Pulling Manifold / Fuel Rail / Injectors
#1
Three Wheelin'
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I'm going to pull my fuel rail and manifold to replace vacuum hoses and such. While I'm in there, I'm going to pull my injectors and send them off to witchhunter for cleaning.
I think the manifold looks pretty straightforward. The vacuum kit I bought has the new gaskets and I guess from there it's just making sure you don't squash anything under there getting the manifold back on. Any tips/tricks there?
The injectors scare me a bit. I tried getting one of the clips off just to see how difficult it would be and wasn't having any success. I gave up because the last thing I want to do is break one of those and have to replace the entire harness (which does not look like fun). What's the secret to getting those clips off? Everything I read just says 'remove the clips' - but what's the process?
When I put them back in - should I use silicone grease, ATF or something else on the injector? I've read several things from different people on this one.
Anyway, I guess in short what I'm looking for is a good writeup (with pics, hopefully) on how to get the intake, fuel rail and injectors in and out.
Thanks!
I think the manifold looks pretty straightforward. The vacuum kit I bought has the new gaskets and I guess from there it's just making sure you don't squash anything under there getting the manifold back on. Any tips/tricks there?
The injectors scare me a bit. I tried getting one of the clips off just to see how difficult it would be and wasn't having any success. I gave up because the last thing I want to do is break one of those and have to replace the entire harness (which does not look like fun). What's the secret to getting those clips off? Everything I read just says 'remove the clips' - but what's the process?
When I put them back in - should I use silicone grease, ATF or something else on the injector? I've read several things from different people on this one.
Anyway, I guess in short what I'm looking for is a good writeup (with pics, hopefully) on how to get the intake, fuel rail and injectors in and out.
Thanks!
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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LOL, I sat here reading that for about 20 seconds trying to figure out why I needed to take a picture of the injector before removing the metal wire. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
So, it's kinda like the metal wire on that holds the plug on the MAF (that I lost when it flew off while I was trying to get on last night...*sigh*...)
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So, it's kinda like the metal wire on that holds the plug on the MAF (that I lost when it flew off while I was trying to get on last night...*sigh*...)
#4
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I have always pulled the rail with the injectors attached. I use a prybar under it from the left with the tip somewhere on the intake and use a lot wiggling and am very very careful not to bend the rail. Not saying that's right - just what I do.
And then I use ATF on the way in (again, not sure that's right...).
And then I use ATF on the way in (again, not sure that's right...).
#5
Instructor
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I've never actually removed the clips. IIRC the connectors/clipc have two short sides and two long sides. One of the long sides has a split in the metal clip, and the other side has a semi-circular cutout on the plastic connector. You simply squeeze the metal clip down into that semi-circular groove and pull it off the injector.
Edit: Clarks-Garage says "Using a small flat tip screwdriver or probe, disengage the wire clips on the fuel injector electrical connectors plugs and disconnect the plugs. Move the fuel injector wiring harness out of the way."
That sounds like it may be right too: You simply pry up on the clips far enough to get them ove the locking tabs, but you still don't have to take them off.
I think I may have to get me another 944 so I'll be able to verify these (vital) issues with a trip to my garage...
Edit: Clarks-Garage says "Using a small flat tip screwdriver or probe, disengage the wire clips on the fuel injector electrical connectors plugs and disconnect the plugs. Move the fuel injector wiring harness out of the way."
That sounds like it may be right too: You simply pry up on the clips far enough to get them ove the locking tabs, but you still don't have to take them off.
I think I may have to get me another 944 so I'll be able to verify these (vital) issues with a trip to my garage...
#6
Instructor
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If you are going to pull the fuel rails... replace the rubber fuel lines leading to the fuel rail. I just did the exercise on my '83 944 this weekend and ended up with a nice fire under the hood (on top also when the paint got hot enough to catch on fire).
I checked for leaks after I was done, but it took about 20 miles of driving before the fuel lines starting leaking fuel and caught on fire. I'm pretty sure that the fuel lines to the fuel rail failed after having been bent up to remove the injectors. (they were 26 years old...)
Bottom line... I will replace those on my next 944 pretty early in the ownership and right away if I have to pull the injectors or intake manifold...
John S.
I checked for leaks after I was done, but it took about 20 miles of driving before the fuel lines starting leaking fuel and caught on fire. I'm pretty sure that the fuel lines to the fuel rail failed after having been bent up to remove the injectors. (they were 26 years old...)
Bottom line... I will replace those on my next 944 pretty early in the ownership and right away if I have to pull the injectors or intake manifold...
John S.
#7
Three Wheelin'
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Thanks stecz - i saw your previous post about your fire...ahem...*problem*.
No worries - I pulled the factory fuel lines and replaced with the Lindsey kit a couple weeks after I bought the car. So far, so good...
So, you replaced and THEN had the fire? What lines did you use? Did you have them too taught on the regulator and/or FPR? I've looked for leaks almost every time I've driven since I put them on a few weeks ago and haven't seen any problems thus far. The only place I had leak problems was at the splice I made inside the wheel well. I wasn't getting the bolt tight enough for the flange to crimp the existing fuel line and there was a tiny leak coming from that connection. I backed it out, bought a new compression nut/flange and tightened the hell out of it and it's fine now.
No worries - I pulled the factory fuel lines and replaced with the Lindsey kit a couple weeks after I bought the car. So far, so good...
So, you replaced and THEN had the fire? What lines did you use? Did you have them too taught on the regulator and/or FPR? I've looked for leaks almost every time I've driven since I put them on a few weeks ago and haven't seen any problems thus far. The only place I had leak problems was at the splice I made inside the wheel well. I wasn't getting the bolt tight enough for the flange to crimp the existing fuel line and there was a tiny leak coming from that connection. I backed it out, bought a new compression nut/flange and tightened the hell out of it and it's fine now.
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#8
Instructor
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I didn't replace the fuel lines, but should have... what I think happened is that I flexed the hoses a lot more than they had been lately to get the fuel injectors out and it caused a failure...
#9
Resistance is Futile
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Use antiseize on the manifold bolts... and don't forget to reconnect the big hose from the brake booster to the under side of the manifold... btdt.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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Best $80 and 2 hours of time insurance I could have bought apparently. He had a car in the lot that he showed me that burnt up when the OEM line failed. I got home and ordered the Lindsey kit...
Every article I've read that details how to get the rail out specifically says to remove both fuel lines. I've got to take mine out in a week or so to replace all the vacuum lines and I'll definitely pull mine off before removing the rail now.
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