved it to my harddrive and will refer to it if needed, to re-inforce my knowledge about lubrication. Has it affected my choice for oil? I think it has. I was going to run 5W-40 Syn, but I think I will try 0W-40 Syn instead, based on the reccommendations of Dr. Hass. My own decision. You don't have to agree. I doubt my engine will blow because of it, and I'm sure bearone's will be just fine as well. Let's share our views and opinions and learn and grow. Slamming someone because they have different views than you is the cause for a lot of grief in this world. Let's stay positive, drive our cars and have some fun!
Old 03-03-2009 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DarylJ
That being said, I just dropped down to dino 10w40 tonight. I'm going to see what kind of difference it makes. Why?

Most of you should put this thread on ignore right now. I'm just warning you.
Yep, most people probably should. . . but I didn't. Thanks for the link, DarylJ - very interesting article. I've only made it through lesson 3 so far, so I probably haven't gotten there yet - but based on what I've read so far, I'm curious why you chose to go back to mineral vs. synthetic. And I do mean that I'm just curious - not looking to pick a fight!

FWIW, Dr. Haas posts over at Grassroots Motorsports Online (or at least he used to - I haven't been there for awhile). Always wordy, always comes across as a little preachy - but if you can get past that, usually pretty interesting and informative. Like most stuff you see on the interweb, read with a critical mind though, I guess, since unless you know someone personally there's no way to really know what their credentials are.

Thanks again for an interesting link.
Old 03-03-2009 | 09:41 AM
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Same thing came up
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-people-3.html

Joe, I allready asked there about your car oil pressure. You said 4 to 4,5 bar at 5000 and 6000 rpm range.

5000 rpm 50 PSI/ 3,5 bar
6000 rpm 60 PSI/ 4,1 bar
Old 03-03-2009 | 10:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by OntarioTurbo
If, however, you are not satisfied with the manual and want more information (like Darylj), articles like the one in question provides that.
Two things here. a) Why aren't you satisfied with the information in the manual? Simply because it is a conclusion, rather than includes the engineering justifications? b) What makes you think the conclusions reached after reading an article like the one mentioned will be better?

More information does not necessarily lead to better decision making, particularly when the subject at hand is complex, the information is incomplete and decison maker is not an expert in the field.

DarylJ, for example, did not even realise that our engines were in fact designed for synthetic oils. If nothing else, this demonstrates his mastery of this complex subject is _far_ from complete -- in fact, some might reasonably conclude he is completely out of his depth here.

I think it is less likely the engineers at Porsche who had input into the poor maligned users manual were out of their depth on the subject, however. I suspect that they, in fact, probably knew what they were talking about as well as, if not better, than anyone, including Dr Hass.
Old 03-03-2009 | 10:39 AM
  #27  
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After replacing #2 rod bearing twice you want to know how to prevent it.

Mark944na86, can you comment 10 PSI per 1000 rpm rule.

For street daily driving you go with the owners manual and that is it.
Old 03-03-2009 | 10:49 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by LeMans71
I'm curious why you chose to go back to mineral vs. synthetic.
I was on dino 20w50 before. I've never had synthetic in the car. I figured it would be a lot less expensive to play with weights with the dino oil and then go to a synthetic at the same top weight. So, basically, I'm working my way to it. Given limitless money I'd just use the synthetics to play with this.
Old 03-03-2009 | 10:53 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Mark944na86
T
DarylJ, for example, did not even realise that our engines were in fact designed for synthetic oils. If nothing else, this demonstrates his mastery of this complex subject is _far_ from complete -- in fact, some might reasonably conclude he is completely out of his depth here.
Where did you get this idea from?

I suppose you thought that when I discussed some of the tired old arguments found on this forum about oil that I believed them.

You obviously have your panties in a bunch over this thread - understand that there are people interested in this, and you just aren't one of them. It's OK. But it is not OK to continue taking shots at people. Grow up - I doubt you would act like this in person around the same group of people.
Old 03-03-2009 | 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by DarylJ
I didn't have much of an opinion on the synthetic/synthetic should not be used in our cars because the motor wasn't designed for it,
That's where I got that idea.

And who said I wasn't interested in this stuff? On the contrary, I'm sharing my views and experiences on the subject.


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