LeMans71

Had it out of the oil pan so I could drop the pan to do rod bearings and new pan gasket. Now it's back in, but with a significant leak - looks like it is leaking around the electrical connection in the center (which also feels loose). Can it be re-sealed, or should I start looking for another one? I'm aware that there is a delete cover available, but for now I'd like to keep the sender.

Thanks,
Scott

FRporscheman

I didn't know they could leak from the electrical connector. If it were leaking from the outside I'd suggest a new gasket (can buy bulk gasket sheet and cut out a piece, maybe use some gray silicone).

Mine leaks too and I thought it was from the outside. I'd also like to know if the center can be resealed.

LeMans71

Folks weren't exactly falling all over themselves to respond yesterday (thanks FRP, at least I know I'm not alone) so I did a little more research, looking at parts diagrams and trying to remember what the arm on the sender (inside the oil sump) looks like. The arm is rigid and hollow, with a float that slides up and down a pin (and makes or doesn't make a complete circuit, depending on oil level). I don't remember seeing any opening, but there must be one. I know my sump is currently over-full (I put in 8 qts. and haven't run the engine yet to fill the new oil filter) - maybe there's a rivet or some such at the top of the float pin and the oil can leak through since it's too full.

Anyway, if anyone else has run into this and knows the answer, I (we!) would like to know if it's fixable!

FRP - the gasket p/n is 944.101.233.02. Found it under "Instruments and Miscellaneous" on the PP website - I'm sure other vendors have it too. About a buck fifty. A new sender (944.613.150.00) is about $200 (ouch).

FRporscheman

LeMans71 thanks for the gasket info. I wish I knew earlier I could get it so easily. I used some generic gasket paper and cut my own. It was leaking all around, and I thought the paper was junk, but it turns out I was just careless and forgot to tighten the bolts . I cut a new gasket and used hondabond, and tightened to 7 ftlbs so it should stay dry this time.

I did notice one other place oil could leak from. The electrical terminal on the sender has a red o-ring - this might be your issue? I think mine is bad-ish too because the connector was really oily inside.

Wipeout

Is this the same part that's on the turbos (the oil sender)? I didn't realize I had anything down there until I finally changed the oil in my new S2. Didn't realize I had an external oil cooler, either, until I took my batwing off last night,

There are quite a few of the turbo guys that spend more time in the turbo forum than over here. You may want to cross-post over there.

Luis de Prat

I posted recently about the oil level sender replacement on my 951 and, yes, replacement is costly.

When it starts leaking enough, though, the oil level light turns on at start up and will only go out when the car is restarted after the engine reaches operating temperature.