Tips for working with bondo?
06-11-2002, 10:00 PM
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Three Wheelin'
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Tips for working with bondo?
Well the car is going in for a complete spray job monday. (She really deserves it) Anywho, I decided (mainly to bring the cost down) that I would take care of the little dings prior to respray. I have all the bondo, hardner, and sand paper needed. Any tips before I begin. Something to look out for?
Anything would be greatly apreciated.
Christian
Anything would be greatly apreciated.
Christian
06-11-2002, 11:03 PM
#2
Alsways apply the bondo inlayers no more than 1/4 inch thick. Use as wide a plastic applicator as you can for a repair area.
Apply the filler beyond the the area of the damage and feather it onto the undamaged area.
When you sand, always use a sanding blok and alway use long sanding strokes that extend across the entire filled area. Even in curved areas, use a bendable closed-cell foam sanding block. Avoid using your bare hand on the sandpaper.
Start with heavy wet/dry grit like 150 and work down to 600. ANY sanding marks will show in the paint about 2 weeks after it dries and the paint shrinks.
Good luck.
Apply the filler beyond the the area of the damage and feather it onto the undamaged area.
When you sand, always use a sanding blok and alway use long sanding strokes that extend across the entire filled area. Even in curved areas, use a bendable closed-cell foam sanding block. Avoid using your bare hand on the sandpaper.
Start with heavy wet/dry grit like 150 and work down to 600. ANY sanding marks will show in the paint about 2 weeks after it dries and the paint shrinks.
Good luck.
06-11-2002, 11:36 PM
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also, after you think you have it smooth, just pray a light mist of spray paint on it and let dry. wet sand again. any black spots are low spots.
06-11-2002, 11:57 PM
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Small dings can be removed by working the metal like the "paintless dent removal" guys do.
If you go the bondo route, after you sand out the bondo and have pinholes or small areas to fill you can use some glazing putty or "piranha putty" to finish with. It's lighter than bondo and allows you to fill the small spots easier. After you think it's done, spray over it with contrasting primer and watch the edges and sanding marks come out. Anything you see here will clearly show through the final paint coat if you don't fix it.
At this stage, apply some light heat/hot sunlight or wait a couple days to let all the solvents in the putty/primer flash off and sand/reapply if needed.
If you go down to metal, be sure to use some of that metal etcher/anti-rust stuff on the bare metal spots before spraying or rust may bubble up again in the future. The metal begins to rust soon after if is exposed to air.
Use lots of water when wet sanding to prevent the paper from clogging and streaking the primer.
You may save some money, but you will need to invest lots of time to get good results.
If you go the bondo route, after you sand out the bondo and have pinholes or small areas to fill you can use some glazing putty or "piranha putty" to finish with. It's lighter than bondo and allows you to fill the small spots easier. After you think it's done, spray over it with contrasting primer and watch the edges and sanding marks come out. Anything you see here will clearly show through the final paint coat if you don't fix it.
At this stage, apply some light heat/hot sunlight or wait a couple days to let all the solvents in the putty/primer flash off and sand/reapply if needed.
If you go down to metal, be sure to use some of that metal etcher/anti-rust stuff on the bare metal spots before spraying or rust may bubble up again in the future. The metal begins to rust soon after if is exposed to air.
Use lots of water when wet sanding to prevent the paper from clogging and streaking the primer.
You may save some money, but you will need to invest lots of time to get good results.
