This make removing one look easy.

What's the trick? After chasing it around tapping with a hammer, I tried using the crankshaft gear to help seat it -- no go. Lots of pressure needed to drive this one in, obviously.

I did put some bearing grease on it and around the inner edge of the casing to aid the seal and help ease it in, but it didn't do the trick.

I've now got the seal in the freezer trying to shrink it down enough to fit it in, but what are the tricks?

 

Have you checked the oil pump sleeve gear for a seal groove? Replacement is necessary or it will ruin your new seal.

GL
John_AZ
1988 924S + 1987 924S

 

Yes, I've checked, I've got a groove, and I'm replacing the sleeve.

My problem right now is getting the new seal installed. What are the tricks to install it?

The FSM suggests tool 10-203 (I think) from memory -- basically a big cylindrical pressure pad to hammer the seal in. Even if I had such a tool, hammering might be tricky with the radiator in place.

The other approach I was looking at is pressing it in -- maybe using the crankshaft bolt and some collar, or even the crankshaft gears as a collar?

Anyway, just trying to get some recommendations for an effective method. It's a very tight seal to seat compared to the balance shaft seals.

 

What I did was:
Clean up the crank shaft and make sure the timing belt gear would slide on and off nicely. I tapped in the seal with a hammer to get it started. I turned the timing gear around so the flat side faced out. I got a big arsed socket which gave me clearance over the crank shaft and hammered it in nicely. It took two minutes. Make sure the sleeve is not installed, it just slides in later.

Good luck

 

Here is a DIY tool on post #10. Thanks to onZedge

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=424913

John_AZ

 

Guys,

Thanks for the pointers. That pelican thread makes for interesting reading -- "the original seal OD was 52mm, the replacements seal OD is 52.2mm". Don't know if is true, but it _feels_ like that sucker is just a hair too big. Frustrating, but at least I know how some others have approached the job successfully. Cheers.

 

I put my seal in the freezer that is in my garage and by time I got it out, got under the car and slid it into place and got the hammer it was warm again. I didnt bother freezing it after that. I use big old sockets that I got from harbor freight to install CV joint nuts. Nice and deep. Of the 3 I have done, all of them got a bit sideways on the way in but I got them straight after some carefui tapping. Just dont bend the metal part of the seal.

 

I used a piece of 1.5 " ID PVC pipe and a large washer. I used the crank bolt to slowly press the seal in. Worked perfectly and took about 5 minutes.

 

Interesting! The "crank bolt press" is the approach I'm trying, but I've ruined two new seals this way. What size washer are using? Was the outer diameter greater or less than the outer diameter of the seal?

I've been trying to use washers with a slightly smaller OD, the idea being the washer can press the seal all the way in past flush with the housing. But I'm getting distortion of the seal where the outer rim won't stay flat as it goes in, and so I'm thinking of getting a washer with a larger OD and just pressing to flush.

So it would be great to hear some more detail about your set-up before I ruin yet another seal...