Timing Belt-- Now I'm ILL with this car
06-27-2002, 12:44 PM
#16
Nordschleife Master
Bill,
Really lighten up, Dave was not trying to get us to fix his car for him, he is a really good guy and if you were in the area here in NC you would know he is always offering help to other people. He helped me strip down my burnt 951, he did more than help he lead the process because honestly he is a whole lot better at spinning wrenches than I am. He is also going to take his newly aquired knoledge about the timing belt change and help Hambone out with his swap this weekend (i'll be there as a spectator to cheer everyone on).
We are all here to help eachother, there will be people in life who take advantage of helpful people but dave is not one of those people. Just sticking up for a friend.
Really lighten up, Dave was not trying to get us to fix his car for him, he is a really good guy and if you were in the area here in NC you would know he is always offering help to other people. He helped me strip down my burnt 951, he did more than help he lead the process because honestly he is a whole lot better at spinning wrenches than I am. He is also going to take his newly aquired knoledge about the timing belt change and help Hambone out with his swap this weekend (i'll be there as a spectator to cheer everyone on).
We are all here to help eachother, there will be people in life who take advantage of helpful people but dave is not one of those people. Just sticking up for a friend.
06-27-2002, 01:33 PM
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Max,
I know Bob did not pose the question. He was the one that implied that my response was as you put it "Trite".
I never stated that Dave951M's question was stupid, as I firmly believe that any question is a good question if it helps you to understand something. It is what you do with the answer that makes the difference. Given that, I feel I gave Dave a simple method to follow to assist in his repair.
Remove the cover - Sometimes even a mechanic must remove that which was done, in order to correct a mistake or an error in the order of reinstallation.
Visual check, retension check - Look for an obvious failure...loose bolt on a tensioner, something rubbing. Triple check the tension, this must be done prior to starting to avoid a possible catastrofic failure.
Start engine look listen - with the cover removed it is easy to see what is going on, a pully wabbling, eaiser to hear a failed bearing than listening through a stethescope.
and repair - allways the end goal.
A waist of bandwith? I think not.
To point him in the right direction, again anyone that presents a specific fix without being there is mear conjecture. Could someone on a board in Cleveland have the exact fix, possibly. Will there be a lot of shots in the dark, definately. To keep from getting scattered, to avoid replacing that which did not need repair....the secret is in following a process. A seasoned mechanic is patient, if a problem arises, they dont get frustrated, they just go back in and solve the problem (see post heading).
Finaly all I am GUILTY of is trying to help. I have lately become fed up with those that are ungrateful. I am certainly not all knowing of these vehicles and am quite comfortable with being corrected, but if I can not express my oppinion on what I feel is an unwarranted comment, then I will simply refrain from helping with what I do know.
I know Bob did not pose the question. He was the one that implied that my response was as you put it "Trite".
I never stated that Dave951M's question was stupid, as I firmly believe that any question is a good question if it helps you to understand something. It is what you do with the answer that makes the difference. Given that, I feel I gave Dave a simple method to follow to assist in his repair.
Remove the cover - Sometimes even a mechanic must remove that which was done, in order to correct a mistake or an error in the order of reinstallation.
Visual check, retension check - Look for an obvious failure...loose bolt on a tensioner, something rubbing. Triple check the tension, this must be done prior to starting to avoid a possible catastrofic failure.
Start engine look listen - with the cover removed it is easy to see what is going on, a pully wabbling, eaiser to hear a failed bearing than listening through a stethescope.
and repair - allways the end goal.
A waist of bandwith? I think not.
To point him in the right direction, again anyone that presents a specific fix without being there is mear conjecture. Could someone on a board in Cleveland have the exact fix, possibly. Will there be a lot of shots in the dark, definately. To keep from getting scattered, to avoid replacing that which did not need repair....the secret is in following a process. A seasoned mechanic is patient, if a problem arises, they dont get frustrated, they just go back in and solve the problem (see post heading).
Finaly all I am GUILTY of is trying to help. I have lately become fed up with those that are ungrateful. I am certainly not all knowing of these vehicles and am quite comfortable with being corrected, but if I can not express my oppinion on what I feel is an unwarranted comment, then I will simply refrain from helping with what I do know.
06-27-2002, 01:46 PM
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Ian,
I do not know ether way about Dave. I take your word. I was trying to help. If you look closer, it was BenS comment that I did not like.
If all people are interested in, are quick fix, shots in the dark and not really learning the proccess/design/function so be it.
It is guys like danno, who gives the complete picture/method/function, which teach you the most.
I do not know ether way about Dave. I take your word. I was trying to help. If you look closer, it was BenS comment that I did not like.
If all people are interested in, are quick fix, shots in the dark and not really learning the proccess/design/function so be it.
It is guys like danno, who gives the complete picture/method/function, which teach you the most.
06-27-2002, 02:27 PM
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Now, fellas..
My comment was in part supposed to be humorous, but that sort of thing seems to be out of style nowadays. However, it was also pointing out the somewhat simplistic approach to solving the problem. A noise or vibration from the timing system on a 944 can come from a number of sources; some obvious and simple to take care of, some more difficult and elusive. In an engine, noises can travel from the place where the problem is to a place where it is not. The key is in knowing this can happen. Disassembling the front end of our car's engine is not a simple task. Replacing suspected parts is not cheap. The problem could be as simple as belt tension, or as complex as impending bearing failure in any of the rotating parts. Eliminate the easy ones first, those that do not require total disassembly. If this approach does not do the trick, then begin disassembly and analysis of the individual components. Since the removal and replacedment of items like the water pump require some dexterity, it is not something to be considered until other more accessable parts are thoroughly checked out and eliminated as suspect. That is what I meant. How many posts have been made that read "I have replaced all the parts in the XXX assembly, and the problem is still there?" Obviously, then, the problem was somewhere else.
Sorry for the long response, but sometimes blanket suggestions do not answer the primary question. There are specific procedures that must, in some cases, be followed if one is to avoid unnecessary heartbreak and expense, not to mention bruised knuckles.
Thanx to those who caught the jist of what I was trying to say, and keep in mind my response is not in reference to any one post (or poster). We all have times when something on paper rubs us the wrong way. If I offended someone, I apologize.
Cheers, everyone
Bob S.
My comment was in part supposed to be humorous, but that sort of thing seems to be out of style nowadays. However, it was also pointing out the somewhat simplistic approach to solving the problem. A noise or vibration from the timing system on a 944 can come from a number of sources; some obvious and simple to take care of, some more difficult and elusive. In an engine, noises can travel from the place where the problem is to a place where it is not. The key is in knowing this can happen. Disassembling the front end of our car's engine is not a simple task. Replacing suspected parts is not cheap. The problem could be as simple as belt tension, or as complex as impending bearing failure in any of the rotating parts. Eliminate the easy ones first, those that do not require total disassembly. If this approach does not do the trick, then begin disassembly and analysis of the individual components. Since the removal and replacedment of items like the water pump require some dexterity, it is not something to be considered until other more accessable parts are thoroughly checked out and eliminated as suspect. That is what I meant. How many posts have been made that read "I have replaced all the parts in the XXX assembly, and the problem is still there?" Obviously, then, the problem was somewhere else.
Sorry for the long response, but sometimes blanket suggestions do not answer the primary question. There are specific procedures that must, in some cases, be followed if one is to avoid unnecessary heartbreak and expense, not to mention bruised knuckles.
Thanx to those who caught the jist of what I was trying to say, and keep in mind my response is not in reference to any one post (or poster). We all have times when something on paper rubs us the wrong way. If I offended someone, I apologize.
Cheers, everyone
Bob S.
06-27-2002, 03:11 PM
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Bob,
Peace my brutha!
Unfortunitly given the nature of this media, it is very difficult to tell if someone is joking unless it is extremly well written.
I would like to add a comment on your thoughts:
I am not a mechanic, however I hold a degree in automotive technology (taken at a Ford factory approved asset program). I hold 7 ASE certificates and a smog licence. I do not need to be a mechanic, as I am a highly paid construction professional.
I took these courses because I was tired of the shoddy and expensive repairs from the local shops and its a hobby that I love. The first thing that allways came from my instructors mouths were "KISS" (keep it simple st..id).
EXAMPLE: If the car wont start, go to the end of the system. check the spark plug, if it sparks the entire system is good, move on to the next system. No need to check the computer/sensors/wiring/battery/igintion switch/etc./blah/blah/blah.
If there was NO noise prior to a belt installation, then noise after, no need to check wheel bearings. Check the work that was just done.
It should really be that simplistic. IF you understand the systems, their function and the art of trouble shooting. This is what will truly help Dave solve his problem and limit his frustration.
Peace my brutha!
Unfortunitly given the nature of this media, it is very difficult to tell if someone is joking unless it is extremly well written.
I would like to add a comment on your thoughts:
I am not a mechanic, however I hold a degree in automotive technology (taken at a Ford factory approved asset program). I hold 7 ASE certificates and a smog licence. I do not need to be a mechanic, as I am a highly paid construction professional.
I took these courses because I was tired of the shoddy and expensive repairs from the local shops and its a hobby that I love. The first thing that allways came from my instructors mouths were "KISS" (keep it simple st..id).
EXAMPLE: If the car wont start, go to the end of the system. check the spark plug, if it sparks the entire system is good, move on to the next system. No need to check the computer/sensors/wiring/battery/igintion switch/etc./blah/blah/blah.
If there was NO noise prior to a belt installation, then noise after, no need to check wheel bearings. Check the work that was just done.
It should really be that simplistic. IF you understand the systems, their function and the art of trouble shooting. This is what will truly help Dave solve his problem and limit his frustration.
06-27-2002, 03:34 PM
#21
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As for the noise, I misadjusted the balance shaft idler when I initially installed it and the car had a horrendous whine. It's a 951, so I ended up removing the intercooler tubes and airbox, removing the accessory belts, removing the front belt covers, reinstalling the accessory belts, reinstalling the intercooler tubes and airbox. I started it up, listened with my $10 automotive stethoscope, turned off car, adjusted it, and did this a couple of times. I then removed the intercooler tubes and airbox, accessory belts, reinstalled the belt covers, reinstalled the accessory belts, reinstalled the airbox and intercooler tubes and I was all set.
Kind of a pain in the butt, but it only took an hour all told while jamming to some cranked Zeppelin.
Kind of a pain in the butt, but it only took an hour all told while jamming to some cranked Zeppelin.
06-28-2002, 06:30 PM
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Well, Dave's saga will continue but if we get it fixed this weekend, I'm sure we will post the results as well as that of my 84. Bill, Ian and I are going to seal the front end and replace the water pump, all rollers and belts.
This thread went a little off track due to misinterpretation of someones post. With the exception of just a couple of Users (you know who I'm talking about) all of us on here are here to help, listen, and often just learn through others experience, mistakes, and opinions. I know that unless I'm dealing with one of our favorite duo, I'm going to listen and have fun. You have some good points Bill and Bob and I've watched your posts for some time and learned a lot. I was involved with Datsun Z cars for about the last 12 years but I've never had anyone just offer to help me with a repair(like Dave did) I was unfamaliar with just to be friendly and help another Porsche guy. That is what sets our group apart from all the rest of the auto BBS's. That is just my experience.
Althought I don't post as much as some, I read just about every thread everyday so I can learn. There are things on this board that a manual cant teach and the humor sometimes puts me on my tail. Thanks everyone.
James...
This thread went a little off track due to misinterpretation of someones post. With the exception of just a couple of Users (you know who I'm talking about) all of us on here are here to help, listen, and often just learn through others experience, mistakes, and opinions. I know that unless I'm dealing with one of our favorite duo, I'm going to listen and have fun. You have some good points Bill and Bob and I've watched your posts for some time and learned a lot. I was involved with Datsun Z cars for about the last 12 years but I've never had anyone just offer to help me with a repair(like Dave did) I was unfamaliar with just to be friendly and help another Porsche guy. That is what sets our group apart from all the rest of the auto BBS's. That is just my experience.
Althought I don't post as much as some, I read just about every thread everyday so I can learn. There are things on this board that a manual cant teach and the humor sometimes puts me on my tail. Thanks everyone.
James...
06-28-2002, 07:54 PM
#23
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Back from my job mandated absence.
Bill-- time to profitably spend some bandwidth--
Sorry to hear yall had a bad experience at the barn raising. I would like to point out that not everybody is like what you experienced. As for me, I tend to ask questions of persons more knowledgable than I on a particular model car when I encounter something I can't quite fathom, especially when the cost of bad decisions is so high. This is a case in point. In my experience with domestic cars, it is entirely within the realm of possiblity to get a "bad" rebuilt waterpump. I wanted to track down that possiblity and to "poll the audience" of experienced Porsche wrenches of other possibilities before proceeding. At no point did I ever ask the "which roller is making the noise, pulezee" type of question. I am looking for the possiblities that others have experienced with a similar problem. This type of knowledge is invaluable in troubleshooting. The consequences for a wrong step with a timing belt can be severe. I have also seen bad rebuilts with Fiats. (I was a Fiat wrench back in the early 80's. Still have most of my SnapOn stuff.) My hobby interests have always included cars, starting with stuff like helping my father do the brakes on our 63 Falcon. I try to learn from others and will gladly teach what I have learned. It helps to preserve the institutional knowledge for mechanics to pass what they know to younger wrenches.
As for looking for the "quick fix"-- if someone else has been there, done that, why shouldn't I profit from that person's experience? If I can save someone else trouble in a similar manner, I'd gladly do it. I have been into the front of this engine, there is nothing mystical about it, it is very similar to a Fiat in most respects. (Ever seen what can happen if the aux shaft in a 124 Spyder is off time??) I do not subscribe to the Darwinian learning method, hence help when you can because someday, you'll need help too. I have my suspicions what is causing the noise, I want to know if anything else could be a culprit too, (thanks for the phone info Keith. I will run it down tonight.)
As for trusting the factory manual-- all of you who have the cd copy of the manual, look in the torque tables for the crank bolt value. You'll find that it is 145ft/lbs. A professional wrench in Charlotte showed me his originals and it calls for 175. Think I trust the manuals??? Great guide but open for debate, I trust the judgement of guys like Bill Swart at Stuttgarht Haus in Mooresville and that of Jim Burton at Eurowerks in Charlotte and Keith Walters, who works with Jim. In my time as a professional wrench, I found that there are always shortcuts found by those who work on these cars every day. I would like to profit from their knowledge.
Keith- You and Jim and Bill at SH have been a wealth of knowledge and I highly value you guy's opinions. If I can ever help likewise, I would be more than happy to. BTW- check Jim's 944 factory manual in the torque tables. I didn't believe it myself, however, I DO trust Jim's experience and judgement.
I can look at what has been posted in a couple of ways-
1>The Rennlist is one of the best resources on the web, especially in light of what I have noticed in the factory manual discrepancies. But, given the bad experience of some folks, they pop off without all the facts, nor thinking things through. I would like to chalk it up to immaturity and bad experiences of the person/s in question. No blood no foul.
2>The Rennlist is comprised of some self righteous wannabe wrenches, bent on guarding the secrets of sacred Porsche knowledge, that they would go to any lengths to discourage discourse before passing the torque wrench, letting others make big, expensive, easily avoided mistakes to reinforce thier inflated opinion of thier own self worth.
I would like to choose option one. I wasn't at the "barn raising" so I can't speak to those events, if you still think that I have a similar attitude to the subject of your bad experience, then you judge me unfairly. I try to take a reasoned methodical approach to the problem, but would like to have an idea of where I'm headed before I start taking things back apart. In that vein-
It isn't crud on the belts, they're new, the rollers are new and I am type A about cleaning while I'm doing work.
It may be a loose timing belt, doubt it, but will recheck (6th time).
It may very well be the b/s idler roller adjustment.
Unlikely to be a bad rebuilt pump, not ruled out yet. I haven't reved the engine, don't want to fry the t belt and bend valves. This is the last option, hope I didn't get Herr Murphy's waterpump.
See you tomorrow Ian and Jim.
Dave
Bill-- time to profitably spend some bandwidth--
Sorry to hear yall had a bad experience at the barn raising. I would like to point out that not everybody is like what you experienced. As for me, I tend to ask questions of persons more knowledgable than I on a particular model car when I encounter something I can't quite fathom, especially when the cost of bad decisions is so high. This is a case in point. In my experience with domestic cars, it is entirely within the realm of possiblity to get a "bad" rebuilt waterpump. I wanted to track down that possiblity and to "poll the audience" of experienced Porsche wrenches of other possibilities before proceeding. At no point did I ever ask the "which roller is making the noise, pulezee" type of question. I am looking for the possiblities that others have experienced with a similar problem. This type of knowledge is invaluable in troubleshooting. The consequences for a wrong step with a timing belt can be severe. I have also seen bad rebuilts with Fiats. (I was a Fiat wrench back in the early 80's. Still have most of my SnapOn stuff.) My hobby interests have always included cars, starting with stuff like helping my father do the brakes on our 63 Falcon. I try to learn from others and will gladly teach what I have learned. It helps to preserve the institutional knowledge for mechanics to pass what they know to younger wrenches.
As for looking for the "quick fix"-- if someone else has been there, done that, why shouldn't I profit from that person's experience? If I can save someone else trouble in a similar manner, I'd gladly do it. I have been into the front of this engine, there is nothing mystical about it, it is very similar to a Fiat in most respects. (Ever seen what can happen if the aux shaft in a 124 Spyder is off time??) I do not subscribe to the Darwinian learning method, hence help when you can because someday, you'll need help too. I have my suspicions what is causing the noise, I want to know if anything else could be a culprit too, (thanks for the phone info Keith. I will run it down tonight.)
As for trusting the factory manual-- all of you who have the cd copy of the manual, look in the torque tables for the crank bolt value. You'll find that it is 145ft/lbs. A professional wrench in Charlotte showed me his originals and it calls for 175. Think I trust the manuals??? Great guide but open for debate, I trust the judgement of guys like Bill Swart at Stuttgarht Haus in Mooresville and that of Jim Burton at Eurowerks in Charlotte and Keith Walters, who works with Jim. In my time as a professional wrench, I found that there are always shortcuts found by those who work on these cars every day. I would like to profit from their knowledge.
Keith- You and Jim and Bill at SH have been a wealth of knowledge and I highly value you guy's opinions. If I can ever help likewise, I would be more than happy to. BTW- check Jim's 944 factory manual in the torque tables. I didn't believe it myself, however, I DO trust Jim's experience and judgement.
I can look at what has been posted in a couple of ways-
1>The Rennlist is one of the best resources on the web, especially in light of what I have noticed in the factory manual discrepancies. But, given the bad experience of some folks, they pop off without all the facts, nor thinking things through. I would like to chalk it up to immaturity and bad experiences of the person/s in question. No blood no foul.
2>The Rennlist is comprised of some self righteous wannabe wrenches, bent on guarding the secrets of sacred Porsche knowledge, that they would go to any lengths to discourage discourse before passing the torque wrench, letting others make big, expensive, easily avoided mistakes to reinforce thier inflated opinion of thier own self worth.
I would like to choose option one. I wasn't at the "barn raising" so I can't speak to those events, if you still think that I have a similar attitude to the subject of your bad experience, then you judge me unfairly. I try to take a reasoned methodical approach to the problem, but would like to have an idea of where I'm headed before I start taking things back apart. In that vein-
It isn't crud on the belts, they're new, the rollers are new and I am type A about cleaning while I'm doing work.
It may be a loose timing belt, doubt it, but will recheck (6th time).
It may very well be the b/s idler roller adjustment.
Unlikely to be a bad rebuilt pump, not ruled out yet. I haven't reved the engine, don't want to fry the t belt and bend valves. This is the last option, hope I didn't get Herr Murphy's waterpump.
See you tomorrow Ian and Jim.
Dave
06-28-2002, 09:39 PM
#24
Race Director
Dave, a couple of things I noticed that may help.
1) The timing-belt and balance-shaft belt tension pulleys are adjusted in opposite directions. One is turned counter-clockwise and the other is clockwise. This is to maximize the wrap around the water-pump and balance-shaft sprocket. Using the incorrect rotation may allow you to set tension correctly, but will put more load on a smaller surface-area of the belts, leading to slipping and/or noise.
2) The freewheeling roller that sits above the balance-shaft belt idler-pulley should have equal gaps to the belt on the upper and lower surfaces. This pulley isn't an eccentric adjuster like the tension pulleys. It can rotate and slide on the bolt, so you can get the upper and lower gaps just right.
I vaguely remember someone else having noise problems and it turned out to be crud on the back of the timing-belt that was causing slipping. He also mentioned that the ribs of the belt could easily be felt on the smooth side as well. Replacing that belt with the official Porshe one (thicker?) solved his noise problems.
1) The timing-belt and balance-shaft belt tension pulleys are adjusted in opposite directions. One is turned counter-clockwise and the other is clockwise. This is to maximize the wrap around the water-pump and balance-shaft sprocket. Using the incorrect rotation may allow you to set tension correctly, but will put more load on a smaller surface-area of the belts, leading to slipping and/or noise.
2) The freewheeling roller that sits above the balance-shaft belt idler-pulley should have equal gaps to the belt on the upper and lower surfaces. This pulley isn't an eccentric adjuster like the tension pulleys. It can rotate and slide on the bolt, so you can get the upper and lower gaps just right.
I vaguely remember someone else having noise problems and it turned out to be crud on the back of the timing-belt that was causing slipping. He also mentioned that the ribs of the belt could easily be felt on the smooth side as well. Replacing that belt with the official Porshe one (thicker?) solved his noise problems.
06-28-2002, 09:51 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
To add a bit to Danno's post. It is possible to get teh lower balance shaft adjuster out by 180 degrees. The tension will be ok it is just the adjuster is out 180. If this is the case it can come into contact with the cover. It might cause a noise.
Here's a photo I just too from my car. The adjuster is in the correct position. Visualize it rotated 180 degrees towards the fender.
Alan
Here's a photo I just too from my car. The adjuster is in the correct position. Visualize it rotated 180 degrees towards the fender.
Alan
06-28-2002, 11:27 PM
#26
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Balance shaft idler adjustment.
I followed Keith's method, essentially the same as yours Danno. I used an .020 feeler guage, close to .5mm, to set the distance. By the book, the top clearance should be 1mm. That was allowing the belt to flap against the idler making the noise. Did recheck the t belt for the 7th time, was right on the money, ran the car w/o balance shaft belt, no noise, problem localized. Followed Keith's methodology, problem solved, nothing broken, item not in book learned.
I can see how it is very possible to get these rollers on incorrectly, especially the b/s idler and tensioner. I followed the pix from this site, Blazack, and the factory manual to be sure about the orientation and position. The solution was the idler adjustment.
There is another potential booboo area for a novice wrench here that I haven't seen mentioned. The nuts that lock the pulleys into place are one sided. The flat side must go flush to the pulley to get a true torque value. Put it with the curved side to the pulley and the torque doesn't generate the correct amount of friction to lock the pulley into place. See Alan's pix above, it's very clear the correct way to put on the nuts.
Thanks for all of the suggestions, hope to have time to drive the wee beastie this weekend like it was meant to be driven.
Dave
I followed Keith's method, essentially the same as yours Danno. I used an .020 feeler guage, close to .5mm, to set the distance. By the book, the top clearance should be 1mm. That was allowing the belt to flap against the idler making the noise. Did recheck the t belt for the 7th time, was right on the money, ran the car w/o balance shaft belt, no noise, problem localized. Followed Keith's methodology, problem solved, nothing broken, item not in book learned.
I can see how it is very possible to get these rollers on incorrectly, especially the b/s idler and tensioner. I followed the pix from this site, Blazack, and the factory manual to be sure about the orientation and position. The solution was the idler adjustment.
There is another potential booboo area for a novice wrench here that I haven't seen mentioned. The nuts that lock the pulleys into place are one sided. The flat side must go flush to the pulley to get a true torque value. Put it with the curved side to the pulley and the torque doesn't generate the correct amount of friction to lock the pulley into place. See Alan's pix above, it's very clear the correct way to put on the nuts.
Thanks for all of the suggestions, hope to have time to drive the wee beastie this weekend like it was meant to be driven.
Dave
06-28-2002, 11:38 PM
#27
Race Director
Good going Dave! Amazing how such a little adjustment can lead to such frustration, eh? Anyway, what was your final measurements for that idler pulley?
06-29-2002, 12:29 AM
#28
Nordschleife Master
[quote]Originally posted by Joe R.:
<strong>Odd... it posted here instead of another thread lol.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Very odd, .......... you konw that means you'll have belt troubles in the near future. I hope you threw some salt over your shoulder
<strong>Odd... it posted here instead of another thread lol.</strong><hr></blockquote>
Very odd, .......... you konw that means you'll have belt troubles in the near future. I hope you threw some salt over your shoulder
06-29-2002, 12:51 AM
#29
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Danno-
Keith and Jim use .020 clearance to the balance shaft spocket, 0 (just touching) to the belt with no deflection of the belt. Makes sense and shouldn't cause a problem that I can see and doesn't make noise.
We'll get Hammbone's car squared away tomorrow. Sunday, Ian and I are picking up a 931 and 924S, dragging them back in the morning. I'm thinking of PCA club racing with the 931, haven't decided for sure yet, ought to be an interesting experience.
Again, thanks for the info guys.
Dave
Keith and Jim use .020 clearance to the balance shaft spocket, 0 (just touching) to the belt with no deflection of the belt. Makes sense and shouldn't cause a problem that I can see and doesn't make noise.
We'll get Hammbone's car squared away tomorrow. Sunday, Ian and I are picking up a 931 and 924S, dragging them back in the morning. I'm thinking of PCA club racing with the 931, haven't decided for sure yet, ought to be an interesting experience.
Again, thanks for the info guys.
Dave