kennycoulter

seems to start doing it when temp gets to half way mark and above.
i used a pressure tester and does not seem to be a leak at the heater valve.
also does not seem to be leaking brake fluid....
so what the heck is going on? i haven't taken my starter out to check for certain if there is any contaminant, but seems ok.

kennycoulter

car did slightly ok last night, i have no signs of anythign on the clutch, nothign leaking out.

the adjustment seems fine as in: lookign through inspection hole, the fork seems to travel quite a bit. when i did the adjustment last summer, i went by measurements and it was exact according to clarks.

i can't imagine if the clutch line has a bubble that the throw would still be large, but i wouldnt imagine that it would still be slightly on the clutch either.

NOW, one thing to consider: i have a few cars that i drive, all of them feel different, and it is hard to remember which one does which when you switch up so often.....but, i can't seem to remember the clutch pedal engaging so far off of the floor, as it does recently.

BUT, wouldn't that mean that it would be engaged longer? and not riding the clutch? and if the clutch had constant pressure on it, wouldn't the pedal grab closer to the floor?

i had everythign apart last august doing driveshaft bearings/ new throwout bearing and clutch fork. overall, the clutch has 30,000 miles on a sachs spring center clutch.
clutch and flywheel were fine in august. slipping seemed to start in january while car was heating up:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...bad-again.html

KuHL 951

Sometimes if the pedal freeplay is not adjusted just right the clutch can slip some when the fluids get hot, I found this out when I did the clutch on the 83 years ago. If there is too little or no freeplay the disc is always right at the verge of slipping. What you have is the opposite of an air bubble in your system; that would prevent the clutch from engaging and shifting but not slip.Try adding a bit more freeplay and see if it helps.

kennycoulter

makes sense, but doesn't mine seem to be adjusted correct, and if it had less freeplay, wouldnt it grab really close to the floor?

KuHL 951

Kenny, think of it like this. With no or negative pedal freeplay the clutch is just a slight touch away from disengagement as it is right at the limit of starting to move the clutch fork. That means the pedal releases and engaging higher not lower on the stroke. Why yours is doing it now is another question I don't have an answer for. All I can say is the disc will suffer premature wear if no freeplay is present and it always has to be adjusted with a new clutch to prevent premature wear. You won't know if you have the correct freeplay unless you actually check it. If your clutch fork starts to move as soon as you touch the pedal it's not right and needs to be adjusted to allow some slack. Does it shift alright otherwise? Even with a rear main leaking it usually won't effect the disc. If you had a heater valve failure it might have soaked the disc but it would have burnt off by now. I'm out of answers after working on the 944S all day...new radiator, hoses, retension TB/BS belts, PS hose, and front wheel bearings. The entire upper radiator was plugged with a birds nest and serious flotsam trapped between the AC condensor and radiator. The original radiator on the DS was leaking at a crimped seam under pressure above 14 psi. Beer time for me!

kennycoulter

i have done 2 radiators that leaked at the same spot.
i understand now....i did readjust after install, but maybe a locknut was tightened enough on the helper spring or elsewhere.
one of the hose clamps that i had "loose" was at the heater valve, but it did not seem to be leaking according to a pressure test.
doesn't seem to be a rear main seal, i replaced that this past summer also, but it seems that my oil pan gasket leak is worse now.
hopefully i will have this figured out tomorrow.

Mike C.

It's easy enough to test for a slipping clutch assuming the car is drivable. Poke along at 30 mph or so in 5th gear and then floor it. It's usually quite obvious if the rpms don't match what is happening on the ground....

kennycoulter

it is definitely slipping, i am tryign to find out why .

DarylJ

Well, Kuhl is right. It might not be the problem in your particular case, but you really don't want engagement up at the top of the pedal. If its too far up there, its like riding the clutch all the time.

Besides, what a crappy way to drive. Lower engagement point=faster shifts. Waiting until the top of your pedal for clutch engagement reminds me of my crappy old '74 F250 plow truck, not a sports car.

Mike C.

Air in the clutch hydraulics will not make the clutch slip- it will make it hard to disengage to shift. I would loosen up the free play - even to the point where it is excessive, to be sure you aren't putting any load on the TO bearing. If the clutch still slips then you know it has to come apart.

kennycoulter

ok,. i did it on a lunch break the other day.
i need to really get in there tomorrow or so and measure everythign and make sure things are good.
the pedal is now grabbing about half way or so.